Using Weber 120 with RV Propoane

[Cecilt]

My RVQ is getting a little worn and I have a Weber 120Q in the basement that I could easily use. However, I refuse to use those green bottles. We camp every weekend and I use the BBQ everynight so using the built in propane hose that attaches to my RVQ is very convieneint.

With that said, can I outfit the Weber to accept the RV connector. Do I need to remove the Weber's regulator? Where do I get the parts and is it a simple DIY. tks

[Ron3rd]

chuckftboy wrote:
It seems propane really confuses some people. LP actually stands for Liquid Propane not Low pressure. The extend a stay installs between the shut off valve and the regulator on the on board tank. When connecting the grill the hose simply feeds from the on board tank to the regulator on the grill but this is not low pressure gas, it is tank pressure, maybe 120 psi on a hot day. The only "low pressure" is after a regulator around 11.3 psi.

That's how I did it on my old trailer and it works great. With the supplied tee and hose it's a simple way to hook up your bbq. The only reason I changed the setup is my new trailer has the quick connect.

EXTEND-A-FLOW KIT

[chuckftboy]

It seems propane really confuses some people. LP actually stands for Liquid Propane not Low pressure. The extend a stay installs between the shut off valve and the regulator on the on board tank. When connecting the grill the hose simply feeds from the on board tank to the regulator on the grill but this is not low pressure gas, it is tank pressure, maybe 120 psi on a hot day. The only "low pressure" is after a regulator around 11.3 psi.

[Ron3rd]

allen8106 wrote:

Cecilt wrote:
My RVQ is getting a little worn and I have a Weber 120Q in the basement that I could easily use. However, I refuse to use those green bottles. We camp every weekend and I use the BBQ everynight so using the built in propane hose that attaches to my RVQ is very convieneint.

With that said, can I outfit the Weber to accept the RV connector. Do I need to remove the Weber's regulator? Where do I get the parts and is it a simple DIY. tks

The hose noted at the link below will work. It's the same one I use for my Weber Q220.

http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Mr-Heater-5-Propane-Hose/Regulator-Assembly-F273710&i=447302&str=propane+hose&merchID=4005

Link to Hose

Yes, that hose will work if you leave the regulator on the Weber and run the Weber of an external tank. The quick disconnect setup is different parts.

[allen8106]

Cecilt wrote:
My RVQ is getting a little worn and I have a Weber 120Q in the basement that I could easily use. However, I refuse to use those green bottles. We camp every weekend and I use the BBQ everynight so using the built in propane hose that attaches to my RVQ is very convieneint.

With that said, can I outfit the Weber to accept the RV connector. Do I need to remove the Weber's regulator? Where do I get the parts and is it a simple DIY. tks

The hose noted at the link below will work. It's the same one I use for my Weber Q220.

http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Mr-Heater-5-Propane-Hose/Regulator-Assembly-F273710&i=447302&str=propane+hose&merchID=4005

[Ron3rd]

Pineapple Kid wrote:
The Weber's in Europe work on the European campgaz bottles at low pressure
( the gas lines are held to the fittings with screw clamps )
However ask Weber over in the USA and they say NO NO don't take the regulator off it is dangerous??
They are both identical BBQ's

I'm sure Weber would advise against altering their bbqs in any way for liability reasons. Taking the regulator off "could" be dangerous if you were not taking regulated gas off the trailer tanks. Most quick connects are after the trailer's regulator so the Weber is still receiving regulated gas just like your fridge and stove. I have read that some quick connects are not regulated and deliver high pressure gas from the tanks in which case you would leave the regulator on the Weber.

[Pineapple_Kid]

The Weber's in Europe work on the European campgaz bottles at low pressure
( the gas lines are held to the fittings with screw clamps )
However ask Weber over in the USA and they say NO NO don't take the regulator off it is dangerous??
They are both identical BBQ's

[Ron3rd]

Jim & Betty wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
Here's how I did the conversion on my Weber Q:

Weber Conversion


BTW, like Jim posted above, some members have left the regulator on and are satisfied with the performance. Some members have reported lower flame and BTU outlet with the regulator on and claim the bbq does not get as hot. The fitting to replace the regulator was so cheap I went that route.

I should add something here about the lower flame I do think that does happen but it does not bother my cooking. I do ribs, steak, tri-tip and burgers and dogs. The reason I know that the flame is just slightly or appears to be less is I have a Weber on the porch and it is using the 20 lbs cylinder. But even with that the flame is still low.
Heck I am ready to BBQ you bring the beer.

JimR

I agree Jim, and I don't think the slightly lower flame would be noticeable to most people. What kind of beer?

[Ron3rd]

Cecilt wrote:

Ron3rd wrote:
Here's how I did the conversion on my Weber Q:

Weber Conversion


BTW, like Jim posted above, some members have left the regulator on and are satisfied with the performance. Some members have reported lower flame and BTU outlet with the regulator on and claim the bbq does not get as hot. The fitting to replace the regulator was so cheap I went that route.

Thanks for the additional information. Maybe it's hard to tell from the picture but the Calore part 401153 looks like something screws into it. If I remove the regulator from the Weber I will need a fitting that screws onto the threaded metal pipe. tks

You're correct, and that's why you need that little 1/8" pipe to 1/8" pipe coupler (NPT) I referred to at the end of my post. Got mine at Lowes as indicated. You don't need this fitting if you go with jr's post I also added as he put a ball valve where the regulator goes. I didn't add the ball valve on the Weber as my trailer has one.

The coupler I got is from Lowes under Watts part number LFA-706 for about 3 bucks.

[Community Alumni]

Ron3rd wrote:
Here's how I did the conversion on my Weber Q:

Weber Conversion


BTW, like Jim posted above, some members have left the regulator on and are satisfied with the performance. Some members have reported lower flame and BTU outlet with the regulator on and claim the bbq does not get as hot. The fitting to replace the regulator was so cheap I went that route.

I should add something here about the lower flame I do think that does happen but it does not bother my cooking. I do ribs, steak, tri-tip and burgers and dogs. The reason I know that the flame is just slightly or appears to be less is I have a Weber on the porch and it is using the 20 lbs cylinder. But even with that the flame is still low.
Heck I am ready to BBQ you bring the beer.

JimR

[Cecilt]

Ron3rd wrote:
Here's how I did the conversion on my Weber Q:

Weber Conversion


BTW, like Jim posted above, some members have left the regulator on and are satisfied with the performance. Some members have reported lower flame and BTU outlet with the regulator on and claim the bbq does not get as hot. The fitting to replace the regulator was so cheap I went that route.

Thanks for the additional information. Maybe it's hard to tell from the picture but the Calore part 401153 looks like something screws into it. If I remove the regulator from the Weber I will need a fitting that screws onto the threaded metal pipe. tks

[Ron3rd]

Here's how I did the conversion on my Weber Q:

Weber Conversion


BTW, like Jim posted above, some members have left the regulator on and are satisfied with the performance. Some members have reported lower flame and BTU outlet with the regulator on and claim the bbq does not get as hot. The fitting to replace the regulator was so cheap I went that route.

[Community Alumni]

I have the webber BBQ and it has its regulator on it and I connect it to my RV after the main regulator and it woks just fine. I did not need to remove the regulator on the BBQ. There was an article in one of the GS publications that stated that the main propane regulator operated at 11 inches. It also stated that some appliances that have there own regulator such as stove tops or other appliances were made to run at a lower pressure than 11 inches so to remove one of hose IMO would run more pressure through that appliance than it was designed for. As I said my works fine using a quick connect after the regulator.

JimR

[silvercorvette]

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[Tachdriver]

PenMan wrote:

Cecilt wrote:

Tachdriver wrote:
I had the sidekick grill with a QD adaptor connected to a hose which was QD'ed to the trailer fitting.

My TT had the two bottles, the regulator going to the QD fitting. When I replaced the grill I removed the fitting from the sidekick and installed it on the weber, and yes I had to remove the regulator, it works and is hot as I need it.

If you have a class "A" or "C" you may need other fittings that I am not familiar with.

Others mentioned getting a small propane bottle but that defeats the purpose of using your 60-150 pounds of propane you are carrying around. Too bad I didn't take pictures.

This sounds like the plan. I currently have the quick connect attached to the propone hose that I pull out of the TT wall to connect to my Sunbeam Sidekick grill. So all I have to do is remove the male fitting from the Sidekick, remove the regulator from the Weber and screw the male connector onto the Weber and call it a day??? Sounds too easy? Have to missing something or more importantly a part. If so, I'll pick up a stand for the Weber and I'll be good to go.

This will do the trick. Since you already have the fitting from the Sidekick you don't need to buy anything (except the stand if desired).

It was that easy, just remember the fittings are brass and to remove the valves from both grills so you don't do damage to the valve body or the fitting you are trying to salvage. They used a sealant so it did not come out easy, take your time, put the old valve body in a vise and use tape on the fitting you want to protect.

Be sure to use plumbers tape on the threads you want to install to ensure a good seal.

When I fired it up I thought that it was not hot enough but the cast iron soaks and maintains a good temperature and never got flare ups.

You will enjoy this grill.:D