30amp surge protector on 50amp line

[cmarkj]

Quick search here turned up nothing.
Am getting a new trailer. It’s set up for 50amp but doesn’t have the 2nd AC unit installed. Has the 50amp cord. Without the 2nd AC, I wouldn’t think that the RV would routinely pull more than 30 amps. My question is, can I use my 30amp surge suppressor or do I need to get a 50amp?

[pianotuna]

Cummins12V98,


The Sola Basic is listed in my signature.

It is able to handle 4000 watts--which makes it a great match for a 30 amp RV. They do make a unit that has two legs for use on a 50 amp RV, too--but I don't know the specifications.

I use it a lot in cold weather to get the most from my electric heaters. As you probably know the power varies by the square of the voltage.

[StirCrazy]

cmarkj wrote:
Quick search here turned up nothing.
Am getting a new trailer. It’s set up for 50amp but doesn’t have the 2nd AC unit installed. Has the 50amp cord. Without the 2nd AC, I wouldn’t think that the RV would routinely pull more than 30 amps. My question is, can I use my 30amp surge suppressor or do I need to get a 50amp?

I would get a 50 amp then if you use reducers put them on that. when I am in a 50amp campground I still plug directly to 50 amp through my surge protecter so I can use the ac and microwave at the same time, or the microwave and toaster or what not. the price difference between 30 and 50 amp protecters isn't a lot.

also if you have a auto change over switch in the unit, make sure they install a proper 50 amp one... they pulled a fast one on me as they didn't have a 50amp in stock and it was 3 months later when it burnt out, so they had to put a proper one in for free.

[Cummins12V98]

pianotuna wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
My lowest voltage is 93. The Autoformer takes care of that. I do use some surge.

I have an AutoFormer but I don't think it will boost 93 volts to an acceptable voltage for some devices.

Hi,

Mine is a Sola Basic with 3 levels of boost and 2 of buck. At 93 volts it brings it to about 118 volts.

"AutoFormer" most people will think about HUGHES AutoFormer. Saying your AutoFormer will boost 93 to acceptable levels is fine but with some clarification adding Sola Basic that is not a HUGHES.

Personally having 93 volts would make me a bit concerned about the overall potential for damage.

Nice you have something that will boost that much!!!

[pianotuna]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
My lowest voltage is 93. The Autoformer takes care of that. I do use some surge.

I have an AutoFormer but I don't think it will boost 93 volts to an acceptable voltage for some devices.

Hi,

Mine is a Sola Basic with 3 levels of boost and 2 of buck. At 93 volts it brings it to about 118 volts.

[Cummins12V98]

pianotuna wrote:
My lowest voltage is 93. The Autoformer takes care of that. I do use some surge.

I have an AutoFormer but I don't think it will boost 93 volts to an acceptable voltage for some devices.

[pianotuna]

My lowest voltage is 93. The Autoformer takes care of that. I do use some surge.

[ScottG]

Just a note that the delay can be adjusted from 2.5~3 minutes to 10~15 seconds. The longer delay is good for protecting air conditioners from having a locked rotor start-up but if that delay is built into the air conditioner or its thermostat, you can set it to the shorter delay as I have done.

[wa8yxm]

Chum lee wrote:
Hummmmmmmmmmmm! Please educate me if incorrect. My understanding of most inline surge protectors is that they protect YOUR electrical system (especially very sensitive electronic components) from externally generated surges (power company or line voltage) not internally generated surges. Your in house fuses and circuit breakers do that.

External surges could be the result of lightning strikes on conductors, transformers, switch gear, or high demand loads which turn on/off outside your system, remote transformers coming on/going off line due to power company (grid) requirements, etc.

Chum lee

There are two types of "Surge Protectors" The most common is nothign of the sort but does a decent job on spikes caused by Motors shutting off (or starting) and not all that near lightening strikes.

These spikes generally last 1/60 second or so give or take about half (1/120 to 1/30 second) A true surge lasting more than a second.. And BANG the MOV's sound like firecrackers on July 4. (Been there. Heard that).

So if you plug into what looks like a TT-30 but is a 240 volt outlet. Or your hired electrician/friend electrician looked at the TT-30 (This really happened in a store I was visiting.. Thankfully I was visiting and pointed out the "125 volt maximum" label on the outlet) well BANG goes your low end Surge Guard and ZZZZOOOOTTTTTT all your expensive stuff.

Now a Progressive Dynamics HW-30/50 C or PTX 30/50C or the Southwire/TRC Surge Guard equivlent.

These do not just have an Indicator light or 3 they have actual readouts that show VOLTAGE and Current (On the remote if hard wired) and they MONITOR voltage.> They also delay Power on (Easy to tell if you got the good ones)

So if you plug in and about 2.5-3 minutes later CLUNK you got power. you got the good one.
If you plug into a 240 volt TT-30 or looks like a TT-30 and plug fits as above.. NO CLUNK No power Just a display that shows why (240 volts)

If the voltage goes low. say 90 volts.. Well that's rough on compressors and the like.. So CLUNK no power I've seen 90 volts (or less) in a park with anemic wiring.

But these are true Energy monitor Systems not just spike guards.
They also cost like 200-400 dollars. for the 50 amp version.

But I strongly recommend them.

[CA_Traveler]

Most houses do not have surge protection. Most RV's don't come with surge protection, some do including more advanced EMS protection (voltage, miswired pedestal, etc).

[ScottG]

Chum lee wrote:
Hummmmmmmmmmmm! Please educate me if incorrect. My understanding of most inline surge protectors is that they protect YOUR electrical system (especially very sensitive electronic components) from externally generated surges (power company or line voltage) not internally generated surges. Your in house fuses and circuit breakers do that.



Chum lee

Fuses and circuit breakers won't protect against surges. They'll happily pass them along.

OP: Get the 50A unit. As others have indicated, it will provide more, very important protection.

[CA_Traveler]

For reference it's been discussed many times that a 50A 4 wire RV circuit is actually 2 120V 50A circuits allowing for 3 or 4 A/C units or combinations of other higher draw devices.

Without getting into the details of the 50A RV circuit which has been discussed many times this circuit can and does cause very high and low voltage when the common neutral is open or partially open which can be a pedestal or RV problem. Hence it's been my recommendation that all 50A RVs use a EMS protects against this possibility since high voltage can damage connected equipment in the RV.

In 2004 with my first 50A RV I installed the Progressive Industries HW 50C EMS which protects against an open 50A neutral and 10 other faults.

[wa8yxm]

fj12ryder wrote:
Due to the differences in wiring between a 30 amp cord/plug and a 50 amp cord/plug, you'd best be served getting a 50 amp EMS.

However you can use a 50-30 adapter and the park's 30 amp outlet.
The wires in the 30 amp Device are not up to 50 amp loads so do not use the park's 50 amp outlet with it.

As Ryder said. I'd up-grade to a 50 amp unit. Then you can either
A: use the one that fits the park outlet or B: use that 50-30 adapter when in a 30 amp only park.

NOTE you need that 50-30 adapter in any case.

[Chum_lee]

Hummmmmmmmmmmm! Please educate me if incorrect. My understanding of most inline surge protectors is that they protect YOUR electrical system (especially very sensitive electronic components) from externally generated surges (power company or line voltage) not internally generated surges. Your in house fuses and circuit breakers do that.

External surges could be the result of lightning strikes on conductors, transformers, switch gear, or high demand loads which turn on/off outside your system, remote transformers coming on/going off line due to power company (grid) requirements, etc.

Chum lee

[cmarkj]

Thanks for the input all.