Furnace - propane stop/start during its on cycle?

[groundhogy]

Yes the furnace will come on.
Then sounds like the flame goes out, and then lights back up, all during the on cycle. Fan continues to run. Furnace completed its cycle ok.
Pending doom? Lol

Its a Dometic AFMD30141
May also have an Atwood number. Maybe 32684.

[dougrainer]

StirCrazy wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:
probably a rech, has anyone played with the anticipation setting in the thermostate. when I got my camper it was short cycling like crazy then I looked at that and set it back yp to factory andit works good. trying to figure out what I can replace it with now that I don't have to buy from a rv shop that maybe will be a little better at the heat swing.

Steve

If you have an electronic Tstat, there is no anticipator setting. Doug

where did you see it mentioned that he had an electronic Tstat? and if it is a digital, then you are adjusting the Cycle rate... same results different name.
Steve

He stated a Dometic Model number instead of Atwood(Dometic purchased Atwood). That tells me he has a less than 10 year furnace and almost ALL RV's use a electronic wall tstat now. Only inexpensive cheap RV's use the old style bi metal wall furnace tstat. HOW do you adjust the cycle rate on an electronic wall tstat? What do you mean by CYCLE RATE? The CCC2 Dometic has a TEMP DIFFERENTIAL setting of plus or minus 2. Doug

real cheep ones probably have a set cycle rate, and knowing the rv industry :B most likly its getting into the programable ones to get access to the cycle rate.

Im trying to find a good 12V two wire one for my old hydroflam in my camper. some one butchered the insides of the old one playing with the antisapator setting and I have it working reasonable again but I want to upgrade it. anything I find that is good they want a fortune for up here.

ANY Brand bi metal wall furnace tstat will work. They are just a metal coil with 2 wires and that Anticipator coil. Doug

https://pantherrvproducts.com/32300/?gclid=CjwKCAiAvaGRBhBlEiwAiY-yMIYIyWBHfT-odi9OgJBbxraguN-gkX1Us...

[StirCrazy]

dougrainer wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:
probably a rech, has anyone played with the anticipation setting in the thermostate. when I got my camper it was short cycling like crazy then I looked at that and set it back yp to factory andit works good. trying to figure out what I can replace it with now that I don't have to buy from a rv shop that maybe will be a little better at the heat swing.

Steve

If you have an electronic Tstat, there is no anticipator setting. Doug

where did you see it mentioned that he had an electronic Tstat? and if it is a digital, then you are adjusting the Cycle rate... same results different name.
Steve

He stated a Dometic Model number instead of Atwood(Dometic purchased Atwood). That tells me he has a less than 10 year furnace and almost ALL RV's use a electronic wall tstat now. Only inexpensive cheap RV's use the old style bi metal wall furnace tstat. HOW do you adjust the cycle rate on an electronic wall tstat? What do you mean by CYCLE RATE? The CCC2 Dometic has a TEMP DIFFERENTIAL setting of plus or minus 2. Doug

real cheep ones probably have a set cycle rate, and knowing the rv industry :B most likly its getting into the programable ones to get access to the cycle rate.

Im trying to find a good 12V two wire one for my old hydroflam in my camper. some one butchered the insides of the old one playing with the antisapator setting and I have it working reasonable again but I want to upgrade it. anything I find that is good they want a fortune for up here.

[dougrainer]

StirCrazy wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:
probably a rech, has anyone played with the anticipation setting in the thermostate. when I got my camper it was short cycling like crazy then I looked at that and set it back yp to factory andit works good. trying to figure out what I can replace it with now that I don't have to buy from a rv shop that maybe will be a little better at the heat swing.

Steve

If you have an electronic Tstat, there is no anticipator setting. Doug

where did you see it mentioned that he had an electronic Tstat? and if it is a digital, then you are adjusting the Cycle rate... same results different name.
Steve

He stated a Dometic Model number instead of Atwood(Dometic purchased Atwood). That tells me he has a less than 10 year furnace and almost ALL RV's use a electronic wall tstat now. Only inexpensive cheap RV's use the old style bi metal wall furnace tstat. HOW do you adjust the cycle rate on an electronic wall tstat? What do you mean by CYCLE RATE? The CCC2 Dometic has a TEMP DIFFERENTIAL setting of plus or minus 2. Doug

[StirCrazy]

dougrainer wrote:

StirCrazy wrote:
probably a rech, has anyone played with the anticipation setting in the thermostate. when I got my camper it was short cycling like crazy then I looked at that and set it back yp to factory andit works good. trying to figure out what I can replace it with now that I don't have to buy from a rv shop that maybe will be a little better at the heat swing.

Steve

If you have an electronic Tstat, there is no anticipator setting. Doug

where did you see it mentioned that he had an electronic Tstat? and if it is a digital, then you are adjusting the Cycle rate... same results different name.
Steve

[dougrainer]

StirCrazy wrote:
probably a rech, has anyone played with the anticipation setting in the thermostate. when I got my camper it was short cycling like crazy then I looked at that and set it back yp to factory andit works good. trying to figure out what I can replace it with now that I don't have to buy from a rv shop that maybe will be a little better at the heat swing.

Steve

If you have an electronic Tstat, there is no anticipator setting. Doug

[StirCrazy]

probably a rech, has anyone played with the anticipation setting in the thermostate. when I got my camper it was short cycling like crazy then I looked at that and set it back yp to factory andit works good. trying to figure out what I can replace it with now that I don't have to buy from a rv shop that maybe will be a little better at the heat swing.

Steve

[dougrainer]

Gdetrailer wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
"Regulator malfunction can result in higher propane pressure to the furnace which affects flame size.. Check the burners on your stove, flame should not be excessively high and should be all blue".

This will not work. The Stoves/Ovens have their own regulator set at 10 inches water column. So if the LP regulator is too high this regulator will fix that for the Oven/Stove. Doug

RV furnace gas valve also has "it's own" regulator same as a home gas furnace and even home gas stove and oven, but those also can be affected by the incoming gas pressure if it is too high or too low..

No it does NOT. It only has a 2 stage electric LP solenoid valve. But that is not a "regulator". The only appliance in an RV with its OWN regulator is the Oven/Range. Doug

[Dusty_R]

Also the squirrel cage fan can get dirty and cause it to not move enough air.

[JKJavelin]

Mine seems to do this more in higher elevations. At sea level, it runs steady.
JK

[time2roll]

Gdetrailer wrote:

time2roll wrote:
My OEM ducting was inadequate. I added 2x 4" additional ducts and the furnace works so much better with tons more heat and the burner stays on the entire cycle.

I believe OP has had this RV for a while and this IS a recently new "symptom".. If I am correct, that would make the assumption of not enough ducting not much of an issue unless a new blockage has been introduced (like a blanket covering a register?)..

OK and mine malfunctioned for almost ten years before I dug in and fixed it.

[Gdetrailer]

time2roll wrote:
My OEM ducting was inadequate. I added 2x 4" additional ducts and the furnace works so much better with tons more heat and the burner stays on the entire cycle.

I believe OP has had this RV for a while and this IS a recently new "symptom".. If I am correct, that would make the assumption of not enough ducting not much of an issue unless a new blockage has been introduced (like a blanket covering a register?)..

[Gdetrailer]

dougrainer wrote:
"Regulator malfunction can result in higher propane pressure to the furnace which affects flame size.. Check the burners on your stove, flame should not be excessively high and should be all blue".

This will not work. The Stoves/Ovens have their own regulator set at 10 inches water column. So if the LP regulator is too high this regulator will fix that for the Oven/Stove. Doug

RV furnace gas valve also has "it's own" regulator same as a home gas furnace and even home gas stove and oven, but those also can be affected by the incoming gas pressure if it is too high or too low..

[groundhogy]

Cat hair and lint blocking incoming air?
Its just a bunch of slats in the furnace box

[time2roll]

My OEM ducting was inadequate. I added 2x 4" additional ducts and the furnace works so much better with tons more heat and the burner stays on the entire cycle.