How critical is it to have a perfectly level trailer?

[neu]

Hello everyone,

I bought an adjustable trailer hitch, but I miscalculated and the maximum height is not enough to level the trailer. This hitch raises the height by 5 1/4 inches, but based on my calculations, I need an additional 1-2 inches of height to level the trailer. Is this critical or can I still tow the trailer as is?




UPDATE: I've read a few articles that say that I should better level it properly...
I don't know how to remove this question from the forum

[Durb]

It looks as though you are measuring tongue weight at the jack. Keep in mind the shank and hitch ball are resting in your receiver and their weight needs to be calculated in, probably using up your 35 pound margin.

Moving heavy items to the rear of your trailer to offset your tongue weight is problematic, especially with a single axle trailer. This practice will maintain your net tongue weight, but will also reduce your percent of weight on the tongue. This percentage number (12% - 15%) is critical in keeping sway under control. Theoretically, you could reduce your tongue weight to zero by selective loading. Not good, you would be all over the road.

[neu]

Reisender wrote:
Hi Neu. I am not a fan of packing heavy objects at the rear of the trailer to offset hitch weight. Instead just consider getting them over or slightly behind the axle. Packing heavy items at the very rear of the trailer can introduce a pendulum effect which can cause a sway situation.

Check your manual to see if Audi has a maximum height on how much the ball can be above the mount. I know some manufacturers do including tesla.

Even swapping out the lead acid 12 volt for a lithium battery can help the situation.

Is your Audi a Plug in hybrid or full electric?

Happy camping Neu.

Thank you for the tip! And if I place a heavy object in the back of the trailer to reduce the tongue weight to an acceptable level, is that a good idea or still a bad one?
I have a gasoline engine, not a hybrid, 2.0T with 252 hp and 370Nm of torque in stock.
Thanks for the tip on the lithium battery. My battery is actually on its last legs, so I have more than one reason to consider replacing it with a lithium one.
I don't have the user manual at hand, but I have a photo of the sticker on the hitch itself. It seems that the maximum height is 6 1/4. However, I'm not sure what they meant by 1/2. The diagram is confusing to me. Could you help clarify?

UPD: Aaah, now I understand. The maximum lifting height here is 1/2 inch. What am I supposed to do now? Can I drive with the trailer lowered down?
As far as I understand, with a single-axle trailer, I can tow it with the tongue tilted forward. I just need to remember about the tongue weight and the clearance.

[valhalla360]

neu wrote:

It would make sense for car manufacturers to take into account such "impactful" loads, especially if they have a hitch as low as mine. But how can I be sure now...

Wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a generic disclaimer that covers them.

Really other than lifted pickups, it's not very common to see drop/riser more than 3-5inches. When you operate outside of the norms, they would rather not try to clarify all the details as that can make them responsible and there are too many variables to tie down every possibility.

[Reisender]

Hi Neu. I am not a fan of packing heavy objects at the rear of the trailer to offset hitch weight. Instead just consider getting them over or slightly behind the axle. Packing heavy items at the very rear of the trailer can introduce a pendulum effect which can cause a sway situation.

Check your manual to see if Audi has a maximum height on how much the ball can be above the mount. I know some manufacturers do including tesla.

Even swapping out the lead acid 12 volt for a lithium battery can help the situation.

Is your Audi a Plug in hybrid or full electric?

Happy camping Neu.

[ppine]

Good advice.
Not the greatest tow vehicle.
Propane refirs need to be pretty level.
Your suspension needs to have the trailer pretty level.

[Boomerweps]

Another reason to go LiFePo4 battery is NO outgassing, so you can mount it anywhere and no liquids so it can be mounted in any orientation.
My emergency trailer brake power is supplied off a bolt on a buss bar exposed behind the front frame crossmember. It’s also where the primary battery cables connect to the trailer 12vdc system. I cut a hole in the floor there and rerouted the existing supply cables into the storage area to remount my battery inside.

[Grit_dog]

Ok have established you’re not killing your fridge even though someone worried aboot that.
You’ve tried 3 hitches and have an electronic scale to measure tongue weight.
And lots of other talking but never replying to how it tows question…
Have you pulled the trailer yet? Seems like you’re procrastinating or ??
It’s not rocket surgery. Your weights are ok.
And moving weight to the rear to reduce tongue weight isn’t always the best thing to do. The more weight further aft of the axle makes the tail wag the dog more. It’s equally as effective as not enough tongue weight at creating trailer sway.

[neu]

Boomerweps wrote:

neu wrote:

BB_TX wrote:
You don't say what you are towing with, or what you are towing. My question: is the trailer tongue weight too much for your tow vehicle making the tow vehicle rear sag too much. You pictures don't show enough to tell.

The car is sagging, but not too much.

I have an Audi Q5, and I understand that it is not the ideal car for towing a trailer, but the tongue weight at the time of the question was within the acceptable limits: 405 pounds out of a maximum of 440 pounds.

I do not plan to exceed the upper limit. In the worst case, I plan to carry the propane tank in the car's trunk or put something heavy behind the rear axle. I have not yet weighed the entire trailer to accurately answer this question.

20# propane tank weighs 17# empty, plus 16# normal propane fill on exchanges, nets you another 33# on your tongue weight for a total of 438#. So you can tow with your propane tank installed, securely mounted. For longer camping, a 30# tank only adds 2 more pounds empty, plus 10 more pounds propane. You’d need to pull a few items from the trailer front storage to do so to be in specs. You might want to consider a LiFePo4 replacement battery. Normal batteries weight about 60-65#, LiFePo4 weighs 25# for a 100AH unit.

Very good point, you are completely right! Thank you!

[neu]

msmith1.wa wrote:
Moving the battery to the rear was mentioned. If you do this it needs to be connected to the electrical system so that the brake a way can function in case the trailer separates from the yow vehicle.

Thank you, I didn't think about that. Someone already pointed out to me that I will actually be within my limits even with a propane tank and a battery. If need be, I'll just put something heavy in the back of the trailer.

[neu]

valhalla360 wrote:

neu wrote:
I don't't quite understand how physics changes for the torque that is applied to my body depending on the height of the regular trailer hitch that I use. The only thing that seems to be affected more from my perspective is the hitch itself at the welding points due to the "lever".

With a standard ball, it's in line with the square tube. As a result the acceleration forces are straight in or out of the tube. They don't generate any torque on the hitch.

The ball may sit 6inches behind the tube, so your 440lb max hitch weight will result in 220ft-lb of torque due to the dead weight.

A couple inches of riser likely won't be a big deal but if you need a foot of rise, in a panic stop or just hitting a potholeat atspeed, there could be a couple thousand pounds of force pushing forward or back on that 1 foot arm. That would result on something on the order of 2000 ft-lb of torque on the hitch...ten times as much as the dead weight applies.

No guarantees but that may be enough to tear the hitch out of the car body...had a friend with a unibody hitch that did just that.

Yes, you're right, now I understand the logic.
Now you've given me a new reason to worry. I think in my case, I'll raise it by 7 inches to level the trailer, but now I won't be able to stop thinking about the potential problem.
It would make sense for car manufacturers to take into account such "impactful" loads, especially if they have a hitch as low as mine. But how can I be sure now...

[Grit_dog]

@neu yes a little bit nose down is no problem especially on a single axle trailer.
Idk if I’d call it preferable and aesthetically, level “looks” better.
Those little trailers are pretty tall when paired up with a short vehicle. Not concerning per se but just how it is.
Idk if you ever mentioned how well it tows. That is the real test. Your loads and weights are reasonable albeit close to rated weights. If it tows straight and steady I would go camping and not be bothered with counting cans of beans.
Sure a big ole truck would manhandle that camper handily but just pretend you’re towing a big load (for that vehicle) and drive accordingly.

[msmith1_wa]

Moving the battery to the rear was mentioned. If you do this it needs to be connected to the electrical system so that the brake a way can function in case the trailer separates from the yow vehicle.

[valhalla360]

neu wrote:
I don't't quite understand how physics changes for the torque that is applied to my body depending on the height of the regular trailer hitch that I use. The only thing that seems to be affected more from my perspective is the hitch itself at the welding points due to the "lever".

With a standard ball, it's in line with the square tube. As a result the acceleration forces are straight in or out of the tube. They don't generate any torque on the hitch.

The ball may sit 6inches behind the tube, so your 440lb max hitch weight will result in 220ft-lb of torque due to the dead weight.

A couple inches of riser likely won't be a big deal but if you need a foot of rise, in a panic stop or just hitting a potholeat atspeed, there could be a couple thousand pounds of force pushing forward or back on that 1 foot arm. That would result on something on the order of 2000 ft-lb of torque on the hitch...ten times as much as the dead weight applies.

No guarantees but that may be enough to tear the hitch out of the car body...had a friend with a unibody hitch that did just that.

[neu]

valhalla360 wrote:

dougrainer wrote:
From Audi
Can you put a hitch on an Audi Q5?
For those who intend to maximize the utility of their Q5s, the Audi Accessories Trailer Hitch is a must-have accessory. Designed specifically for use on 2009-2017 Q5s and rated at 4,400 lbs. towing capacity, this Class 3 receiver is perfect for towing most recreational items.
That said, your hitch is 2 inches square which means it is a class 3 hitch which is what you need. A class 1 which you see on a lot of smaller vehicles has 1.24 inch square insert, which is only rated at 2k lbs towing. Bad news is this. It seems most brand name class 3 hitches for your Audi have this disclaimer. Check with YOUR hitch maker to verify. Doug

Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
Rating: Class III
Maximum gross trailer weight: 5,000 lbs
Maximum tongue weight: 750 lbs
Not rated for use with weight distribution systems

Which makes me question using the drop/riser ball (at least an extreme one like the OP will need). The OP has already maxed out a riser and needs more.

The problem with WDH and unibody attachment is the torque that's applied. The solid steel frame of a truck can handle that torque. A unibody station wagon just has the hitch bolted thru a few layers of sheet metal. The OP will need an extreme riser to get the trailer level. Under emergency braking, it will apply a torque similar and possibly more extreme than what a WDH does.

I don't quite understand how physics changes for the torque that is applied to my body depending on the height of the regular trailer hitch that I use. The only thing that seems to be affected more from my perspective is the hitch itself at the welding points due to the "lever".

[midnightsadie]

keep the chains up so they never touch the road.