2 dead 120v outlets

[yankee_camper]

Need some help here. 1990 Coachman 5th wheel. Doing some renovations I unhooked all 3 of my 120v outlets. Completed the work hooked the outlets back up and only one of them work. the 2 that don't are connected and on the same wall. All 3 are on the same breaker. I've manually switched the breaker and the GFCI in the bath is not tripped and it's on a different circuit anyways???????????? I have taken the outlets down to check the connections and put a volt meter to them and there is no juice on either set of wires.

[myredracer]

Wayne Dohnal wrote:
The instructions require using the outlet back to push the wires into the insulation displacement contacts.

Interesting and glad you posted that! Thanks for the installation instructions link too. The instructions are very good and should really help anyone installing an SCD.

I just bought 6 new Pass & Seymour ones and you can't use the back as you say to push wires in.

I also have a Wirecon SCD that I just pulled out of our new TT. (Am replacing white ones with black). Have not seen a Wirecon SCD before until I pulled one out. When you look at the cover, it's obvious that you can push the wires in with it. Don't know how well it works or how easy it is. Seems to be a better design as you can't put the cover on unless the wires are in place correctly.

If anyone is looking to buy SCD receptacles, I'd try and get the Wirecon ones.

[old_guy]

only 20 beers. no wonder you couldn't find the problem

[MEXICOWANDERER]

16 hours of head scratching, about 20 beers


A victimless occasion, perhaps? Looks like you were anything but apoplectic.

"One of a kind fitting. Fell from car while working beneath while raised on a hoist. Customer tapping foot. Magnets, lights, hands and knees. A couple of unbelievably frustrating hours..."

It fell into my shirt pocket down past a Carhartt vest.

[Wayne_Dohnal]

I installed one of the SCD outlets a few weeks ago. The instructions require using the outlet back to push the wires into the insulation displacement contacts. The manufacturer sells a tool for it, but if you're careful you can use a clamp and/or pliers to do the job. It took quite a lot of force with 12 awg wire. This is with a Wirecon device, others could use a different procedure of course. Instructions are here http://www.hubbell-wirecon.com/literature/InstallationGuide.pdf.

[Old-Biscuit]

I have a permanent flat spot on my forehead from whacking myself when that uh moment happens :B

WE ALL DO!

[yankee_camper]

Well we have a winner in the idiot category...ME. Fixed,found the issue. The 1 outlet that was/is working was in fact supposed to be strung to the other outlets. I guess when I disconnected it I must have buried the wire feeding the 2 dead outlets in the wall. Just went out to look and yup there it was . I hope no one was in earshot of me 'cause I called myself every name in the book and even made up a few new ones. 16 hours of head scratching,about 20 beers and the embarrassment of putting on-line later problem solved. Thanks for the help once again Bisquit. I'm slowly learning that sometimes it's the most obvious thing that you over look!

[myredracer]

Pretty hard for an indoor receptacle itself to "go bad" unless it's really been abused. It is most likely a bad connection or a GFCI hidden somewhere.

If you are pretty sure it's not a GFCI somewhere, then I think you need to look at your connections on the receptacles. I've looked around the internet to find some info. on terminating the wires on SCDs without the tool for them, but haven't found anything. Some people hate these things because they are unfamiliar with them and don't have the patience that's needed.

If you are having trouble with connecting the wires to the receptacles, maybe the following will help.

Assuming you have the RV SCD type receptacles in the above photo, it is a bit tricky to push the wires onto the metal "fingers". You'd have to be rather ham-fisted to break a #14 ga. copper wire, or you could using too small a screwdriver that is damaging the wire. You need to ensure that the wires in the first romex cable that you push into the slots go right to the bottom. The bottom of the slot has a hole that the wire should sit snugly into.

The first two cables you install on the SCD are relatively easy. The third is the hardest (if you have 3) and you must ensure that you have all 3 wires (hots, neutrals and grounds) are pushed down as far as they can onto the fingers. Otherwise the wires in the 3rd cable may not make a good/proper connection and may not hold in place. You have to have the plastic cover on the back firmly pushed in place so that it secures the romex.

There is a correct tool for terminating wires onto SCD receptacles. You can use a screwdriver to push the wires down *if* you are very careful. The tip of the blade can't be too big or too small. I push the wire down with the screwdriver dead center on the finger to get the wire started. You have to be VERY careful that you don't spread the fingers apart which will cause a bad connection. Then I push it down a little on each side until it's down, and I do the other one at the same time (alternating pushes) so nothing gets strained. You should visually confirm that the wire (first one) has bottomed out so there is room for the following wires. I helps to have the face of the receptacle pushed against a piece of 2x4 or 1x4 so it's not going to move around or damage a wall or cabinet finish or the receptacle itself. You may want to have a helper hold the wood in place, especially if working in an awkard location. You could also try needle nose pliers if the tip is large enough and undamaged. Only exert enough force on the screwdriver or pliers at first to get the wire onto the finger. Be patient and don't try and ram a wire all the way home with one push.

I would use your voltmeter and test each receptacle as you move along on the circuit.

It is even possible that wires were never connected properly to an SCD receptacle at the factory (RV). I found this in the first TT we owned with the first and only receptacle I pulled out to relocate it. Not very good odds.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I cannot see or smell electricity. A non contact AC power detector is worth it's weight in gold in a situation like this. They are inexpensive and when used to their potential can detect even an open neutral.

[RoyB]

The RV thin PINCH TYPE 120VAC outlets are known to cut the wire into after the initial install. The pinch puts a big crease in the wire and just alittle handling of it will break into on you... An AC Voltmeter should tell you the story here...


Also there should be more GFCI outlets in your trailer. I have three in mine - One at the kitchen sink, One in the bath room and a third one at the wash up sink in the bedroom. Anywhere you can come into contact with water is usually a spot for the GFCI type outlets...

My OUTSIDE outlet is paired off the kitchen GFCI outlet...

Roy Ken

[newman_fulltime]

your not wiring into your first plug correctly or the plug is bad

[Old-Biscuit]

yankee camper wrote:
Even though all 3 outlets are on the same breaker the one that is working isn't connected to the 2 dead ones. They are currently disconnected from the outlets but I can't get any reading on the wires with my meter.

If all three are on same circuit breaker then they have to be 'daisy chained' one to another.

[enblethen]

Check for a second GFCI receptacle.
Check out put of the GFCI receptacle. The feed through function could be bad.

[yankee_camper]

Even though all 3 outlets are on the same breaker the one that is working isn't connected to the 2 dead ones. They are currently disconnected from the outlets but I can't get any reading on the wires with my meter.

[Old-Biscuit]

Go back to first one in string that has power to it......then if wires are properly connected power should go out of it to next outlet and then onto the last outlet in string

Could be faulty first outlet, bad wiring connection.