Upgraded F150 tires to E

[philh]

Probably nothing to most of you... but i put new tires on the F150 and went with Michelin Defender LTX, which comes in both D & E, I chose the E. I don't recall what tire the truck had, somebody had suggested it was B range... but IDK.

I'm only towing a 5k trailer, but what a difference this tire upgrade made. Used to be if a semi blew past me at 10 over my speed, or a full size truck at 20 over my speed (65mph), I'd feel a little wiggle. NOTHING, NADA, now! There's also less bounce with and without the load leveling bars.

Without a trailer, the tires are slightly noisier, and slightly rougher ride.

We're doing a big trip soon, and while the old tires with 50k miles on them still had lots of wear left, I didn't want to tow the trailer a long distance and possibly in snow with those tires.

[BenK]

Philh

Consider treating your new tires with 303. I purchase it by the gallon and use it on anything rubber/synthetic/etc.

DO NOT use it on your seat, you'll slide all over the place...even when seat belted

Even have my tire mechanic spray it on the insides and outsides of all new tires. Let them sit for a few days, then mount them

Great and been using it for decades after finding out how Armorall works (yuk) from the N Cal Michelin rep. Ditto warning from the Bridgestone rep. They won't warranty any tire that has had ArmorAll treatment. This back in the 90's...wonder if they still have that policy...

https://www.goldeagle.com/product/?fwp_applications=tire-care

https://www.amazon.com/303-30320-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00L4TF32G/ref=asc_df_B00L4TF32G/?...

[BenK]

One weighs more, costs more, has thicker cords, etc... why?

Nothing wrong with either and recommend following your OEM TV's information, recommendations....just note that going to a different spec, you are re-engineering and must do your own homework

Suggest reading the information on the below link that is written in non-techie language

https://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311494/lt-or-p-metric-tires-for-light-trucksuv-applications

[Grit_dog]

Of course there will be naysayers for upgrading to LT tires from P or XL on a 1/2 ton.
Some reasons valid, like it's absolutely not necessary if you're hauling within the limits of the current tires.
Others pure conjecture, like ride quality. Stiffness of the tire and how it affects ride is about 99% the amount of pressure in the tire and 1% the load rating of the tire. Apples to apples size and tire model of course. Sure sidewalls are a bit stiffer, lower the psi a bit from what you were running in the light duty tires = same ride.
Loss of mileage is pure bs, apples to apples. If anything fuel mileage would go up a shade, but is likely indiscernable either way. Generally harder tread compound and that all encompassing "stiffer sidewall" makes for a tire that rolls easier. Regardless, tracking fuel mileage down to the penny and taking it for more than what it's worth, which is a good approximation only "if" you're tracking very accurately and attempting to account for every varied condition.
Example, been checking mileage and tracking on the odometer on one vehicle we have becasue the gas gauge is suspect. Been around 14-14.5mpg. Last tank, I filled, and checked was just over 15mpg. No surprise, except that the vehicle had slightly taller, slightly wider and considerably more aggressive tread than previously. And they're LT tires vs the Ps that were on it. Explanation? Nope. Seems it varies unless you're doing a carefully controlled test even though the vehicle was doing the same duty in general.
The advantage though, unless you're again, calculating $/mile of tire life down to the penny, is tire life. A lot of LT tires have greater tread depth than their P or XL rated versions of the same tire model and the tread compound is a little harder, which equals longer tire life.
Is it as much longer as the cost difference? Yes, no , maybe. Do you run your tires to exactly 3/32 and change them regardless of weather, driving conditions, Big O having a sale, etc? Probably not, but the fact that they last longer cannot be debated.

[Cummins12V98]

philh wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Most likely the same but get your truck weighed loaded and unloaded to get the best performance out of that great upgrade!

What am I looking for to set tire pressure?

Search your tire size and load range “inflation chart”. Every one has one.

[BenK]

Find the tire load inflation table you like...or go with what someone says that you like our want to hear

Here are a few

https://www.michelintruck.com/michelintruck_en_us/assets/pdf/load-and-inflation.pdf

http://www.yournexttire.com/trailer-load-inflation-chart/

https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf

These are just guides and applies to the center of the bell curve of users

[philh]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Most likely the same but get your truck weighed loaded and unloaded to get the best performance out of that great upgrade!

What am I looking for to set tire pressure?

[Cummins12V98]

babock wrote:

philh wrote:
Currently at max tire sticker, 35 psi. I'll go ahead and boost before our long trip.

Your tire sticker only applies to the OEM tire.

Most likely the same but get your truck weighed loaded and unloaded to get the best performance out of that great upgrade!

[JIMNLIN]

I've went with a D or E tires on a couple of 1/2 ton trucks....but always went back to P tires mainly because of higher costs and loss of mpgs. I never saw any better tow/hauling/handling advantages over the OEM P tires with a 44 psi or 51 psi ratings.
Now years ago passenger tires were rated up to 32 psi so a LT C was a good choice.

I use the wifes '16 1500 chevy 4wd crew cab short bed pulling a 10k car hauler (8820-9460 lbs on the trailers axles) with blue tractor/loader/BB with a cab.... 11' 10" tall. No issues at all with the 17" OEM P tires 31.2" diameter at 44 psi even in 35-38 mph side winds.

[mbopp]

I went from "P"s to "E"s on y '12 F150. Big difference, they took all the squirm and wriggle out.

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

🙂 Hi, My 2014 F-150 came with load range "C" LT tires. Door sticker says to run 40 lbs front and rear. Max cold pressure for these tires is 50 lbs. When towing my trailer I leave my front tires at 40 lbs. and raise my rear tires pressure to 50 lbs. Works perfect. No need to go to "E"s.

[babock]

philh wrote:
Currently at max tire sticker, 35 psi. I'll go ahead and boost before our long trip.

Your tire sticker only applies to the OEM tire.

[philh]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Don’t be a bonehead and run full 80psi. Weigh loaded and unloaded. Use weight inflation chart for your tires. Add 5 psi to rear and 10 to fronts.

You will get best ride, tread wear and stopping.

Currently at max tire sticker, 35 psi. I'll go ahead and boost before our long trip.

[Cummins12V98]

Don’t be a bonehead and run full 80psi. Weigh loaded and unloaded. Use weight inflation chart for your tires. Add 5 psi to rear and 10 to fronts.

You will get best ride, tread wear and stopping.

[BenK]

Glad you noticed the difference

Not just weight carry rating, but stronger/stiffer/etc sidewall and the rest of the carcass

Only part of the reason class "P" tires used on trucks, RMA recommends (require) a min 9% de-rating of the sidewall molded ratings

The rest of the suspension also matters. Like wheel ratings...off-set, PSI & Weight. If course, the tire OEM recommended rim width range (bead to bead)

Finally, PSI requirements are different between these 2 classes if tires for equivalent weights

When going next class higher, also note that the tire PSI sensors may NOT be rated for the PSI's required