Dometic Refer Recall - Possible Fire Hazard -Update 2/13/07

[MELM]

Click here to go directly to Updates.
Update Number 1 Nov 23, 2006
Update Number 2 Dec 5, 2006
Update Number 3 Jan 10, 2007
Update Number 4 Jan 19, 2007 - Recall Instructions - click here: Dometic Recall You need your model and serial numbers.
Update Number 5 Feb 13, 2007 - Added links to new info on the NHTSA website including the info/form for claiming reimbursement for a failure. These are at the end of the post below where all the updates are posted.

Also, edited the below Recall to include the change made prior to the Dec 5 update showing the proposed remedy.

Below is information from the NHTSA website on a recall of certain Dometic refrigerators. This recall is in its very early stages, and there is no resolution in place as of Nov 1, 2006.

From the NHTSA website:

Dometic Recall NHTSA Campaign ID 06E076000

Make / Models : Model/Build Years:
DOMETIC / NDR1062 9999
DOMETIC / RM2652 9999
DOMETIC / RM2662 9999
DOMETIC / RM2663 9999
DOMETIC / RM2852 9999
DOMETIC / RM2862 9999
DOMETIC / RM3662 9999
DOMETIC / RM3663 9999
DOMETIC / RM3862 9999
DOMETIC / RM3863 9999

Manufacturer : DOMETIC CORPORATION

NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number : 06E076000 Mfg's Report Date : AUG 28, 2006

Component: EQUIPMENT: RECREATIONAL VEHICLE

Potential Number Of Units Affected : 926877

Summary:
CERTAIN DOMETIC TWO-DOOR REFRIGERATORS MANUFACTURED BETWEEN APRIL 1997 AND MAY 2003: SERIAL NOS.
713XXXXX THROUGH 752XXXXX;
801XXXXX THROUGH 852XXXXX;
901XXXXX THROUGH 952XXXXX;
001XXXXX THROUGH 052XXXXX;
101XXXXX THROUGH 152XXXXX;
201XXXXX THROUGH 252XXXXX;
301XXXXX THROUGH 319XXXXX,
INSTALLED IN CERTAIN RECREATIONAL VEHICLES AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND SOLD AS AFTERMARKET EQUIPMENT. A FATIGUE CRACK MAY DEVELOP IN THE BOILER TUBE WHICH MAY RELEASE A SUFFICIENT AMOUNT OF PRESSURIZED COOLANT SOLUTION INTO AN AREA WHERE AN IGNITION SOURCE (GAS FLAME) IS PRESENT.

Consequence:
THE RELEASE OF COOLANT UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS COULD IGNITE AND RESULT IN A FIRE.

Remedy:
THE VEHICLE MANUFACTURERS WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF RECREATIONAL VEHICLES THAT HAD THE REFRIGERATORS INSTALLED AS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT AND DOMETIC WILL NOTIFY OWNERS OF THE AFTERMARKET REFRIGERATORS. DOMETIC WILL INSTALL A SECONDARY BURNER HOUSING FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN BETWEEN APRIL AND JUNE 2007. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DOMETIC AT 888-446-5157.

Notes:
CUSTOMERS MAY CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY ADMINISTRATION'S VEHICLE SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-888-327-4236 (TTY: 1-800-424-9153); OR GO TO HTTP://WWW.SAFERCAR.GOV.

The following is extracted from the notice provided by Dometic to the NHTSA dated 8/26/06:

The potential defect is associated with cooling unit at the back of the refrigeration cabinet.

A fractional percentage of the potentially affected refrigerators have experienced a fatigue crack that may develop in the boiler tube in the area of the weld between the boiler tube and the heater pocket. A fatigue crack may release a sufficient amount of pressurized coolant solution into an area where an ignition source (gas flame) is present. Dometic's investigation has shown that a simulated release of cooling solution (refrigerant) in the area of the boiler, under certain conditions, could be ignited by the presence of an open flame. A boiler fatigue crack with the loss of cooling solution without ignition would result in a non-operational refrigerator that is not a safety issue. Under certain conditions, the released coolant could ignite and result in a fire. In order to have a fire, at a minimum, all of the following conditions must exist:

1. The refrigerator must be on and normally operating and gas burner must be lit;
2. 'There must be an oversized heating element in the refrigerator;
3. The boiler tube must develop a throughway fatigue crack of a
specific size;
4. There must be a release of the cooling solution at a rate which will
allow the accumulation of the cooling solution at a concentration within its range of flammability; and
5. There must be ignition source (gas flame) present.

If any of these conditions are not present, a release of the cooling solution will not result in a fire.

In April of 1997 Dometic modified the design of the affected refrigerators by increasing the wattage of the heating element from 325 watts to 354 watts. All production of the affected units from April 1997 through May of 2003 utilized the 354 watt heating element. In May of 2003, in order to improve the operating life of the refrigerators, Dometic returned to the use of the 325 watt heating element which it continues to use today. It is now believed that the use of the higher wattage heater contributed to abnormal fatigue in the boiler tube.

The products in question are all refrigerators used in the original manufacture of recreation vehicles or as replacement equipment for recreation vehicles. The total population of refrigerators potentially containing the defect is 926,877. Dometic estimates a potential maximum incident rate of 0.01% related to boiler fatigue cracks that leak and may result in a fire. There have been no incidents of injury or death related to the affected population of Dometic refrigerators.

Dometic became aware of the occurrence of fires which may have involved their products and retained an independent engineering testing laboratory to fully evaluate and investigate any potential defect in their refrigerators which might result in a fire. A number of returned units were analyzed and microscopic fatigue cracks which could release coolant into the area of the burner were identified in the boiler tube metal in the area of the weld between the heater pocket and boiler tube. Tests simulating the cracks were conducted the week of August 18, 2006 and confirmed a possible cause of fire in the refrigerators under certain conditions. These test results prompted the preparation of this notice.

Dometic continues to gather information on the potential defect and will forward additional relevant information as it becomes available.

Dometic has not yet identified a proposed remedy for the potential defect. Dometic will continue a testing program designed to identify and evaluate possible remedies. This evaluation will take place both in the United States and in Sweden. Once a remedy has been identified, Dometic will initiate or participate in a remedy campaign initiated by the original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers who have purchased, sold, and distributed these products. A list of original equipment manufacturers and aftermarket suppliers to whom Dometic has sold the potentially defective refrigerators is being prepared and will be provided to the NHTSA upon its
completion.

The following is extracted from the NHTSA response on 9/18/06:

Please provide the following additional information and be reminded of the following requirements:

Dometic must provide an estimated dealer notification date as well as an owner notification date including the day, month, and year. You are required to submit a draft owner notification letter to this office no less than five days prior to mailing it to the customers. Also, copies of all notices, bulletins, dealer notifications, and other communications that relate to this recall, including a copy of the final owner notification letter and any subsequent owner follow-up notification letter(s), are required to be submitted to this office no later than 5 days after they are originally sent (if they are sent to more than one manufacturer, distributor, dealer, or purchaser/owner).

Dometic must file a sample of the envelope which you intend to use to mail the recall notice to owners. The words "SAFETY", "RECALL", "NOTICE" in any order must be printed on the envelope in larger font than the customers name and address.

[charlan]

I had the recall done on my fridge and the first time I went to use it on electric it's not working, it sounds as if it trying to use propane as it clicks a few times and then I get the CHECK light, I have the propane bottles turned off.
Any ideas? could they have wired it wrong?:E

[Irelands_child]

kerryedwards wrote:

Irelands child wrote:
QUOTEI will check mine shortly but as an interim "roadside fix" in case of an unexpected failure can the diode be bypassed and the reefer run without it in the circuit. I would expect that I could lift the two wires from the device, connect them together and operate the reefer until a proper repair could be made (these kind of failures usually happen, in my experience, on a Saturday evening 200 miles from the closest RV shop)

Yes.....Dometic will have a fit if you tell them you are doing this.
Does anyone know an on-line source for these thermal fuses or diodes?

Thanks - and quite frankly - I really do not care if Dometic pitches a fit - they wont be to ones that have the failure on a dark and stormy Saturday evening 200 miles from civilization(and an RV Dealer)with a reefer full of perishables (and my beer)

[cvrvr]

My "kit" was installed by Camping World. I finally got a chance to take the cover off and look at the installation. The cutoff fuse and bracket is behind the boiler tube, almost not accessible. It would be very difficult to bend the ears away from the boiler tube.

George

[timsrv]

I'm thinking it can't be too much different from the thermal cut-off Atwood water heaters use (Atwood part number 93866). I'm not condoning this as a permanent repair, but in a pinch might be better than bypassing completely. Tim

[kerryedwards]

Irelands child wrote:
QUOTEI will check mine shortly but as an interim "roadside fix" in case of an unexpected failure can the diode be bypassed and the reefer run without it in the circuit. I would expect that I could lift the two wires from the device, connect them together and operate the reefer until a proper repair could be made (these kind of failures usually happen, in my experience, on a Saturday evening 200 miles from the closest RV shop)

Yes. Fuse is in the red hot line going from the limit switch to the circuit board. It's covered with a black rubber material. Simply slide back the black rubber and jump a piece of wire around the fuse (it looks like a diode). Wire is bare at each end of the diode so it is a simple repair.
Dometic will have a fit if you tell them you are doing this.
Does anyone know an on-line source for these thermal fuses or diodes?

[Community Alumni]

Chris Bryant wrote:
I'll try to get a picture- basically, I just bend it down a bit so it isn't touching any metal, but it's still right next to the burner.
The way it's installed the end of the fuse rests against the boiler and/or bottom of the heating element.

I checked mine this afternoon and I found that the bracket holding the fusible wire was up against the 'stovepipe'. Looking at it, it seemed logical that I just bend the wire cradle tab down so it doesn't touch any of the metal on the stovepipe.

Actually looking at the picture, both tabs are curled under to hold the wire (like claws); my tabs are curled up so that the wire is in plain view sitting in them (like a cradle).

[Chris_Bryant]

I'll try to get a picture- basically, I just bend it down a bit so it isn't touching any metal, but it's still right next to the burner.
Here's a pic from the installation instructions:

The way it's installed the end of the fuse rests against the boiler and/or bottom of the heating element.

[Empty_Nest__Soo]

Chris Bryant wrote:
Now I know to bend the bracket and fuse so it is well clear of the boiler and heating element :(.

Chris,

Can you clarify "well clear," please?

I assume the principal point of the thermal fuse is to stop the flow of gas if the fridge catches fire while running on gas. There wouldn't seem to be a safety related need for the fridge to shut off if running on electric.

Since I use my fridge on gas 98% of the time, I realize I need the fuse for safety reasons, but I don't want it blowing while the fridge is operating normally.

I'm guessing that the fuse need not be especially close to the boiler if it is intended to be blown by the flames from a coolant fire. Almost anywhere inside the containment shield would seem to be adequate.

Am I missing something here?

Wayne

[Phils]

Chris,

Your posts on this thread have been invaluable!! Thank you for giving your time to help the rest of us.

On the fuse location: would it do any good for you to explain this little positioning error to Dometic? Or would it be futile because their "engineers" know so much better than some field tech?

Seems like this fuse location problem will be causing more problems for us RV owners and from kerryedward's post, Dometic isn't volunteering much about it.

Phil

[Community Alumni]

Chris Bryant wrote:

Now I know to bend the bracket and fuse so it is well clear of the boiler and heating element :(.

Chris,
You wouldn't have a picture would you?

My next venture is 5 days at the Watkins Glen NASCAR race (Aug 9-13) and I will be running the fridge on gas the entire time after which we're off to Myrtle Beach for 2 weeks where we'll be on electric.

[Irelands_child]

QUOTE I've had 2 of the recalls I did fail this way- that's actually a thermal fuse, but they way the bracket is designed, it rests against hot metal. The fuse is rated at 152°C, and the limit switch is 130°C.

Now I know to bend the bracket and fuse so it is well clear of the boiler and heating element 🙂 QUOTE

I will check mine shortly but as an interim "roadside fix" in case of an unexpected failure can the diode be bypassed and the reefer run without it in the circuit. I would expect that I could lift the two wires from the device, connect them together and operate the reefer until a proper repair could be made (these kind of failures usually happen, in my experience, on a Saturday evening 200 miles from the closest RV shop)

[Skeet25]

hyrax,
Mine failed just as yours did. Contacted Dometic and explained that mine was on the recall list and that it had leaked fluid and would not cool. Was told to take unit to a Dometic Service Center and have them inspect the unit and contact them. Took RV to a CW about 10 miles away. They determined that the boiler tube failed and resulted in the leak. Dometic replaced with a new fridge at no cost to me.
Dometic has a Reimbursement Program. If you contact them at 1-888-446-5157 and request Form O6E-076. Follow directions and you will probably get most if not all of your money back.
Good Luck.

[timsrv]

hyrax, I run a repair business and it's been my experience that Dometic will replace that cooling core free of charge. The stipulation is that the failure needs to be recall related. The biggest problem my customers are having right now is getting new cooling cores. Whenever I try to get a free one for a recall or warranty job, there is a 5 - 7 week waiting period (Dometic claims back-order problems). So far I haven't had any problems getting these same cores I'm paying for, but those are coming through my wholesale distributor (not directly through Dometic). I have had 2 customers now that could have been covered under recall rules, but they just gave up and purchased new refers using their own money. It was simply more important for them to have a working refer right away than to deal with Dometic for 2 months.

You can get an RM2862 (that will fit correctly) for around $1,100. If you must have the NDR1062, those should be priced under $1,600. If you need an ice maker, both are available with that option, but that will add another $200. There can be variables on installation, but the average cost should be around $150 - $200. If you're simply having a new cooling core installed, the total cost (pts & lab) should not exceed $1,000. Good luck with your problem. Tim

[Irelands_child]

hyrax wrote:
Firstly, many thanks to so many of you guys that obviously really know what you're talking about on this hugely informative forum.

My DOMETIC refer quit last week (we use it exclusively on AC). .....and I don't see Dometic helping out on this at all. Maybe I'm just whinning here but anybody have a suggestion?

If indeed it was on the recall list and you hadn't been notified you for sure have a complaint situation with Dometic (and even if you did get notified). I suggest you read up on some of these 70 odd pages and get a flavor for what Dometic will do - for ~$2300 for one of their crappy overpriced reefers (read {near} monopoly in the world's RV market maybe??) you do need some satisfaction from them - at least an argument and a threat of a lawsuit.

[Chris_Bryant]

kerryedwards wrote:
Had the recall fix done. After 4 days of use, frig failed. No lights at all so I figured it was a lack of power. Called Camping World which did the fix and asked them if anything in the recall work would cut the power. Answer was no. After waiting for 20 minutes to talk to a tech, I gave up and called Dometic. Asked the tech there if anything in the recall would cause frig to lose power. Was told no, and that I probably had a bad circuit board. Didn't really believe this given the timing so started doing some investigating. Found power going to the initial wire going to the frig but no power coming out from the same wire once it disappeared behind the additional metal work. Disassembled the recall metal and found a failed diode which had been added during the recall.
Called back Dometic and they finally admitted that the failed diode (thermal fuse) would cause a power failure. I then tried to figure out if the diode failed due to overheating or a bad diode. Measured the temperature of the burner (running with the diode jumped) on propane at a high of 300 degrees in one small spot with most of the chimney surrounding the burner in the 150-200 degree range. (measured with an infrared thermometer) Called Dometic and tried to get them to tell me what the normal operating temperatures were. They refused to tell me. I argued with them for about half an hour. Got nowhere. Called them back the next day and kept insisting that I wanted the info (which they denied they had) since I suspected that they had installed a diode that would fail at a low temperature to further limit their liabiities. Finally they told me that 300 degrees was a safe operating temperature.
Since I was 4 days into a month long roadtrip, I had to pay $85 for a service call for a tech to replace the failed diode. The diode was installed within about one inch of the hot portion of the burner chimney. Tech said diode was installed too close and failed because of this.
So, be warmed, the recall can cause the frig to fail and Dometic will deny that the recall had anything to do with it. It is in their interest to deny the connection and get the consumer to replace their frig since it takes a frig which is a liability to them out of service.
I would like to know the exact temperatures at which the diode is designed to fail and also the temperatures of the limit switch which is installed in the burner chimney.

I've had 2 of the recalls I did fail this way- that's actually a thermal fuse, but they way the bracket is designed, it rests against hot metal. The fuse is rated at 152°C, and the limit switch is 130°C.

Now I know to bend the bracket and fuse so it is well clear of the boiler and heating element :(.