jodeb720 wrote:
GDE -
as you aaid, it's all about compromise. What I'm starting to wonder is when we're going to see someone install a minisplit - not the back, but mounted on the roof with two zones. that will be a game changer - because of the efficiency of the Minisplits - and dual zones - plus the quiet. Of course, most are designed for 220 for dual zones - but it'll happen eventually.
I think your insulation has made 105 degree weather on a 20 amp circuit feasible. With an R3, there's almost no way to keep the heat out and the move the remaining heat outside. I ran into that a few years ago up in the Gold Country in central CA. it was 105 and no matter how early I ran the AC, it just couldn't move the BTU's outside the 5er as quickly as it gained it through the roof (and windows). upgrading that insulation will make all the difference.
And letting the relatives pay for the Electrical circuit... genius! ๐
Josh
Mini splits are offered in 120V versions but with the caveat of in lower BTU units, typically are offered in "heat pump" versions and compared to a RV roof mounted A/C more expensive.
Most likely will not see them as "factory" or "OEM" or dealer offerings either since it uses a "line set" and couplings that need connected, purged and filled. That would require the factory or dealer to have someone with a refrigerant license to handle the install and paperwork required. That adds additional cost burdens on the manufacturer and dealer in labor, licensing and paperwork that would have to be absorbed or passed on to the consumer in the form of a higher price of the unit..
You can buy DIY minisplits and install yourself without license, but those come with a preset lineset length with special connectors with valves and a precharged. Downside is on the average RV you will have to roll up the extra line or cut and silver solder then purge and refill the line (might require a refrigerant license to get the correct refrigerant needed for that unit).
Additionally unless you can find a non heat pump minisplit in 120V you are paying for a much more complex unit with electromechanical valves that tend to be the typical failure point.. Those valves tend to be problematic to source replacements and when that happens you scrap the entire unit for a new unit.
Mini splits also require additional holes to run the lines and wiring through plus a drain line for the inside wall unit.. More points to have water leaks as if RVs don't already have enough potential leaks..
As far as letting my relatives pay for the electricity goes when we stop and visit, I have many times offered to pay them, they consistently refused to take anything in exchange. They enjoy the time we visit, they appreciate the fact that we take some of our life and vacation time and money to stop and visit them. It is a long trip of 850 miles one way, they cannot afford to come visit us (where I would offer 100% free lodging, electric and food to them), they don't feel comfortable driving that distance and I can't blame them.. They give us great enjoyment and at the same time they get great enjoyment rolling out the "Southern hospitality". Because of this relationship, I am closer to them than my own brothers and sisters and those live within 5 minutes and 2.5hrs from me.
Shame on you for making it sound like I am sponging off or taking advantage of my relatives :M
