L1 OP Code on Norcold Fridge--Help (Norcold Recall Issue)

[USMC46]

Early this A.M., our Norcold fridge, Model R1210M started beeping and we are getting the code L1 OP on the fridge control LED readout on front of the unit. I went outside; removed the cover, and the red LED light on the Temperature Sensor device installed to prevent fires (recall fix) is lit up. On this forum, others indicate they have had this problem and that the problem is that the installed Temperature Sensor safety device failed. But, I do yet have a good understanding of WHY the devices have been shutting fridges down. My question is to those who have had the same problem: Was it just a failure of the Temp Sensor safety device, or is it usually a failure of some more expensive / important part of the fridge that triggered the devise to shut the fridge down ? This morning, I will call the RV dealer here in Corpus Christi that installed the device a few years ago (in response to the Norcold recall) and see if I can get it in quick for a check. But I would like to hear from anyone who has had a similar failure, so I can judge the response of the RV techs who will be looking at it. Thanks for any advice.

[Old-Biscuit]

Typically around/under the burner area. Cracks occur on perk tube where electric element is attached.




The other clue is to listen for a gurgling sound when the Norcold is running.

[dougrainer]

USMC46 wrote:
Rig is level. No ammonia smell. No sign of residue. Where would the residue most likely be ?

Just a wild guess, but if you READ my post, it told where to look for the yellow residue:B Are the cooling fans running and is this refer in a slide room? If you have a leaker or blocked, the odds are within 48 hours the recall temp will trip again. Doug

[USMC46]

Rig is level. No ammonia smell. No sign of residue. Where would the residue most likely be ?

[Old-Biscuit]

HERE is a lengthy/detailed explanation of how absorption fridge works.

In short......
Continued operation will most likely result in high-high temp trip (again).
It sounds like you have a blockage in cooling unit.

Any ammonia smell?
Any yellowish/greenish residue?
Is rig level?

Replacement time!

[USMC46]

OK, time for an update and to seek more advice. I did get the temp control switch to reset. Last night at around 9:00 P.M., I started the fridge up on AC. After about 13 hours or so, the freezer is only registering a little over 50 degrees. I would say it is not cooling correctly. So, SHOULD I try it on propane, or just assume that will not work either ? The pipe running into area where the propane ignites is very hot, so something is heating up the line. The round tank like unit does not seem to be hot or cold. Is the tank supposed to be getting hot ?

[dougrainer]

USMC46 wrote:
In response to above responses: Venilation is clear. I tried placing a magnet around the Temp Sensor, and there was no change. Red light stays on. I see no leaks of any type. The fridge will not work on electric or propane. Thanks.

Make sure the 12 volt is disconnected from the Recall box. I have found it resets a lot easier with NO power to it. Doug

[Old-Biscuit]

The recall box incorporated an additional high-high temp sensor installed higher on perk tube----700*F.
When high-high temp excursion is sensed it trips all 12V DC power so no operation on electric or propane can occur

A 'strong' magnet can be used to reset recall box.........move it back and forth across top face of box until you hear a click/RED light goes out.

BUT question is:
Did it false trip
OR
trip due to high-high temp (cooling unit failure/cracked tubing etc.

[lj2654]

I have had to have my Revision E sensor replaced twice under warranty because of failing. Mine wouldn't reset either.

[USMC46]

In response to above responses: Venilation is clear. I tried placing a magnet around the Temp Sensor, and there was no change. Red light stays on. I see no leaks of any type. The fridge will not work on electric or propane. Thanks.

[dougrainer]

1. IF you have REV E, then the likely cause is a false trip OR a leaking cooling unit. Older REV's could be tripped by 12 volt fluctuations.
2. The RV tech should do a thorough check of the burner area especially around where the recall temp thermistor is mounted for yellow residue. The past few that I have seen, that is where the leak was.
3. Are you positive the ventilation is clear from bottom to top? Doug

[Scottiemom]

LI OP means "line open" I believe. When our 1210 did this, we had to replace the cooling unit. The boiler was oozing yellow fluid and it was shot. No fix for it, ours anyway. In our case, the switch kicked out which was what it was supposed to do to prevent a possible fire. We had a replacement cooling unit put in by National Refrigeration in Shipshewana.

You may call Leon, the young Amish owner, and talk with him. He will give you information you can trust. If he doesn't answer, leave a message and he will return your call. He works alone, so doesn't have anyone to answer the phone.

Our has worked flawlessly since his rebuild was installed. . . better even than before. He is an approved Norcold and Dometic service and Good Sam Extended Warranty worked.

Dale

[mpierce]

I have had the code and light. Reset with a magnet moved over the box by the red light. It is to prevent fires from overheating. Have seen NO sign of overheating. Believe most are a false alarm.