Types of sway control

[chrispitude]

Hi all,

Here is my understanding of the different fundamental types of hitch sway control:

Friction:
Resists movement equally at any turn angle (Equal-i-zer, Andersen)

Return-to-center (proportional):
Force toward center is applied, roughly proportional to angle away from center (Blue Ox SwayPro)

Return-to-center (cam):
Force toward center is applied as some function of angle from center, as determined by cam profile (Reese Dual-Cam)

Geometric:
Uses 4-bar linkage to constrain lateral/rotational movement between TV/TT (Hensley Arrow, ProPride)

I am curious if I'm missing any other fundamental types of sway control. Thoughts?

[Vintage465]

Hannibal wrote:
The trunnion is the knuckle that fits into the head rather than the round bar type that slides up into the head. Mine was simply a Reese High Performance trunnion style WDH with integrated cams in the spring bars. This would allow me to buy and install the sway control arms that would have made it a Reese HP Dual Cam WDH. I was real close to doing just that when I happened upon the barely used Equalizer 4 Point on eBay available locally. I chose the no drill, made in USA Equalizer.

And probably quieter too!

[Hannibal]

The trunnion is the knuckle that fits into the head rather than the round bar type that slides up into the head. Mine was simply a Reese High Performance trunnion style WDH with integrated cams in the spring bars. This would allow me to buy and install the sway control arms that would have made it a Reese HP Dual Cam WDH. I was real close to doing just that when I happened upon the barely used Equalizer 4 Point on eBay available locally. I chose the no drill, made in USA Equalizer.

[Vintage465]

Hannibal wrote:

Vintage465 wrote:

Hannibal wrote:

chrispitude wrote:
Thanks all. The reason I ask is that I'd like to understand how different hitches feel.

I've personally owned and used the following setups:

• 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD + Rockwood 2605 + Hensley Arrow
• 2006 Toyota Tundra regular cab + North Trail 21FBS + ProPride 3P

Both hitches handled and felt incredibly well in all conditions. Even with the short wheelbase on the CRD, there wasn't the slightest perceptible sway, ever.

These days, I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL Denali, which is simply a half-ton Suburban in sharper digs. We're planning to buy a Jayco Jayfeather X23F this fall. As much as I'd love the one-finger confidence of a 4-bar linkage hitch again, it's probably overkill on this setup.

I was planning on using a Blue Ox SwayPro, but I've read of nervousness on-center due to no forces applied there. That got me wondering how different sway control approaches feel - on the highway, in town, backing into campsites, etc.

What hitch do you use, and how does it feel?

etrailer's opinion based on experience.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-116001.html

I towed our 32.5' Jayco with our F250 without sway control for a year using our Reese HP trunnion style WDH. Never a sway problem but occasional push from a crosswind and passing trucks. I recently found a barely used Equalizer 4 point 10k. This hitch took all the push out of passing trucks and crosswinds that we've encountered since. "I" put a little marine grease on the L brackets to keep it smooth and quiet. Grease on the sockets at the head is required as is spelled out in the owner's manual as is torqueing the socket bolts to 65ft/lbs. After towing with this hitch, I'd buy another without hesitation.

Doing a little reading: A Reese Trunnion style hitch is "self centering" right? Meaning it has integrated sway control as part of it's design. So you actually are towing with sway control as part of the W.D. system. So I think a more correct way to describe your system is you don't have additional sway control added.

Negative sir.

OK then, I'll accept that correction. However, upon further investigation, I find that Reese apparently calls many of their W.D. hitches Trunnion style, whether self-centering or not..........likely due to the attaching/pivot point design......
Regardless, I am in the camp of sway control whether added or integrated. I can tell if my sway control isn't installed when I tow. Not hugely, but I can tell. And like yours appears, mine is a well sorted out ride/tow.

[Hannibal]

Vintage465 wrote:

Hannibal wrote:

chrispitude wrote:
Thanks all. The reason I ask is that I'd like to understand how different hitches feel.

I've personally owned and used the following setups:

• 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD + Rockwood 2605 + Hensley Arrow
• 2006 Toyota Tundra regular cab + North Trail 21FBS + ProPride 3P

Both hitches handled and felt incredibly well in all conditions. Even with the short wheelbase on the CRD, there wasn't the slightest perceptible sway, ever.

These days, I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL Denali, which is simply a half-ton Suburban in sharper digs. We're planning to buy a Jayco Jayfeather X23F this fall. As much as I'd love the one-finger confidence of a 4-bar linkage hitch again, it's probably overkill on this setup.

I was planning on using a Blue Ox SwayPro, but I've read of nervousness on-center due to no forces applied there. That got me wondering how different sway control approaches feel - on the highway, in town, backing into campsites, etc.

What hitch do you use, and how does it feel?

etrailer's opinion based on experience.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-116001.html

I towed our 32.5' Jayco with our F250 without sway control for a year using our Reese HP trunnion style WDH. Never a sway problem but occasional push from a crosswind and passing trucks. I recently found a barely used Equalizer 4 point 10k. This hitch took all the push out of passing trucks and crosswinds that we've encountered since. "I" put a little marine grease on the L brackets to keep it smooth and quiet. Grease on the sockets at the head is required as is spelled out in the owner's manual as is torqueing the socket bolts to 65ft/lbs. After towing with this hitch, I'd buy another without hesitation.

Doing a little reading: A Reese Trunnion style hitch is "self centering" right? Meaning it has integrated sway control as part of it's design. So you actually are towing with sway control as part of the W.D. system. So I think a more correct way to describe your system is you don't have additional sway control added.

Negative sir.

[Vintage465]

Hannibal wrote:

chrispitude wrote:
Thanks all. The reason I ask is that I'd like to understand how different hitches feel.

I've personally owned and used the following setups:

• 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD + Rockwood 2605 + Hensley Arrow
• 2006 Toyota Tundra regular cab + North Trail 21FBS + ProPride 3P

Both hitches handled and felt incredibly well in all conditions. Even with the short wheelbase on the CRD, there wasn't the slightest perceptible sway, ever.

These days, I have a 2006 GMC Yukon XL Denali, which is simply a half-ton Suburban in sharper digs. We're planning to buy a Jayco Jayfeather X23F this fall. As much as I'd love the one-finger confidence of a 4-bar linkage hitch again, it's probably overkill on this setup.

I was planning on using a Blue Ox SwayPro, but I've read of nervousness on-center due to no forces applied there. That got me wondering how different sway control approaches feel - on the highway, in town, backing into campsites, etc.

What hitch do you use, and how does it feel?

etrailer's opinion based on experience.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-116001.html

I towed our 32.5' Jayco with our F250 without sway control for a year using our Reese HP trunnion style WDH. Never a sway problem but occasional push from a crosswind and passing trucks. I recently found a barely used Equalizer 4 point 10k. This hitch took all the push out of passing trucks and crosswinds that we've encountered since. "I" put a little marine grease on the L brackets to keep it smooth and quiet. Grease on the sockets at the head is required as is spelled out in the owner's manual as is torqueing the socket bolts to 65ft/lbs. After towing with this hitch, I'd buy another without hesitation.

Doing a little reading: A Reese Trunnion style hitch is "self centering" right? Meaning it has integrated sway control as part of it's design. So you actually are towing with sway control as part of the W.D. system. So I think a more correct way to describe your system is you don't have additional sway control added.

[BarneyS]

It used to be that Airstreams were just about the only ones using a Hensley. You may be right about my dealer since we live not too far from the manufacturer of both hitches.

If I were a dealer, I would make sure I was able to move and service all the rigs that came into my facility. It doesn't take much effort to weld/clamp a receiver tube onto the forks of a forklift or onto the rear hitch of a tug right alongside the the ball.
Barney

[RinconVTR]

BarneyS wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:
Snip...Comment on dealers and the HA/PP, its true. How do you think they can move your trailer with their fork lift having that contraption attached to the coupler? They cannot.

I always leave my stinger in the hitch when leaving my trailer. The dealer has a receiver tube either welded or clamped to the fork of his forklift. He has no problems at all moving it around. I suspect others do the same.
Barney

You're lucky! And/or you have a dealer who frequently see's the Hensley and Propride installed more often than most. Airstream dealers!

[chrispitude]

RinconVTR wrote:
There really is no comparing any "Return to center" and "Friction" based WDH to the Hensley and Propride because they do not change the mechanics of the pivot point (hitch ball).

The Hensley and Propride are the ONLY WDH option that mechanically change the pivot point of the trailer (projecting it forward = virtual pivot point projection).

This is exactly why I was trying to classify hitches by function, then characterize how they would feel - to see *how* they would differ from a pivot-projection hitch and which I could "step down" to. But I think I now realize that they are different, and I will notice, and I wouldn't be happy compared to what I'm used to.

[BarneyS]

RinconVTR wrote:
Snip...Comment on dealers and the HA/PP, its true. How do you think they can move your trailer with their fork lift having that contraption attached to the coupler? They cannot.

I always leave my stinger in the hitch when leaving my trailer. The dealer has a receiver tube either welded or clamped to the fork of his forklift. He has no problems at all moving it around. I suspect others do the same.
Barney

[RinconVTR]

BarneyS wrote:

chrispitude wrote:
Snip... As much as I'd love the one-finger confidence of a 4-bar linkage hitch again, it's probably overkill on this setup.

snip...

If you can afford the cost then I don't think it is overkill at all. A small trailer can really whip a larger tow vehicle around under the right circumstances. If it were me, I would get another Hensley and tow comfortably under all conditions and without worry.
Barney

Agree as well.

There really is no comparing any "Return to center" and "Friction" based WDH to the Hensley and Propride because they do not change the mechanics of the pivot point (hitch ball).

The Hensley and Propride are the ONLY WDH option that mechanically change the pivot point of the trailer (projecting it forward = virtual pivot point projection).

They both have problems and can be a serious PITA! But they are in a class of their own and incomparable to other WDH's.

Comment on dealers and the HA/PP, its true. How do you think they can move your trailer with their fork lift having that contraption attached to the coupler? They cannot.

[BenK]

Hey Don...I'm way older than you, so have an excuse for a memory lapse... :B

Maybe wasn't you, but do remember you were involved in that discussion

Oh well...seems to be lost moment in time... 🙂


PS....wanted a 1 ton full sized, +12 seat, 4x4 Van, but no OEM makes that...so bought the next best thing...my K3500 Suburban

Don and I have the same rear axle, which GM also puts in the 1 ton dually of the same year.

GM rates it 6,000 lb GVWR on mine, Don's slightly different. AAM who supplies the bare axle assembly (no brakes, springs, etc) rates it at 10,000 GAWR and why tongue'n cheek refer to mine as a K3500...plus ordered the F60 option, which is the snow plow prep option for $67 bucks...begets 1 ton front springs...

[BurbMan]

Well, I have had the OEM GM receiver fail...on the HA itself, I have had the bronze sleeve where the spring bars go crack, I have had a jack tube fail, and misc other parts wear out....but nothing I can recall that was a failure underway that prevented the HA in projecting its pivot center. Maybe refresh my memory, I have had this thing for 16 years now....

[BenK]

Burbman posted years ago something that has always been in the back of my mind in regards to the HA/PP system...

That there is scenario where he broke one or more of the 'pins' of his HA...to then lose it's ability to project the pivot center.

Never found the time, nor was interested in a HA/PP anyway...but now that this is in discussion...anyone ?

[chrispitude]

Good job, guys. You have me reconsidering. 🙂

I wonder how the Denali's rear air suspension will handle a heavier tongue weight? It's currently got an Arnott conversion setup on it - no electronic Autoride, but still with the auto-level.

In the past, both the Rockwood and North Trail dealers have grumbled about having to move a HA/PP-hitched trailer around for service. Should they? Of course not. Do they? Yep.

And I admit, the prospect of not having to lug that heavy stinger around was pretty nice...