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Converter Question

iski4fun
Explorer
Explorer
Good day, 1999 Fleetwood Travel Trailer 25 ft - does this rig have a converter? My interior lights were getting dim even when plugged into shore power. This prompted me to search for a converter to possibly replace because I understood a failing converter could be the culprit (due to not adequately charging the 12v). I couldn't find one, just a basic panel with 12v fuses and breakers for the 120v. I'm wondering if this rig even has a converter. Replaced 12v batteries which helps the dim lights, and I'm keeping them charged with a trickle charger. Is it possible this rig does not even have a converter and the 2 systems are separate? Note: interior lights on the 12v do not turn on at all when batteries are disconnected. Thanks, Bill
50 REPLIES 50

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
Glad to be of some help.

Check to see if your converter has some fuses blown on it, they often include reverse polarity protection fuses which are supposed to blow when the battery is connected backwards..

Might be a low cost repair in that case.

If the converter is dead, that IOTA 30A converter is still available at Electronic Goldmine surplus for $40.. You would also need to get the IQ-4 smart plug to get multistage charging (recommended), I believe that is going for around $20.

iski4fun
Explorer
Explorer
Found it - beneath the oven! Thank you all for the info and direction. I had to remove CO2 detector to get eyes on it. Looks like I'll be removing the oven and some drawers. It make much more sense now - thanks again and Happy Holidays everyone!

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
I received my IOTA today. It measures 13.52V on my calibrated Fluke. It's advertised as 13.4V on the enclosure label.
I'll order the IQ4 tonight

Thanks again for bringing this to my attention. I'm always looking for a deal.

On Edit: I realized this morning the 13.52V I measured last night was at the battery. The voltage this morning at the IOTA output is 13.60V and 13.58 at the battery.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
I believe IOTA floats close to 13.7 so it might be a bit high for camping in the heat.

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Sorry I hijacked your thread iski4fun.

Do yourself a favor and buy one of these IOTAs. You can't beat the price, and I believe you will need one. If you're not comfortable putting a 120V plug on it, find someone that can.

Even without the IQ4 controller, it's better than what you have. My WFCO converter puts out a constant 13.6V and I've lived with it for 7 years. You just have to be careful to not let it boil your battery.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks for the heads up

According to the description and video, it's IQ4 compatible
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
BFL13 wrote:
2112 wrote:
WOW that IOTA is a deal. I grabbed 1 to replace my WFCO junk. 30A is all I need.

The IQ4 upgrade is $20 on Amazon

Thanks for sharing


There was an Iota about 12 years ago ( ISTR it was in Jaycos) that did not have the jack hole (whatever that is called) for the IQ4 (which used/uses the same jack hole for the booster jack they had.)

So be sure this one has the place to plug in the jack if you want an IQ4 to go with it. They have a new range of IQ4s now, for different charging profiles you can choose from.


Data sheet for this model HERE says it has the jack..

From the data sheet..

"Dual Voltage jack allows for manual selection
between Normal and Absorption Phase
charging as well as easy installation of the
IQ4 Smart Charge Controller

Can be used with the optional IQ Smart Charge
Controller for automatic multi-stage charging to
prevent battery sulfation and stratification"


And directly from Goldmines own page..

"Note: This unit is not a smart charger without the purchase of an optional IQ-4 Smart Controllers."

So, from everything I can tell, it will accept the IQ-4..

Although you are welcome to contact the vendor to confirm before ordering..

Actually was considering buying one myself, would make a real nice power supply for my Ham equipment plus the bonus of multi stage charging if I add a battery for backup purposes.. Dedicated 30A 12V power supplies do not come cheap..

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
2112 wrote:
WOW that IOTA is a deal. I grabbed 1 to replace my WFCO junk. 30A is all I need.

The IQ4 upgrade is $20 on Amazon

Thanks for sharing


There was an Iota about 12 years ago ( ISTR it was in Jaycos) that did not have the jack hole (whatever that is called) for the IQ4 (which used/uses the same jack hole for the booster jack they had.)

So be sure this one has the place to plug in the jack if you want an IQ4 to go with it. They have a new range of IQ4s now, for different charging profiles you can choose from.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
WOW that IOTA is a deal. I grabbed 1 to replace my WFCO junk. 30A is all I need.

The IQ4 upgrade is $20 on Amazon

Thanks for sharing
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
In the mean time..

Until you figure out if you have a converter or if it is fixable you can add another one on, will not hurt things as it is right now since it is obvious that your battery is not getting any charging voltage..

Found a good deal on a deck mounted Iota 30A 12V converter in the electronic surplus stores.. for $39.95!

HERE



These are being sold as used because they are "pulls" from equipment that was not sold and the power cord has been cut and modified (you will need to add a plug).

These converters do not include the IQ-4 smart controller which turn it into a multistage charger. Without the IQ-4 it is set at a fixed 13.6 voltage.

New 30A converters will set you back well over $100..

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would test the converter out put first to see if it is working or you just have a bad battery. What is the voltage reading across the pos and neg terminals of the battery when it is plugged in? What is the reading when the TT is unplugged taken the next day? In your photo take a reading from the large red wire to ground to ground while TT is plugged in. If you report back with these voltage readings you can help you determine if there is something wrong with your converter or your battery. The old Magnatec converters are very simple constant chargers and last a long time.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
CA Traveler wrote:
The function of a charger is to charge and maintain the battery and wire loss is also a factor. The charger therefore should be close to the batteries or be connected with larger wire.


On this CA we agree it should be as close to the batteries as possible (But not in the same air space)

On My coach it was dang near as far away as possible (To be farther it would have had to be inside the "House" part and not in the basement) Batteries were right, near front, under steps.. path went through battery control center FRONT over (in front of firewall) Converter Driver's side rear wall of rear most compartment .... What were thy stinking? I don't know. but for sure not thinking
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
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2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
It would not be outside.

Gdetrailer gave you some good places to look. He is correct that some manufacturers use the circuit breaker he illustrated as a convenient terminal block.

Start at the positive battery terminal and work your way back, following each wire. You should find that breaker. Follow any wires connected to it. Your emergency brake switch would be in this path as well.

There is a good chance a previous owner removed it. The electrical tape wrapped on the bundle in your last pic doesn't look factory installed

Look at the bright side, you're learning a lot about your trailer ๐Ÿ™‚
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
You would have to go back to early 1970s, possibly 1960s to find trailers that did not have a"converter/charger"..

Time to do a deep search following the wiring up to the tongue.

You most certainly should have a converter unless a previous owner removed it.

Is one of the breakers marked converter?

If so, find EVERY outlet on that circuit breaker, that converter will be plugged into one of the outlets on that circuit..

Do you have any storage compartments up front near the battery?

If so, converter might be there..

Have a front passthrough storage compartment?

Converter might be in there..

Have dinette seats?

Look UNDER the dinette seats, converter may be there..

Look under your kitchen cabinets, might be under there..

On the outside, check the tongue for extra connections from the battery, there often is a little silver box with two terminal studs, that is a circuit breaker for safety.

Looks like this..



Circuit breaker often is used for a place to add extra wires like converter or tongue jack and they only run one wire to the battery. Then trace the wires from the breaker..

You are going to have to look at every nook and cranny in all of the lower base cabinets, under beds, under the stove, under the fridge, every single outside accessible storage area.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
The function of a charger is to charge and maintain the battery and wire loss is also a factor. The charger therefore should be close to the batteries or be connected with larger wire.

In your case the charger could be located elsewhere in the rig. Your red wire looks rather small and perhaps long and would therefore not allow much more than a trickle charge.
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Bob