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FIXED Dometic RM 2310 needs repair to run on propane

steveh27
Explorer
Explorer
This unit is in my 1997 Xplorer 230XL. I have used it 63 nights so far this year. While in FLA Feb & Mar I mostly boondocked and had it on propane. I could only get the piezo lighter to work twice. Not sure if it's the gap or needs a new part. So most of the time to light it I opened the side and removed the burner cover to see the burner. Then while pressing the propane button on the front I would reach around the outside with a long lighter. Once lit it would run for weeks until I switched to electric or 12 volt.

Back In MI on Easter I tried to light it that way ANd cold not seem to get the inside propane button to go all the way in. I pushed so hard the whole fridge unit seemed to move out 1/4-1/2" or so. The end of the burner compartment has rusted off & just lays on the bottom. But it worked fine that way in FLA. Luckily I was able to plug in to electric & it worked fine. It also worked fine on 12 volt while driving. It does seem like it might not be lined up correctly with the interior push rods.

I hope AN RV shop can fix this. I do not want to replace it with a newer model which all have electronic controls and draw house battery power while on propane. Most of my time is boondocking.




Any thoughts?
6 REPLIES 6

steveh27
Explorer
Explorer
FIXED fridge!!!

I took it to an rv shop & they would not touch it due to liability, but they did explain how it was secured. The bottom of the flue has 2 wings that a part in the burner box turns on & locks all into place. That part was still decent though rusty. One of the flue wings had rusted away & the other was weak. So the burner box had dropped away from the flue and was moving. The push rods from the interior buttons were not lined up.

I was able to get that part to latch onto the 1 flue wing and turn it to latch into place. But it is weak & would not hold up to the interior buttons pushing. I mounted a 90 degree bracket (which I had to open a bit) to the burner box with a bolt and then screw into the bottom. It is very solid and on the 1st try the piezo lighter lit the propane burner - sweet!

I would have replaced it with the new model, but with their electronic controls running on propane would draw 1.5 - 2.5 amps, way too much for my boondocking. This rm2310 draws noting on propane.

These pics are with the burner box cover removed. It is back on now.
This shows the part that locks it in place.


This shows the bracket securing it:


Hope it lasts.

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Guess not.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Quote this and replace yours.

"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

DFord
Explorer
Explorer
It looks to me like rust has done it work on this unit and it's nearing or already has pasted its end of life.
Don Ford
2004 Safari Trek 31SBD (F53/V10 20,500GVW)
'09 HHR 2LT or '97 Aerostar MiniVan (Remco driveshaft disconnect) for Towed vehicles
BlueOx Aventa II Towbar - ReadyBrake Inertia Brake System

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Hard to tell with picture so large (ask moderator to correct it)....


But your spark gap is WAY to big

Tip of electrode to burner should be 3/16".....directly over slots
See pg 10

Service Manual that covers your 2310





Manual with exploded view of fridge components
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

steveh27
Explorer
Explorer
Sorry for the gigantic pic.