Advice needed for electric pedestal tester

[pasusan]

I want to get a good tester to use before hooking up at a campground.

Is there one that will check for the usual stuff like polarity, open ground, etc. - as well as tell the voltage?

Thanks for any help.

[SoundGuy]

time2roll wrote:
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/services

I recommend a monitor that will not allow power until all is correct and stable for about a minute.

theoldwizard1 wrote:
I second this !

The fact that it does not pass power for the first minute or two will get you the first couple of times you use it.

Both of these statements infer that the Progressive EMS unit is using this 136" time delay to analyze the input signal before deciding it's stable enough to pass along to the trailer. This is incorrect as the analysis takes no time at all - rather, delay is set at 136" in order to protect an A/C compressor, preventing it from restarting until head pressure has diminished to a safe level. Progressive EMS delay for the portable versions is fixed at 136" but delay for the hard wire versions can be shortened to a more convenient 15" by removing an internal jumper. I took this one step further with my own EMS-HW30C by wiring in an SPST switch in place of the jumper so I can simply switch between the two delay times, 15" or 136", rather than have to open the case and fool with the jumper. :B

[doxiemom11]

We also use a Progressive Industries device that will not allow incorrect power into the rv, and tells you what is wrong. It will also cut off if voltage gets too high or too low.

[theoldwizard1]

time2roll wrote:
http://www.progressiveindustries.net/services

I recommend a monitor that will not allow power until all is correct and stable for about a minute.

I second this !

The fact that it does not pass power for the first minute or two will get you the first couple of times you use it.

[SoundGuy]

SoundGuy wrote:
However, this will only check the line source, not do anything about it if an error is found or later develops. In the long run you'd be far better off investing in a Progressive Industries EMS that constantly monitors the situation and will take action if necessary.

pasusan wrote:
Yeah, I'm with you about the PI EMS - I've got one hardwired into my trailer. At this point don't want to duplicate that in our B and will feel better if at least testing before connecting. Will look for that Prime tester - thanks...

Well you could still have your cake and eat it too by wiring your hardwire EMS into both rigs using standard RV connectors, just as I did. That way you can use your one EMS in whichever rig you want, at any time. :B

[SoundGuy]

EsoxLucius wrote:
This is what I have used for three years.

https://www.amazon.com/TRC-AECM20020-3-012-Electra-Digital-Monitor/dp/B001O2SQXQ

Does the TRC check for open neutral, open ground, or reversed polarity as does the Prime Products AC Line Monitor that costs half as much?

[EsoxLucius]

This is what I have used for three years.

https://www.amazon.com/TRC-AECM20020-3-012-Electra-Digital-Monitor/dp/B001O2SQXQ

[pianotuna]

And pay for the privilege, too.

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
🙂

Come to México with an EMS and unwillingly Boondock

[MEXICOWANDERER]

🙂

Come to México with an EMS and unwillingly Boondock

[time2roll]

http://www.progressiveindustries.net/services

I recommend a monitor that will not allow power until all is correct and stable for about a minute.

Will also cut power if anything becomes a problem. Lifetime warranty.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

It is best to test under load--so add a 1500 watt heater to the mix.

I prefer autoformers to surge devices.

[IAMICHABOD]

I always check with my home made pedestal checker,cheap but it works.

Saves me the hassel of dragging everything out.

parts list
15 amp to 30 amp Adapter
triplex outlet
Outlet tester
Volt Meter
I had all these around the house,why not use them...
I also use my 50amp to 30amp adapter to check the 50amp side. Sometimes I like them better as the are in better shape.

[DrewE]

The low cost checker for a 30A outlet (or 20A one) would be a three-light tester and a plug-in voltmeter. The latter can be found for $5 or less at various online places. You can often rig up a little gizmo with a multiple outlet adapter so there's only one thing to plug in.

It's also entirely possible to make all these checks with a multimeter in a few seconds. The voltage between the hot and the neutral should be ca. 120V, and equal to that between the hot and the ground. There should be no voltage (or at least not any more than a stray volt or two) between the neutral and the ground. The guts of the PI units are just continually making these three measurements, along with power line frequency, and control a heavy-duty relay to connect or disconnect the power as it meets or does not meet specs. Excessive frequency variations on grid power are extremely rare and in my opinion not worth worrying about. The PI units have very loose frequency tolerances, anyhow.

[pasusan]

wolfe10 wrote:
First, a question: What type of connection do you want to test?

30 amp
50 amp
Both

I have different testers for 30 vs 50.

Sorry about that - it will be 30 amp, but I can always use an adapter.

[pasusan]

SoundGuy wrote:
I use this Prime Products AC Line Meter, even built a dongle for it so I can plug it directly into 30 amp service.



However, this will only check the line source, not do anything about it if an error is found or later develops. In the long run you'd be far better off investing in a Progressive Industries EMS that constantly monitors the situation and will take action if necessary.

Yeah, I'm with you about the PI EMS - I've got one hardwired into my trailer. At this point don't want to duplicate that in our B and will feel better if at least testing before connecting. Will look for that Prime tester - thanks...

[wolfe10]

First, a question: What type of connection do you want to test?

30 amp
50 amp
Both

I have different testers for 30 vs 50.