Located some propane leaks

[Jetstreamer]

Decided to make a manometer for fun and wanted to check my propane system pressure and also test for leaks. Did a bunch of research first to do the checks correctly.
I did tap the port on the fridge for the pressure check and did adjust the regulator up a bit.
But then I did a leak down test at the stove burner orifice and it did indicate some leakage. ( Slight but it bugged me).
So then I bought a gas sniffer and discovered a leak at a coupler in the middle of the 1/2” black pipe manifold that runs the length underneath the trailer.
In order to fix it I had to completely remove the 20’ of pipe anyway so I just replaced all the pipe and a coupler and a tee.
Got that all reassembled and with another leak test it still showed a very slight leak down.
Since I had the stovetop disassembled, I ran the gas sniffer around the gas connections and sure enough the sniffer indicated a leak at the stove regulator connection.
Had to completely pull that whole stovetop gas manifold out to get at the regulator.
Put everything back together and the leak down test showed no leaks at all even after a half hour.
Now I’m not sure what the definitive test is for this but from what I could find online people would say that a fifteen minute test suffices.
Anyway, I’m posting this to make you all aware that small propane leaks are very possible in an rv. Is a very small leak a big deal? I guess that’s subjective. My rig is a 13 year old fifth wheel and I’m just trying to stay on top of things...

[DrewE]

MySuncoastRV wrote:
A good method to test for propane leaks is to utilize your manometer at the stove by disconnecting the flute. The normal operating pressure should read between 10-15psi max. Bleed the pressure down to 3psi by opening the adjacent burner valve. Let the manometer sit idle for 3 minutes. If it remains at 3psi you have no leaks. Checking for leaks at full pressure is not advised as expansion of the gas could mask leaks at that pressure while using a monometer.

Disconnect the flute? :h

I believe you mean inches of water, not psi, for the pressures; gas appliances operate at somewhere in the vicinity of 0.4 psi (for the appliances and systems we're talking about).

[Jetstreamer]

j-d wrote:
I notice some detectors specify "Natural Gas", others "LPG" and some specify Both.
Is this labeling or an actual difference in the detectors? We don't have "Gas" at home, so my only interest would be LPG for RV, BBQ, etc.

Yeah I wondered about that also but if you read the details it says it detects any combustible gas

[MySuncoastRV]

A good method to test for propane leaks is to utilize your manometer at the stove by disconnecting the flute. The normal operating pressure should read between 10-15psi max. Bleed the pressure down to 3psi by opening the adjacent burner valve. Let the manometer sit idle for 3 minutes. If it remains at 3psi you have no leaks. Checking for leaks at full pressure is not advised as expansion of the gas could mask leaks at that pressure while using a monometer.

[j-d]

I notice some detectors specify "Natural Gas", others "LPG" and some specify Both.
Is this labeling or an actual difference in the detectors? We don't have "Gas" at home, so my only interest would be LPG for RV, BBQ, etc.

[Jetstreamer]

time2roll wrote:
Did the leak detector eventually pinpoint all the leaks? No soap and water?

As far as I know,yes. I did also use the bubble test but some of the leaks were in a tight spot and I would of had a hard time seeing bubbles. I just thought that gas sniffer was the hot ticket as all you have to do is probe an area and get immediate results.

[time2roll]

Did the leak detector eventually pinpoint all the leaks? No soap and water?

[Jetstreamer]

Chris Bryant wrote:
What OB said. The national standard is 3 minutes with zero change, some states go to 15 minutes, which is what I always did. Pressure drop test every time the system is opened, and annually.

The thinking behind the three minutes is a leak that small will not result in a flammable concentration of lp. Also keep in mind the electric valves on all of the appliances actually have an "allowable" leak rate, very small, but allowed.

Thanks Chris, interesting to know..

[Chris_Bryant]

What OB said. The national standard is 3 minutes with zero change, some states go to 15 minutes, which is what I always did. Pressure drop test every time the system is opened, and annually.

The thinking behind the three minutes is a leak that small will not result in a flammable concentration of lp. Also keep in mind the electric valves on all of the appliances actually have an "allowable" leak rate, very small, but allowed.

[Old-Biscuit]

Leak test
Manometer hooked up...system pressurized and showing 11" WC
Drop LP System pressure down from 11" WC to 8" WC (remove issue with regulator 'lockup')
Timed test...3 minutes
Pressure drops in that 3 minutes....leak(s)
Pressure rises in that three minutes...service valve leaking thru
Pressure remains constant....OK


YES...3 minutes is all that is needed
Dealing with VERY VERY LOW pressures so if there is a leak it will show on the manometer within 3 minutes
11"WC/0.39 psi
8"WC/0.29 psi

[Jetstreamer]

Spridle wrote:
Jetstraemer, are you willing to share which detector you used.

Nothing special just something off Amazon...

[beemerphile1]

Betcha if you check your manual, it recommends a leak down and pressure test annually, my manual does.

I doubt very many people do the annual services recommended.

Here is a good page full of info;
http://www.rverscorner.com/manometer.html

[mobeewan]

Usually 30 minutes with zero leakage is standard for piping system air or hydro testing.

[Spridle]

Jetstraemer, are you willing to share which detector you used.

[larry_cad]

Good job. I'm impressed. That's a lot of work. No doubt you are not alone!