Atwood vs. Suburban Propane Hot Heaters -Pilot Light Models

[shootandfish1]

Hi folks,

I have been studying ways to heat water using propane for places with little or no electric/running water. (Cabins, Hunting/Fishing Camps, Barns, ect.) The 'Old-School' RV Propane Water Heaters with no electronics appear to be a good solution. The various portable tank-less models require (waste) too much water in order to function.

Atwood and Suburban still make 6 and 10 gallon propane hot water heaters that uses a pilot light. (That must be lit manually from the outside). These models allow one to conserve water and appear to be KISS simple.

Which Brand to choose? Prices are comparable.
.
The Suburban has a bigger burner, is steel, but requires that the anode be changed.

The Atwood uses an aluminum tank, no anode, and claims that their 'Through Tube' Combustion Chamber makes for a more efficient use of the pilot light for maintaining temperature.

I would really appreciate hearing from the members with 'real-world' experience. The main negative I have read about is that strong winds will blow out the pilot light.

Ease of lighting the pilot light, reliability, parts availability and ease of service?

Something that appealed to me was the option of setting to control knob to 'Pilot' during the day just to keep the water lukewarm for handwashing and then turning the control knob to 'on' just before showers are taken.

Thanks in advance for your comments,

Fred

[Old-Biscuit]

shootandfish1 wrote:
Called Suburban Customer Service - After an lengthy amount of time on hold listening to 'stuff', an recorded message was played stating that the company does not sell replacement parts to owners.


Called Atwood Customer Service - Right away I was connected to a super nice fellow. And although Atwood will sell replacement parts to owners, he gave me an on-line source that sells Atwood Hot Water Heater Replacement Parts cheaper than he could.

This gentlemen was extremly knowledgeable,answered questions and discussed my concerns quite well.

Atwood will soon have a new customer...

Silly me forgot to ask the guy if I could buy a current service manual. I found an 2004 version on-line, and although the water heaters are basicily the same, Atwood is using a newer Gas Control for the pilot light models.

Fred

YES ----Atwood is now using Robertshaw Unitrol again. (2004 they swapped to White Rogers)
Either work just fine.
That 2004 Manual covers both

[72cougarxr7]

I think an Atwood would fit your needs well. I bought a travel trailer 2 years ago that had a leaking Atwood water heater due to not being winterized and split in a couple places. I decided to replace the whole unit, as I found a good deal on one on ebay. I installed last summer and used last summer and this summer and it worked great. Mine is a pilot light model that requires no power. We camped for a week in Illinois this summer and I lit it when we parked and I never had to mess with it the whole week.
The pilot light does seem to help maintain the tank temperature, the burner rarely lights unless you are running the hot water.
Most RV dealers in my area carry parts for them, or can at least get them.

[shootandfish1]

Called Suburban Customer Service - After an lengthy amount of time on hold listening to 'stuff', an recorded message was played stating that the company does not sell replacement parts to owners.


Called Atwood Customer Service - Right away I was connected to a super nice fellow. And although Atwood will sell replacement parts to owners, he gave me an on-line source that sells Atwood Hot Water Heater Replacement Parts cheaper than he could.

This gentlemen was extremly knowledgeable,answered questions and discussed my concerns quite well.

Atwood will soon have a new customer...

Silly me forgot to ask the guy if I could buy a current service manual. I found an 2004 version on-line, and although the water heaters are basicily the same, Atwood is using a newer Gas Control for the pilot light models.

Fred

[SoundGuy]

shootandfish1 wrote:
On the other hand, I'm finding several places offering replacement parts for the Suburban, but I am hardly seeing any Atwood parts for sale.

Bet none of your links show a Suburban tank available as a replacement part ... and any RV dealer that deals in Atwood can get you any part you need, including a tank. 😉

[shootandfish1]

OK See if this will work.

Start with a 20 lb propane tank,

attach a 2 stage rv (11 in WC) hortizontal regulator with male POL and female 3/8 NPT,

attach rubber hose (Mr. Heater 15 ft) with 3/8 male NPT and 3/8 female NPT,

attach brass 1/2 union with 3/8 male NPT and 3/8 male flare.

At the hot water heater 3/8 line, slide a 3/8 brass flare nut on, then flare the line (Yes, Even though it has been 35+ years since I used a flaring tool, I remember forgetting to put the flare nut on FIRST, lol.)

Last,attach the flare nut to the 3/8 male flare side of the union.

After several on-line searches, I could not find a long enough hose that had a 3/8 male NPT (for the Regulator) and a 3/8 male Flare (for the Flare nut).

Any problems? I should add that locally, If Lowes, Tractor Supply,or maybe NAPA does carry what I need then I have to order it.

Fred

[shootandfish1]

Super Thanks to everyone. The Atwood 10 gal is about $50 cheaper and about 1/2 the weight (20 lbs) than the Suburban.

On the other hand, I'm finding several places offering replacement parts for the Suburban, but I am hardly seeing any Atwood parts for sale.


Side question. Both brands have a 3/8 inch copper line for connecting to the propane supply and call for using a 'flared' connected. Thoughts? I've made flared connections (and compression connections), but that was several years ago and I'm not sure if any 'newer/better?' methods exist . I want to use a rubber hose between the water heater and an RV 2-Stage Regulator (11 inch WC), attached to an 20 lb Tank.

Any specifics on simplifying the hook-up will also appreciated.

Fred

On edit - I done some studying - see next post.

[ggardne2]

Another vote for Atwood, for a given capacity you will get more hot water for a longer period of time from the Atwood.

[SoundGuy]

n7bsn wrote:
I had both, not certain there was enough of a difference to worry about.

I've owned both Suburban and Atwood water heaters, pilot and DSI, and would choose the Atwood. Not only does the Atwood offer a quicker recovery time but it's aluminum tank is available as a standard replacement part whereas the Suburban porcelain lined steel tank isn't - blow a Suburban tank and you'll be replacing the entire water heater. :M

[n7bsn]

I had both, not certain there was enough of a difference to worry about.

[BFL13]

The ordinary Suburban WH in our 5er has only ever been run on gas, never by 120v. On gas it has the same operating options for when to turn it on and off as a pilot light model, but I like it a lot better than the pilot light one in the 1981 truck camper. The 5er one is so easy to operate, but it does need a battery for its 12v controls. Phooey on the pilot light one.

You can run one in a remote cabin with a 12v battery maintained by a simple solar set-up. On gas, they are the same for having to get the propane tank refilled.

I can't compare with an Atwood, but the anode change every so often (years for ours) is no big deal in the Suburban.

[Old-Biscuit]

Personally I would use an Atwood 10 gallon pilot only water heater.

Through Tube Combustion Chamber....... chamber/exhasut runs diagonally from lower right side to upper left side of tank (Suburban's 'U' Tube is stacked directly above each other far right side). Diagonally allows more surface contact.

Uses 10,000 btu/hr with a 13,2 gallon per hr recovery rate (Suburban 12,000 & 10.2 recovery)

Aluminum tank (clad with aluminum/zinc alloy) so no anode rod required (Suburban STEEL tank with porcelain lining....cracks/steel needs anode rod)

Lighter weight unit/smaller size vs Suburban

Pilot ignition......on both so stand alone operation/no DC needed
(Only pilot with re-ignition or DSI Units need the DC)

[2oldnslow]

I have an Atwood pilot model. There are no wires to the gas valve so no 12V is required.

It does have a 12V sparker to light the pilot, but I think that was an add-on. It would not be required to run the unit.

[Fisherman]

No 12V required for pilot models.

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

mbopp wrote:
I may be wrong, but I believe even the pilot-light models require 12V for the gas valve.

I'm not sure about RV water heaters with pilot lights because my only experience with is with DSI models, but . . .

I've had plenty of experience with residential gas water heaters with pilot lights. I've never seen one that needed any electricity at all. I see no reason why RV versions with pilot light would necessarily need electricity.

Wayne