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Easy startup for A.C.

jjj
Explorer
Explorer
I was recently scrolling you tube for info on A.C. easy starts and
came across easy startup plug in version. It was pretty interesting
that it is a plug in at the post and is blue tooth so you can
watch what is going on and is also a surge protector and will
monitor you voltage spikes. A little pricey but if you sell your
trailer you can take it with you. I was just wondering
if anyone has bought one yet and your thoughts.
2002 F-350 Crew-Cab Dually
V-10-4.30 gears Mag-Hytec diff.cover
w/Amsoil-6.0 trans cooler Curt Q5 20K hitch & bedsaver
2005 Keystone Challenger 34TBH-Fifth Airbourn
15 REPLIES 15

Skibane
Explorer II
Explorer II
theoldwizard1 wrote:
People are hung up on the fact that the Easy Start is mounted directly to the starting capacitor and A/C motor windings. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHERE IS MOUNTED !


If it didn't matter, Micro-Air would have simply instructed users to connect it to the AC supply for the air conditioner - at any point.

There would be no need to open the A/C shroud - or even any need to go up on the roof.

You really think they'd make the installation process any more difficult than necessary?

THE LOCATION MATTERS.

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
The control circuit needs to switch in (relay?) a small value (LARGE power rating) resistor (probably a piece of copper wire) "in line".
NTC thermistors were often used rather than a high wattage resistor.
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

MNRon
Explorer
Explorer
I believe that the MicroAire attached to the AC also provides some timing lockouts to prevent fan and compressor coming on at the same time etc. More options available when itโ€™s wired in directly than just at post. Thats probably why SoftStarts ads refer to AC mounted as reducing surged current by 70% while shore post mounted only reduces 50%.
Ron & Pat
2022 F350 Lariat CCSB SRW Diesel
2019 VanLeigh Vilano 320 GK

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
For you DIY EE, the "block diagram" on making your own easy start would be something like this :c

Detect that out have an "abnormal" current draw. Either a current sense transformer or a full wave bridge (filtered, into a resistor divider into you control circuit) across the "hot" lead.

The control circuit needs to switch in (relay?) a small value (LARGE power rating) resistor (probably a piece of copper wire) "in line".

Don't worry too much about the "resistor" power factor, it is only going to be in line for about 1 second.

After that 1 second, the relay open (the NC contacts close) and "ob la di, ob la da, life goes on" and any addition over current is handled by the main fuse/circuit breaker.

Like any good DIYer, there needs to be some "trial and error". Try some current detection circuits (the current transformer could be like 10 turns around the hot wire). If you use a relay, the contacts need to be seriously over rated (100A minimum). The "speed" of the relay could be an issue. You don't want to current limit too long as that starting capacitor is going to discharge one it is full enough.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
wa8yxm wrote:
EZ Starts are very easy to install.

This plug in unit looks like it might be a power factor correction device Those are good too but I'm not sure they would qualify as an Easy Start.

A "true" easy start/soft start simply limits the inrush current required to charge the starting capacitor. This can be done with a current limiting resistor or by modifying the shape of the wave (shrink/chop).

People are hung up on the fact that the Easy Start is mounted directly to the starting capacitor and A/C motor windings. IT DOES NOT MATTER WHERE IS MOUNTED ! It just needs to detect that there is a sudden spike in current above a certain amount and then limit that current ! (This "spike" is so short and so fast that a typical fuse or circuit breaker can not respond.)

I remember "ELI the ICE man" ! My concentration was on digital circuits so I did not retain much about power electrical. I know industrial locations get a surcharge from the PoCo it there power factor is out of whack. I always thought power factor correction was a 3 phase "thing".

Good ole ELI.

Met him in 1967 in Navy electronics school.
2015 Crossroads Rushmore Springfield
2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD Duramax

2112
Explorer II
Explorer II
ELI the ICE man

Say that to a young EE today and they are clueless what you are taking about. That phrase must have been a 70s thing.

They have an app for that though
2011 Ford F-150 EcoBoost SuperCab Max Tow, 2084# Payload, 11,300# Tow,
Timbrens
2013 KZ Durango 2857

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
I preferred the autoformer to the easy start.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
EZ Starts are very easy to install.

This plug in unit looks like it might be a power factor correction device Those are good too but I'm not sure they would qualify as an Easy Start.

I've used them with some hardware (A dehumidifier) and it made a significant improvement in the unit's overall power needs.. A re-charge helped it to work better too (This is a refrigeration device like an air conditioner) back then you could by what you need to make it rechargeable at a hardware.

But will it work for "Soft Start".. Well.. Perhaps a little..
(The PF-correcors work by adjusting voltage to bring Voltage and current into phase.. Normally on a Motor (like an air conditioner) ELI the ICE man plays havoc with the relationship between Voltage and Current (ELI Voltage Leads on an Inductive load) so the correction device lowers the voltage or it can add some ICE (Current leads in a Capacitive load) Or Capacitance.

I do have a 2nd hand story about that.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
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theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Skibane wrote:

theoldwizard1 wrote:
In theory, a easy start could be wired as a dog bone between the post an the RV power cord.


No, it connects to several specific points inside the A/C, including the compressor run capacitor.

As a retired Electrical Engineer, I know it can be done !

Remember the old saying, "There is more than one way to skin a cat !". All you have to do is limit the "in rush" current used to charge the starting capacitor.

agesilaus
Explorer III
Explorer III
OK I've been interested in this since I saw Mike Sokol's video Not sure if it's the same brand but here is the link to it:
Softstartup RV

I cannot find it on Amazon the price is probably somewhere on that website. Yup $600, I'll do the wiring I already have a Progressive surge protector
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Superbumper

Skibane
Explorer II
Explorer II
jjj wrote:
A little pricey but if you sell your trailer you can take it with you.


https://softstartup.com/products/

At $600, it's twice as expensive as a Micro-Air EasyStart 364.

If I sell my trailer, I'm either taking the EasyStart with me, or rolling it into the trailer's selling price - Buyer's choice.

The fact that the Softstartup subjects every 120 volt device inside your RV to a waveform which has been modified to reduce the startup surge of the air conditioner is a deal-breaker for me.

There are sound technical reasons why the Micro-Air connects at specific points inside the A/C unit itself, rather than simply at its AC power wires.

The way Micro-Air does it makes the installation process a little more involved - but is probably worth it, IMO.

theoldwizard1 wrote:
In theory, a easy start could be wired as a dog bone between the post an the RV power cord.


No, it connects to several specific points inside the A/C, including the compressor run capacitor.

Coleman Mach connection:

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
In theory, a easy start could be wired as a dog bone between the post an the RV power cord.

bgum
Explorer
Explorer
$600