Using a 2.5" to 2" reducer with WD Hitch

[Walaby]

So the new TV I just bought has a Class V hitch (2.5" receiver), and my WD hitch is for Class IV (2"). I decided to buy a reducer for $12 from Amazon. Part came in today and it says Warning: Do not use with WD equipment". Guess I really didn't think there would be an issue, as long as I don't try to exceed the ratings for a Class IV hitch (which I am way under anyways).

So, I guess a question to the group. Is anyone using a reducer to accommodate a Class IV hitch used with a Class V receiver? Is it safe/okay to use as long as I don't exceed the Class IV weight ratings?

I suppose I can go to my dealer and get a Class V hitch for my setup. Haven't checked that option to see if they have one in stock.

Mike

[N-Trouble]

Have a 2012 GMC 2500HD with factory reducer. When I pulled my old bumper pull I never had any issues or even a bit of sound. With the trailer disconnected you could move the hitch head around a bit but once the WD bars are (properly) applied everything is under tension and doesn't clank around at all. At least that is my experience.

[Walaby]

Today I was shopping around for a replacement Class IV hitch. Stopped by one truck accessory shop, and the guy there suggested instead of replacing the hitch, that he could drill a hole in the bottom of the current Class V hitch, through the reducer, and into the actual shank. He would then weld a nut and would use a bolt/nut combo to take the slack/slop out of the reducer and shank.

I thought that was interesting. I don't think I want to go that way, I would prefer just to replace the hitch. But, wanted to get y'alls thought on that. He said he has done it multiple times for various customers, and would charge me $50 to do it.

Mike

[mkirsch]

At least with the reducer sleeves I've seen for sale:

Take the reducer and slide it over the shank. Notice that it doesn't cover the entire length of the shank.

Slide the reducer into your receiver tube. If you stick it in short end first the long end sticks out. If you stick it in long end first the short end doesn't come out to the end of the receiver.

That's the perfect recipe for SLOP. With everything chucking around, holes get wallowed out, and the sleeve gets wallowed out.

[CampingN_C_]

I used the adapter for one trip and my pin lock was bent a good bit. It also had a lot of play in it.
On a side note I just ordered a 2 1/2 shank from Amazon for $109 free shipping. It was $149 just a few days prior to me ordering so kind of watch it.

[Walaby]

Well, I initially bought a 2.5" shank but didn't have enough drop. Couldn't find one with more drop to accomodate the trunion style WD hitch. So, I bought a 2" shank with enough drop. Used the OEM provided reducer, and got my WD hitch all setup properly. But, I don't like the sloppiness of the reducer. I think Im just going to get a Class IV (2") hitch. I'll keep the Class V just in case I ever need it, but the extra sloppiness introduced by having to use the reducer, I just don't like.

Thanks for all the inputs guys

Mike

[drittal]

Somebody asked this on etrailer...

https://www.etrailer.com/question-65919.html

[Need-A-Vacation]

Like Smltown, I never found a reduced weight rating in the manual when using the factory GM adapter.

My crazy thinking is that since the aftermarket adapters do not perfectly fit in the factory receiver that is why there is a reduction in the rating or even the do not use warning.

When we bought our new trailer, as part of the deal we got a 2.5" shank for the wdh to eliminate the need for the adapter sleeve.

Good luck!

[Walaby]

Yeah, I'm gonna go to the local dealer first to see if they have a 2 1/2 inch shank. If not, I will order one.

I do have the OEM sleeve/reducer.. found that today. But, I think I'd rather just go with a new shank. The one that hondavalk linked to looks like it should do the ticket. 2 1/2 inch receiver but the shank where the head mounts is still 2" or whatever.

Thanks guys

Mike

[Hondavalk]

I realize it would be more money but I would just buy a new 2-1/2" shank and be done with it.

http://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=2.5%22+weight+distribution+shanks&furl=-pg-Accessories_and_Parts

[Lynnmor]

There have been reports of hitch pins bending with the sleeve. The 1/4" gap around the 2" shank is taken up with the sleeve that only acts as a locator. The load is on the shank and receiver and they are more than 1/4" apart.

[Smltown96]

My new 2016 Sierra Denali HD came with a factory reducer. Seems to fit well and I didn't read any restrictions in the manuals. Hope I am good to go!

[Walaby]

Thanks for the heads up on that Bob. Im going to setup my hitch for the new truck with the reducer, so I can make sure I know how much of a change I need before I run to the dealer. Unfortunately, I forgot to take measurements on my old truck before I traded it in. My Ram 2500 sits significanly higher than my Sierra did.

Didn't think about what impact going to a 2.5 inch shank might have on the hitch head. I think this one from Amazon might be what you're talking about. It says fits 2.5 inch receiver openings, but appears to accommodate the 2" head (looking at the description further.

Amazon hitch

Mike

[Bob_Olallawa]

I use a 2 1/2 inch hitch shank that reduces to fit the hitch head. There were two sizes available when I bought so check the hole pattern for the proper rise you need.

[camperforlife]

My factory supplied reducer is no longer perfectly square and will now only insert one way. The hole for the pin has elongated as well. I just ordered a new Blue Ox Swaypro with the 2.5 shank with the purpose of ditching the sleeve. The sleeve is a band-aid fix, get the proper sized shank if possible.

[Walaby]

Yeah, I planned on heeding the warning, but figured I'd check to see if anyone else was using one. The part I ordered was "manufactured" by Curt, so I thought.. hey, that's obviously a decent company. But, it was really made in China. It's not welded or anything, it's a solid piece.

Think Im going to just go to my local dealership where I bought the trailer and probably just get me a 2.5" hitch and do it right, or maybe buy a reducer from them that will work for WD hitches. I also have the concerns about sloppiness. I don't like that even with the regular, non WD hitch.

I'll check in the hidden compartments to see if I've got an OEM one still. This one, I can still use for the regular, non WD hitch whenever I need it.

Mike