Weak Brakes

[climb_on]

I have a 2020 No Boundaries travel trailer with a Lippert torsion axle w/ 15" wheels. The brakes are pretty weak even with the camper empty. I've towed numerous campers so I understand how the brakes should feel. I have my controller maxed out and on max boost. I just gave a quick visual inspection and there are no obvious issues. How do I figure out what is going on? Some sort of voltage test?

I bought the camper used, so it's not a thing for the dealer.

[colliehauler]

JIMNLIN wrote:
Good ideas to work on.
Another is many trailer mfg use some type of clamshell wiring connectors. Over time and miles water corrodes those connections to the point proper amps doesn't reach the magnets even though a dwell meter says 12v.

When I was on the road and put a new or used trailer in service the first thing I did was R&R the brakes/bearings/suspension and removed all clamshell connectors and bad or smallish wiring. I soldered all joints and made them water proof as much as possible. This ensures full amps from the controller to all the brakes.

That's a good suggestions that I will implement. Never did care for the quick connects. Will solder the joints and shrink wrap the wire connection. Will check my wire gauge at the same time.

[B_O__Plenty]

On my last trailer they never worked well. Checked and all of them were grease covered since new. Replaced all four backing plates complete along with the grease seals. Adjusted them up and tried tem out. Still didn't work well. I did some reading on the Dexter site and explained how to burnish them. Did about 20 stops to seat them in and burnish them. Unbelievable difference! I reommend that to everyone.
B.O.

[ScottG]

MitchF150 wrote:
Dunno on your trailer, but my 2019 Rockwood has auto adjusting brakes, which is new to me compared to my old 2003 Prowler..

On the drive home, it didn't seem to brake all that well. Raised my gain to 10, but only traveled about 5 miles home (yes, my dealer is only 5 miles from my house)

Read the manual for the axles/brakes and found that they are "auto adjusting". Kinda like drum brakes on older vehicles when you go in reverse and hit the brakes, they adjust on their own..

After my first long trip with the new Rockwood, I manually hit the brakes from time to time and found they were getting stronger and stronger and was able to reduce the gain on the BC.

Went on the next trip and did just normal braking, and all seems fine.

Again, just my experience with it on my rig.. I've not manually adjusted anything yet, but might check some things out before heading out this season, just to look on the new rigs setup, since it's all new to me too..

Good luck!

Mitch

Yeah, they work great unless some bone-head uses an adjuster that's meant for the other side. Then the brakes auto-loosen until it all falls apart and things grind themselves into oblivion.
So if one brake doesn't seem to hold an adjustment, it might be worth it to the OP to check. I could actually see it through the adjustment hole.
Once assembed correctly, they do work well though.

Scott

[wnjj]

Mike134 wrote:

JIMNLIN wrote:
Good ideas to work on.
Another is many trailer mfg use some type of clamshell wiring connectors. Over time and miles water corrodes those connections to the point proper amps doesn't reach the magnets even though a dwell meter says 12v.

When I was on the road and put a new or used trailer in service the first thing I did was R&R the brakes/bearings/suspension and removed all clamshell connectors and bad or smallish wiring. I soldered all joints and made them water proof as much as possible. This ensures full amps from the controller to all the brakes.

Ironic you mention the self stripping electrical connectors because this weekend pulled the camper out from alongside the house and had no brakes.
It was that type of connector that failed.

If you’re referring to Scotchlok, they are worthless for critical things like brakes, IMO. Our flatbed trailer brakes failed because of those also. I soldered and taped everything after that.

Regarding wire gauge: That’s a biggie. The flatbed used what looked like 16 or 18 gauge and the brake controller never got more than 1/2 of the LED’s to light. I assumed half was normal for a single axle since the controller can also run 2. Then I added brakes to our little cargo trailer. The kit came with the heavy, double shielded, paired brake wire. All of the LED’s lit up and I had to back the controller way off.

[dodge_guy]

SDcampowneroperator wrote:
Check the brake magnets with a magnetic compass to see if they are working. Simple test, pull the dynamite switch at the tongue then go to each wheel with your compass. is should point qiuickly at the wheel.

That will tell you if you have voltage at the wheels but not how strong the magnets are.

[dodge_guy]

climb.on wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
My 07 had a similar problem. My issue ended up being weak magnets in the brake assemblies! I replaced those and the braking was unbelievable!!!! Between the truck and trailer it would stop very well.
Just something else to check.

How did you determine that? Or did you just swap out the part and found it worked?

I did all the basics first. Swapped out the brake controller for my spare, then I checked the 7 way on the the truck. And then the trailer. Although I knew it was the trailer because my previous trailer didn’t have a braking issue. Then I checked the connections at the box on. The frame where the 7way umbilical goes into and then the brakes at the wheels. When I pulled the breakaway switch the brakes barely held. So I checked the magnets. They were wired up properly. So for $50 I ordered 4 new brake magnets. I installed them and had to burnish them! (Properly seat them to the drums, just like you would with new brakes). After about 20 miles of brake use they were ready to go. Unbelievable how much better it stopped. Stopped even better than with my previous lighter trailer!

Years later when I did the brakes I installed new self adjusting brake assemblies. After a test drive it still stopped very good.

[Mike134]

JIMNLIN wrote:
Good ideas to work on.
Another is many trailer mfg use some type of clamshell wiring connectors. Over time and miles water corrodes those connections to the point proper amps doesn't reach the magnets even though a dwell meter says 12v.

When I was on the road and put a new or used trailer in service the first thing I did was R&R the brakes/bearings/suspension and removed all clamshell connectors and bad or smallish wiring. I soldered all joints and made them water proof as much as possible. This ensures full amps from the controller to all the brakes.

Ironic you mention the self stripping electrical connectors because this weekend pulled the camper out from alongside the house and had no brakes.
It was that type of connector that failed.

[babock]

You have to burnish your brakes before they will start working well. Mine didn't work that great until I burnished them.

To burnish the brakes drive at around 40 MPH and use the manual brake activation knob and use it to slow down to 25. Repeat 20 times allowing the brakes to cool before each application.

[MitchF150]

Dunno on your trailer, but my 2019 Rockwood has auto adjusting brakes, which is new to me compared to my old 2003 Prowler..

On the drive home, it didn't seem to brake all that well. Raised my gain to 10, but only traveled about 5 miles home (yes, my dealer is only 5 miles from my house)

Read the manual for the axles/brakes and found that they are "auto adjusting". Kinda like drum brakes on older vehicles when you go in reverse and hit the brakes, they adjust on their own..

After my first long trip with the new Rockwood, I manually hit the brakes from time to time and found they were getting stronger and stronger and was able to reduce the gain on the BC.

Went on the next trip and did just normal braking, and all seems fine.

Again, just my experience with it on my rig.. I've not manually adjusted anything yet, but might check some things out before heading out this season, just to look on the new rigs setup, since it's all new to me too..

Good luck!

Mitch

[msmith1_wa]

Have they been like this since you picked up the trailer.

When I bought mine the brakes worked as they should initially, but over time they got weaker. I took them apart and three of the four were covered in grease. Before someone mentions it I had not added grease using the eazylube grease fitting. This was from the factory grease job.

[time2roll]

Put your DC clamp-on ammeter on the wire to the brake while your buddy manually applies the brake controller. You should see about 3 amps at each wheel. Too high is a short, too low is a bad connection.

And yes by all means adjust the brakes and eventually remove the drums for inspection. Does the trailer have those grease fittings on each hub?

[Grit_dog]

Adjustment, magnets, contamination in that order.
But brand new trailer, my money is on the first one.

[SDcampowneroper]

Check the brake magnets with a magnetic compass to see if they are working. Simple test, pull the dynamite switch at the tongue then go to each wheel with your compass. is should point qiuickly at the wheel.

[Lwiddis]

X2, Flute Man.