Best way to splice into a 12 volt wire?

[mlts22]

For splicing into existing 12 volt wiring, what is the best way to do so? Best as in resistant to vibrations and won't burn out?

I have seen 3M Scotchlok connectors, but I wonder how secure they will stay over time.

Soldering is also an option with heat shrink tubing.

Of course, there are crimp connectors, but can someone recommend a good crimping tool? So far, the ones I've used, one has to be careful with or else it will cut the crimp joint in two. To boot, wires seem to work loose over time.

[mapguy]

Old & Slow wrote:

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Why screw around?

http://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Step!Down-Butt-Connectors/p_801887

I didn't. I ordered.

O&S

These with the Klein Crimper and a length of adhesive lined heat shrink work great in places where there is no need for a disconnect in the future.

If a disconnect is needed in the future an insulated stud plus ring terminals on the wire is the best. I will use a split bolt but prefer the insulated stud ....

All OEM car/light truck manufactures specify proper crimp connectors and heat shrink for warranty splices -soldering is not allowed. Problem with soldering is work stress and operator skill during the solder process.

[Old___Slow]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Why screw around?

http://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Step!Down-Butt-Connectors/p_801887

I didn't. I ordered.

O&S

[2112]

Airstreamer67 wrote:

Bobbo wrote:
This is the crimping tool I use. Less than $6 at the big box store.

I use the same type device for my projects.

They must work for others too as they've been around for decades and seem to be sold everywhere.

I have been using the same for years and hasn't failed me yet. I get the splices at the auto part store.

[Airstreamer67]

Bobbo wrote:
This is the crimping tool I use. Less than $6 at the big box store.

I use the same type device for my projects.

I'm not a professional so don't need to produce work like one. But for my use over the past 50 years or so, that type of crimping device has worked for me. I can't remember one failing to get the job done for me, and I've used them a lot as I've had many wiring projects through the years.

They must work for others too as they've been around for decades and seem to be sold everywhere.

[Old___Slow]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Why screw around?

http://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Step!Down-Butt-Connectors/p_801887

Best idea so far for me. I need to splice into the E/Scooter system and add my Solar panel. Now where to find this item, around the corner. I bought the split bolts at HD. Maybe they have to be used.

O&S

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Why screw around?

http://www.delcity.net/store/Non!Insulated-Step!Down-Butt-Connectors/p_801887

[mlts22]

Mind linking a source for the ratcheting crimping tools?

[BruceMc]

I have one of those ratching crimps for larger Anderson PPs as well.

Occasionally, depending on the application, I'll crimp the terminal, then solder the tips of the wires to the barrel but not where the wire exits the barrel. This is the best of both worlds - belt & suspenders, plus a little flexibility at the wire/barrel joint.

[wa8yxm]

Not for butt connectors but for terminals I use a crimping tool designed for use with Anderson power Poles.

Now that puppy (it is a ratcheting model) does a job that at the worst is as good as a factory job.. And I've seen factory crimps not as good.

One solid crimper.

I still like to solder though (Belt and suspenders on a dishcloth I never done seen before... line from a funny song).

[Chris_Bryant]

I also recommend the Klein crimper- but I use the 1005, which has a stake on for non-insulated, plus an oval crimp for insulated terminals.


I use either nylon (with heat shrink over) or heat shrink terminals. There are 2 things to look for in crimpers- the anvil that does the crimping needs to be reasonably wide, and the hinge between the jaws must be rigid, and keep the jaws in line.
As to adding a line- as has been said, it all depends on the wire sizes and loads. For heavy loads and large wires, I usually try to add an insulated post, though I have also used ring terminals with a machine screw, split bolts, crimped but connectors, and I have even used the awful scotch lock connectors (though I fill them with grease)- times when either time or physical restraints kept me from doing anything else.

[BruceMc]

I've been guilty of using these for smaller insulated terminals when they have a thin insulator.

Another method is to remove the insulator and slide it down the wire, then crimp the bare connector, then push the insulator back over the terminal barrel. This works when the insulator is thick and/or is a large wire size such as 10 gauge.

[time2roll]

BruceMc wrote:
Here's the style I use:



Klein Tools 1006 Crimping/Cutting Tool Non-Insulated Terminals 10-22 AWG

What works well for insulated terminals?

[aruba5er]

That $6 krimp tool is a bunch of c**p. You will not get the proper crimp. I have seen too many fail because of a tool like that. Buy good or not at all. Price does not dictate quality. And don't use those connectors where you lay the wire in, crimp with a pliers and fold over the cover. Even worse than the usual bare,twist and tape I usually see.

[Bobbo]

This is the crimping tool I use. Less than $6 at the big box store.