Brake job on E450

[suprz]

Just got a quote from the local Ford dealership... New pads, rotors, and seals. $1,900.00 My pads seem to be fine to me. They just squeak sometimes when in stop and go traffic. If you press the brake pedal it goes away. I'm thinking that the anti-squeal coating on the pads is dried up. Any suggestions?

[suprz]

SidecarFlip wrote:

suprz wrote:

pickjare wrote:
Personally, I think the dealership is the best place to take your vehicle for repairs, but you have to find the right one. At 32,000 miles, for $1900 it sounds like they are replacing everything. Ask why??

At 32,000 miles I would expect the front pads to be getting low and the squealer tabs contacting rotors to alert you. The calipers should be ok. Ask why they were quoted? Many companies consider it a liability to reuse things so they replace everything. But service manual won't say it is required. Rotors have a minimum thickness, ask if yours are below minimum. If not, why were they quoted? The rotors should be ok but will need machined as part of front brake pad replacement.

You get what you pay for and brakes are important obviously, as well as having qualified person do the work. My suggestion is to get a second opinion and ask the above questions if price is also $1900. A front brake job (lu be caliper slides, replace pads, machine rotors) should cost less than $500 using good Ford parts. I'm betting rear brakes are still only half worn which is fine for another 30,000.

I agree, and I only contacted the dealer because of the squeaking and to get a quote on a brake job so I can get the $$ ready. The 1900.00 quote was only for the brake pads, all four rotors, and the seals for the rear axles. It doesn't include calipers. (but my aftermarket warranty does cover calipers if they were needed). Sooooo.... This year it looks like I will do a roof re-coat, and a new A/C. And next year brakes

I have to ask... Do you have the Ford extended warranty or a third party warranty? reason I ask is if it's 3rd party, you need to check and see if the Ford garage will honor it.

I have a aftermarket warranty and I checked with the Ford dealership and they will honor it. I had to ask because it covers A LOT of the chassis components. (engine,transmission, etc... ) as well as the coach parts

[pnichols]

suprz,

You have Ford's 5-speed (6 ratios, internally) computer controlled TorqShift transmission in your 2006 E450 chassis.

Regardless of what you do now concerning a brake job, going forward you can get better brake life by leaving your transmission with it's Tow/Haul mode engaged full time when traveling. This gives you engine braking all the time - on the level whenever slowing down and stopping, and whenever controlling speed going down grades.

I have used Tow/Haul mode a lot in the past with our 2005 E450, and I pretty much use it full time now. At the ~60K mileage service point, some time ago, we still did not need brake work.

By the way, using Tow/Haul mode full time in an E450 based motorhome should yield longer brake service intervals than using Tow/Haul mode full time in an E350 based equivalent weight motorhome because of the more aggressive (higher) rear differential ratio of the E450 chassis. There is more engine drag when letting up on the gas in a vehicle with higher rear differential ratios.

[Chum_lee]

Unless you regularly drive the Rocky Mountains, or live in San Francisco, or tow constantly in city traffic at max GVRW, it hard for me to believe after 32,000 miles the brakes your Ford chassis need that much work.

If they stop consistently without fade, shudder, pull etc., chances are all you need are front pads and a brake fluid change. That said, I can't see or drive your vehicle. As previously mentioned putting anti-squeal on new pads can help as well as cleaning and relubing the caliper guide pins.

Get an itemized second opinion without saying anything about your first quote.

Chum lee

[SidecarFlip]

suprz wrote:

pickjare wrote:
Personally, I think the dealership is the best place to take your vehicle for repairs, but you have to find the right one. At 32,000 miles, for $1900 it sounds like they are replacing everything. Ask why??

At 32,000 miles I would expect the front pads to be getting low and the squealer tabs contacting rotors to alert you. The calipers should be ok. Ask why they were quoted? Many companies consider it a liability to reuse things so they replace everything. But service manual won't say it is required. Rotors have a minimum thickness, ask if yours are below minimum. If not, why were they quoted? The rotors should be ok but will need machined as part of front brake pad replacement.

You get what you pay for and brakes are important obviously, as well as having qualified person do the work. My suggestion is to get a second opinion and ask the above questions if price is also $1900. A front brake job (lu be caliper slides, replace pads, machine rotors) should cost less than $500 using good Ford parts. I'm betting rear brakes are still only half worn which is fine for another 30,000.

I agree, and I only contacted the dealer because of the squeaking and to get a quote on a brake job so I can get the $$ ready. The 1900.00 quote was only for the brake pads, all four rotors, and the seals for the rear axles. It doesn't include calipers. (but my aftermarket warranty does cover calipers if they were needed). Sooooo.... This year it looks like I will do a roof re-coat, and a new A/C. And next year brakes

I have to ask... Do you have the Ford extended warranty or a third party warranty? reason I ask is if it's 3rd party, you need to check and see if the Ford garage will honor it.

[SidecarFlip]

You have to pay-to-play. I always do my own brakes and seals, not hard to do. Rock Auto is my go to parts source and I never have rotors turned, easier to replace and scrp the old ones, Hemcho Mexico or not.

I did the brakes on my F350 4x4 last year, new everything including calipers....300 for parts and my time.

Keep in mind that the labor rate today can be upwards of $130 per hour and brake jobs take time.

I can do the labor, not rocket science, just common sense.

[suprz]

pickjare wrote:
Personally, I think the dealership is the best place to take your vehicle for repairs, but you have to find the right one. At 32,000 miles, for $1900 it sounds like they are replacing everything. Ask why??

At 32,000 miles I would expect the front pads to be getting low and the squealer tabs contacting rotors to alert you. The calipers should be ok. Ask why they were quoted? Many companies consider it a liability to reuse things so they replace everything. But service manual won't say it is required. Rotors have a minimum thickness, ask if yours are below minimum. If not, why were they quoted? The rotors should be ok but will need machined as part of front brake pad replacement.

You get what you pay for and brakes are important obviously, as well as having qualified person do the work. My suggestion is to get a second opinion and ask the above questions if price is also $1900. A front brake job (lu be caliper slides, replace pads, machine rotors) should cost less than $500 using good Ford parts. I'm betting rear brakes are still only half worn which is fine for another 30,000.

I agree, and I only contacted the dealer because of the squeaking and to get a quote on a brake job so I can get the $$ ready. The 1900.00 quote was only for the brake pads, all four rotors, and the seals for the rear axles. It doesn't include calipers. (but my aftermarket warranty does cover calipers if they were needed). Sooooo.... This year it looks like I will do a roof re-coat, and a new A/C. And next year brakes

[suprz]

j-d wrote:

Don't forget now, let me know what its weight was, from Jayco.

I believe that the sticker on the cabinet door said 12,200lbs out the door of the factory

[pickjare]

Personally, I think the dealership is the best place to take your vehicle for repairs, but you have to find the right one. At 32,000 miles, for $1900 it sounds like they are replacing everything. Ask why??

At 32,000 miles I would expect the front pads to be getting low and the squealer tabs contacting rotors to alert you. The calipers should be ok. Ask why they were quoted? Many companies consider it a liability to reuse things so they replace everything. But service manual won't say it is required. Rotors have a minimum thickness, ask if yours are below minimum. If not, why were they quoted? The rotors should be ok but will need machined as part of front brake pad replacement.

You get what you pay for and brakes are important obviously, as well as having qualified person do the work. My suggestion is to get a second opinion and ask the above questions if price is also $1900. A front brake job (lu be caliper slides, replace pads, machine rotors) should cost less than $500 using good Ford parts. I'm betting rear brakes are still only half worn which is fine for another 30,000.

[j-d]

Looks like your rear brakes use what I call "wedges"


The four long pieces are slides and retainers for the rear pads, and the two little pieces are anti-rattle clips. My personal belief is that wedges cause more sticking than slide bolts do. And harder to remove and re-install.

Checking/Changing/Lubricating the Front Pads/Calipers is one step beyond changing a tire. You should be able to get into a position where you can see the actual pads. If the material is a lot thicker than the steel backing, the pads'll get you to FL and back. Probably more.

Let me know when you're coming, maybe I can catch you for a break along the road, 95 or 75.

Then for next year, put advance thought into a brake job. If it doesn't need calipers or rotors, then do pads, use that lube, and go. If it needs more, get a takeoff Brake kit from Quigley. I don't know if Ford would want to install it because it'd be a mixed breed vehicle. Moonlighting Ford mechanic would be perfect, but any mechanic can do the swap. If it needs ball joints, get the whole Axle kit. It won't be "like new" - It'll BE NEW.

Don't forget now, let me know what its weight was, from Jayco.

[suprz]

j-d wrote:
Are you able to work on brakes, and do you want to? If so, dismantle, scuff pads with emery cloth (or a flat concrete surface) and put it all together lubing it with this

You can get the front Calipers and Pads off easily. To pull the Rotor, you need to remove the Caliper Bracket, 21MM socket and they are TIGHT.

What year is your Chassis? And How many Miles?

Do you have the rear brakes on slide pins like the fronts, or does yours use the stainless steel drive wedges? With either, you can get it apart and do same as front, but drive wedges are a PITA to get back in place.

Remember, unless your Chassis has the "Dump Truck Nose" you can upgrade to those brakes from a 4x4 conversion company.

I can do brakes, BUT not on this rig. The year of the E450 is 2006. It has 32,000 miles on it. Have no idea what the rear calipers have (pins or wedges) I'm the third owner of the RV, so I don't know brake maintenance. But I am guessing they haven't been done. The pedal feels good, no pulsing in the pedal, or lurching like the rotors are warped at all. They just squeak when crawling in stop and go traffic. They are probably fine, I will probably have the fronts done next spring, and the rears in the fall. Just so I know that the brakes are new. The trip this year is to Florida, so no real mountain descents to be of any worry. But 2018 is Yellowstone, Grand Tetons, Glacier NP. Utah... So I would rather have piece of mind on the 2018 trip

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Just an ACTUAL parts COST 2008 Ford F450 Class C a guest's rig down here. The job was done. I guided him to parts stores, machine shop, and mechanic's shop

NEW RAYBESTOS ROTORS: $13.30 each
NEW KELSEY HAYS CALIPERS $48.00 (approx) each.
NEW Canadian BEARINGS all of them with seals $26.00

I talked him into getting a new master cylinder $60.00

Machine shop labor to turn 2 rotors $16.00

Brake shop labor including total flush of the entire system $60.00

He had spent close to $700 in Canada to do the rear drum brakes.

All except the bearings were stamped Hecho en Mexico (made in Mexico)

[Dave_H_M]

measure the pads if thickness is an issue with the Stealer.

If it is squeaking all the time, Fords are notorious for stuck caliper pins, well at least half of mine were stuck.

[j-d]

Are you able to work on brakes, and do you want to? If so, dismantle, scuff pads with emery cloth (or a flat concrete surface) and put it all together lubing it with this

You can get the front Calipers and Pads off easily. To pull the Rotor, you need to remove the Caliper Bracket, 21MM socket and they are TIGHT.

What year is your Chassis? And How many Miles?

Do you have the rear brakes on slide pins like the fronts, or does yours use the stainless steel drive wedges? With either, you can get it apart and do same as front, but drive wedges are a PITA to get back in place.

Remember, unless your Chassis has the "Dump Truck Nose" you can upgrade to those brakes from a 4x4 conversion company.