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Large camper with single AC

Hemling
Explorer
Explorer
Got parked in a no-shade side for the 4th. 37' TT with one central AC. Just couldn't keep up in the 90+ heat cooking all day. Should have taken up the offer to install the 2nd unit when we bought it. In my defense, site is only 30AMP so probably couldn't run them both anyway, at least that's what I'm telling my wife.
24 REPLIES 24

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
I have never figured out why some manufactures make the cover for some AC units black and not white.

You have 2 choices. Black or White. The OEM makes that choice and usually has to do with the OEM trying to match to roof colors with the RV colors. Darker units have Black. They count off white and Tan/Beige as a darker color. Doug

miltvill
Explorer II
Explorer II
Not sure what size your AC is but if it's a 13.5 then an upgrade to a 15 may help you out. With two ac units the first AC is usually 15 and the second is a 13.5. The longer the AC runs the more humidity is removed from the air.

When we camp in the summer we get up early and do stuff. Take a nap or go to town when it gets hot. Then do stuff in the evening when it's a little cooler. With any luck you will get some rain to cool things off but then the humidity goes up. I change my shirt several times a day.

I have never figured out why some manufactures make the cover for some AC units black and not white.

South Florida summer camping is different.
2020 GMC Denali\Duramax 3500HD Dually Crew Cab
Sold-Trail Cruiser TC23QB

HannahFelly
Explorer
Explorer
Maybe it's more practical to get a second one that is portable. We have a normal RV AC, rooftop installed, but haven't had this issue yet. At home, we have a portable AC, and it really packs a punch when it comes to cooling too. We always said that if we were to need the extra cooling power, we'd get the one from home on our trips. It's more practical and it will definitely cost you less overall than installing another rooftop unit.
https://www.optimainstitute.com/ac/small-portable.html
https://www.tripsavvy.com/rv-anywhere-without-air-conditioning-2912341

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Easy way to determine your amp draw and possible failure when adapting DOWN to 30 amp or even IF you have a 30 amp only RV. Look at the 2 Flat Spades on the 30 amp cord end or 50 to 30 adapter end. IF THE PRONGS ARE DISCOLORED OR BLACK AND BURNED, you are constantly overloading the service. That 30 amp adapter or end is what is heating up. I rarely find any of the 3 -50 amp spades pitted or discolored, just the 30 amp. This is why it is mandatory that you replace the adapter or replace the 30 amp cord end male plug when they get this type damage. Doug

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
pianotuna wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:

Marginal info...when it's really hot is when voltage drops raising the amps. I've seen plenty of burnt up 30amp cords from people trying to max out the 30amps.


Do you mean the plugs or the actual cord? I've had several plugs die, but never the actual cord.

I've not had a plug fail/burn since I started using the autoformer. I do limit my demand to 24 amps (but still lost plug ends when I did not autoform)


Plug/Outlet is typically the weak connection, though I've seen a couple where the connection to the breaker panel goes.

24 amps is pretty much maxing out a 30amp if we are talking about hot conditions where the air/con is going to be running 100% duty cycle.

Autoformers will help downstream from the autoformer...upstream, 24amps is going to be more like 27-28amps (10% amp increase plus heat losses)

Again, marginal...it can work in the right conditions but easy to exceed those.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
theoldwizard1 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hemling,

1. Add a double mini split Air Conditioner and replace the existing roof top unit.

Sell the current A/C and just go with the mini-split. You probably need to go with 50A (240V) wiring.


Thanks for making it clear what I meant. Get rid of existing air--and have two evaporators.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
valhalla360 wrote:

Marginal info...when it's really hot is when voltage drops raising the amps. I've seen plenty of burnt up 30amp cords from people trying to max out the 30amps.


Do you mean the plugs or the actual cord? I've had several plugs die, but never the actual cord.

I've not had a plug fail/burn since I started using the autoformer. I do limit my demand to 24 amps (but still lost plug ends when I did not autoform)
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

theoldwizard1
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hemling,

1. Add a double mini split Air Conditioner and replace the existing roof top unit.

Sell the current A/C and just go with the mini-split. You probably need to go with 50A (240V) wiring.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
DownTheAvenue wrote:
garyemunson wrote:
The A/Cs are much more efficient now. 2 Will run just fine on 30 amps if you switch the fridge and water heater to gas for the hot part of the day and shut one off if you need to run the microwave. Quite doable if you want to stay comfortable. Put #2 on. You won't regret it!


This is vey good and correct information.


Marginal info...when it's really hot is when voltage drops raising the amps. I've seen plenty of burnt up 30amp cords from people trying to max out the 30amps.

If it's cool and voltage is high, it will probably be fine but you likely won't need the 2nd unit.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

DownTheAvenue
Explorer
Explorer
garyemunson wrote:
The A/Cs are much more efficient now. 2 Will run just fine on 30 amps if you switch the fridge and water heater to gas for the hot part of the day and shut one off if you need to run the microwave. Quite doable if you want to stay comfortable. Put #2 on. You won't regret it!


This is vey good and correct information.

mgirardo
Explorer
Explorer
When we were Destination Trailer shopping a few years ago, we were surprised how many came standard with only one A/C unit. Most of the ones we looked at where 38' or larger. Our Jayco Bungalow came with 2, but the 2nd was an option. Our 32' Class C struggled with one 13,500 btu unit, I couldn't imagine what the Bungalow would be like with only 1 unit.

-Michael
Michael Girardo
2017 Jayco Jayflight Bungalow 40BHQS Destination Trailer
2009 Jayco Greyhawk 31FS Class C Motorhome (previously owned)
2006 Rockwood Roo 233 Hybrid Travel Trailer (previously owned)
1995 Jayco Eagle 12KB pop-up (previously owned)

Johno02
Explorer
Explorer
Simply putting a small fan inside, blowing the length of the rig helps a lot.
Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)

2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife, and two silly poodles.

LanceRKeys
Explorer
Explorer
Retired JSO has a great solution, thatโ€™s what Iโ€™m doing to mine. Many places sell used ac units off of wrecked RVs, you could do the whole job for $300 or less.

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cook outside.
Gain some elevation.
Park in the shade.
Get some better window coverings.