A small in size generator to carry along in a class "C"?

[ctilsie242]

I'm still debating between a class "C" or a "B", but one of the things I want to bring along is a small in size, inverter generator, even though the motorhome will have an Onan onboard. A few reasons why:

• I can locate the generator physically away from my vehicle, so it doesn't feel like a Magic Fingers bed.
• I really don't need 2800 or 4000 watts when just powering up a converter, so being able to save fuel is nice.
• If the house batteries are too low, the Onan won't power on, so having a "black start" ability with a recoil start generator can't hurt.
• For tasks like running a generator for battery charging, I'd rather put it on a less expensive unit for long run time.

What would people recommend for a small inverter generator for low wattage applications too small to bother firing up the onboard Onan? The Powerhouse 500 watt one looks OK at $350. For what I would be using it for, the capacity is a bit puny, but enough to charge batteries and run basic stuff. Next step up is a Honda EU2000i Companion which would handle virtually everything but the A/C.

[Jbrowland]

When I read, "we want to put the generator farther away from us so it is not as loud" what I am really reading is, "you want to put your generator closer to me so I hear it more." ;). I recall the guy who had his Honda running about 50 yards away from his trailer and about 10 Yards away from my RV all night long. It worked well for him.

As was stated, for light loads, just add a cheap solar system and save yourself some money and me (and you) the noise when I'm parked next to you. Even just 200w may do the trick and save you time, money, noise levels, and will also be safer without all that extra gas to carry. This advice applies to using either the portable or the onboard generator. Solar is always better for noise reduction and eventually cost as well.

On a side note, keeping a $1000+ portable generator behind a one dollar lock with a key that 90% of us have worries me a little bit.

[Sam_Spade]

road-runner wrote:

Sam Spade wrote:

road-runner wrote:
and is significantly quieter inside the rig.

That's an assumption that may not be true.

If the statement I made sounds like a sweeping generalization, I made a mistake. I'm meant to comment only on my "noisy as heck" Onan setup. I've read plenty of posts about the built-in gens being pretty quiet inside some motorhomes.

Thank you for understanding that the difference in the way something is stated usually is important.

And for realizing that every difference of opinion is NOT an invitation for a fight !!!

Cheers.

[road-runner]

Sam Spade wrote:

road-runner wrote:
and is significantly quieter inside the rig.

That's an assumption that may not be true.

If the statement I made sounds like a sweeping generalization, I made a mistake. I'm meant to comment only on my "noisy as heck" Onan setup. I've read plenty of posts about the built-in gens being pretty quiet inside some motorhomes.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Unfortunately load support is not voltage support--so the Magnum will NOT protect the air conditioner from brown outs. For that an autoformer is needed.

ctilsie242 wrote:
When I'm boondocking and running the A/C, the Onan does the heavy lifting, powering the inverter/converter (which I will be replacing with a Magnum Energy MSH-3012M model, so a Texas brownout doesn't fry my A/C unit.)

[IAMICHABOD]

Sam Spade wrote:

road-runner wrote:
and is significantly quieter inside the rig.

That's an assumption that may not be true.
And I bet that it is almost never true for ALL of your neighbors.

Everyone will do what they want to do......regardless of the facts

I have to agree with road-runner and dis-agree with Sam.

I did a little test on my Generac IQ2000with a sound meter, First running the ONAN,outside at about 2FT then inside both with the microwave on.

I found that inside the RV it was only 5 db less than outside,my ONAN sits under the dinette and there is some vibration too.
Then with the Generac at 2 ft the Generac was 10db quieter outside and inside it was only 2-3 db higher that the ambient noise and no vibration.

I then went to the empty neighboring campsite and did the same test.

With the ONAN on it measured 10 db higher than the ambient noise level and with the Generac only 2-3 db above ambient.

I think my neighbors would prefer the Generac when I have to charge my batteries or run the microwave for a short time,I know I like it much better.

[ctilsie242]

OP here:

When not in use, the small generator will have its main home in a plastic tub in the basement storage compartment.

When I'm boondocking and running the A/C, the Onan does the heavy lifting, powering the inverter/converter (which I will be replacing with a Magnum Energy MSH-3012M model, so a Texas brownout doesn't fry my A/C unit.)

However, come winter, where I'm not needing 2017 watts being pumped from the genset to the A/C so my rig is habitable in the Texas summer, the Onan is a relatively thirsty beast, using 0.3 gallons an hour just to spin its crankshaft at 3600 RPM. I can run a Honda eu1000i for 2-4 hours on that much fuel, and a smaller generator even longer, especially if it is an inverter model that can run at lower RPMs. I also can use a separate battery charger to reduce the amount of amperage required.

Definitely, solar will help. However, it doesn't hurt to have a spare, small generator, just so the generator can be placed well away from the campsite when boondocking.

[wnjj]

SoundGuy wrote:

3oaks wrote:
It amazes me how many people misunderstood (perhaps) the original poster's question. :S

What would people recommend for a small inverter generator for low wattage applications too small to bother firing up the onboard Onan?

He wasn't asking if he should carry along a small generator, nor was he asking for alternatives. :R

I would recommend a Honda 1000 or a Honda 2000 generator. Definitely nothing smaller than a 1000 watt generator.

HUH? :h Your post makes NO sense :R - first you're claiming the OP "wasn't asking if he should carry along a small generator, nor was he asking for alternatives" when in fact he was, THEN you yourself go on to "recommend a Honda 1000 or a Honda 2000 generator" which are of course "small generators". HUH?!!! :h

His post made perfect sense to me. The OP wasn't asking IF, just WHAT. He was looking for generator suggestions, not non-generator alternatives.

A 1k unit is a good choice for battery charging.

[eric1514]

ctilsie242 wrote:
I'm still debating between a class "C" or a "B", but one of the things I want to bring along is a small in size, inverter generator, even though the motorhome will have an Onan onboard...

IMHO, there's not enough room in a "B" to consider taking along a spare stand-alone generator and the fuel it will require.

[Sam_Spade]

road-runner wrote:
and is significantly quieter inside the rig.

That's an assumption that may not be true.
And I bet that it is almost never true for ALL of your neighbors.

I never run my Onan JUST to charge the batteries.
It is needed to run the microwave for a meal......and for AC when it's hot.

Everyone will do what they want to do......regardless of the facts of the matter. Some have NO generator; others, it seems, have TWO.

No method is "wrong" because it's a matter personal preference.
Some just make better logical sense than others.

[road-runner]

I fail to see the logic to have an onboard gen set and carry an additional noisy one, especially in a Class C with limited storage.
bumpy

And I fail to see the logic in running the onboard gen for hours to bring the battery to ~90% when the portable gen uses a lot less fuel and is significantly quieter inside the rig. If the onboard generator is fueled with propane, that's an additional reason to avoid using it. If I need the power for a short time I hit the built-in for convenience. When charging the battery for an hour or more, I use an 800 VA inverter gen. The charge rate is limited, but the total charge time isn't a whole lot longer. With unlimited current available the battery pull drops under 30 amps within 20 minutes or so anyway.

[pnichols]

SoundGuy wrote:
Since most RVs are typically equipped by the manufacturer with a 50 to 60 amp converter / charger ....

Our Class C has the 40 amp fixed voltage (~13.8V) stock Parallax converter in it. The EX650 powers this just fine up to what the converter is called upon to deliver to the RV batteries. The converter is never required to dump that much current into our RV battery bank because A) we rarely let our RV batteries get low enough to demand that much current, and/or B) the converter's output voltage isn't high enough to drive the batteries into a high current acceptance range.

[Bumpyroad]

I fail to see the logic to have an onboard gen set and carry an additional noisy one, especially in a Class C with limited storage.
bumpy

[rockhillmanor]

Sam Spade wrote:
I would not consider doing this AT ALL.
The convenience of just pushing that button is worth a LOT.

The less expensive portables are generally noisy and might be worse than a built-in.

I DO, however, carry a portable "jumper battery" unit with an inverter and compressor; less than $100 and it has come in handy a couple of times.

In addition to that, most will automatically "bridge" the truck battery when the engine is running (if it is working properly) so you can start the truck for a few minutes and then start the generator after you get a bit of a charge in the house batteries.

Anyway....you don't NEED to do anything until AFTER you actually get an RV.

X10!
potables are VERY VERY loud. Run time is VERY short and don't forget you will then have to ALSO carry gasoline on board for it. ALL NOT needed if you have a gen on board and USE it! :C

Ditto on above post.
1. If needed just start your RV to charge low house batteries. But if you are connected to shore power your convertor does that.

2. Buy a 'jumper battery'. Starts vehicles, inverter, and air compressor, all rolled into one small package easy to store.

3. Gen-Turi. Buy one! It diverts deadly exhaust from going under you RV and/or neighboring RV's. And eliminates the smell of gen exhaust inside your MH.

[SoundGuy]

pnichols wrote:
We have our Class C setup almost like what the OP wants ... a built-in Onan and we carry along a very quiet Honda 650 watt suitcase generator. The little Honda's noise level is 54 dB at all loads it can handle and runs 5-6 hours on 1/2 gallon of gas.

Since most RVs are typically equipped by the manufacturer with a 50 to 60 amp converter / charger a Honda EX650 (rated @ 4.6 amps / 5.4 amps peak) just can't produce sufficient power to fully power that converter. A 50 - 60 amp bulk charge @ a minimum 14.4 volts = 864 watts / 120 volts = 7.2 amps, not even factoring in the converter's PF which is often down around 0.60. As Sandia Man already said - "I agree at least a 1000 watt genny would be the minimum" for RV use, a 2000 watt if one wants to also run a variety of appliances.