Norcold N641 stops working during heavy rain storms

[Andonso]

I have a Norcold N641 that was installed new in a mortorhome approx. 12 - 13 years ago. It's worked perfectly until about 2 or 3 years ago started to stop working, (one or two times a year), during or after heavy rains storms, which aren't that frequent in our area. After it sits for a while usually from a half to full day it starts to work again.

Several days ago there was another heavy rain storm and the N641 stopped working as before.

I checked that the PCB is ok (no corrosion, plug-ins,etc.) and that it has both AC and DC. Unplugged the AC let it sit for a half day plugged it back in and still wouldn't turn on.

After another 5+ days still wouldn't turn on so I went online and ordered an electric compressor 10 cu foot Magic Chef with dimension to fit into the rv frigs cutout.

After purchasing the Magic Chef I later learned for what ever reason the designer placed the coils somewhere on the sides of the frig (instead of the back) and the frig requires at least 5 inches of space on both sides, a min. of 34 inches in width. Further reading of it's installation manual shows that it's not designed to be installed in an enclosure and only as a free standing frig.

So I'm going to cancel the order or return it for a refund. As there was no mention of the space requirements and the coils being on the sides instead of the rear.

Why they would design any frig with coils on the sides and a min 5 in. space requirement on both side is beyond me. Most frigs have their coils attached to the back side and often slid into compact spaces without any side clearance.

Back to the Norcold. Tonight the frig light came on so I held the on button and the N641 turns on and is working again. it's not the AC or DC but some circuit that controls both the cooling unit and the frig light.

It's still raining but not as severe as a few days ago.

I'm still thinking of replacing the N641 with an electric 10 cu. fit (with coils on the back side) as the cut out has plenty of ventilation on the back of the cut-our for the absorption frig. and stays in one spot (doesn't travel often) mainly stays connected to pud, water and sewer in a RV park.

I'm thinking of restoring the N641 but wondering why severe rain storms would cause it to stop working? Perhaps the PCB? It's the original one that came with the frig.

[Harvey51]

On one trip with a lot of rain our refrigerator roof vent leaked and a lot of water came down the vent into the back of the fridge. It was the base piece of the vent where the caulking failed allowing water to run off the roof into the vent. This Norcold didn’t quit but it sure kept me busy sponging water out.

[Andonso]

While the N641 wouldn't turn on I measured 12 VDC from the DC+ pos and DC- neg wires that connect to the PCB. After some time drying out of the rear vent area the N641 I noticed while opening the door the frig light turned on so I held the ON button and the N641 turned on and has been working good for a couple of days without any problems.

The N641 has only stopped working during severe rain storms with strong wind, never just when there's alot of rain, so during really heavy rain and winds moisture must be getting inside around the pcb.

One thing is even though I placed the pcb cover fairly tightly over the pcb I hadn't secured the pcb cover with screws so perhaps that's important that the cover is secured down tightly with it's scews?

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There is a side wall vent with louver 13" x 21" and a roof vent with cover ~16" x ~6". I haven't ever noticed water coming from the roof vent.

This time when the N641 shut off there was some moisture on top of the PCB cover but didn't notice any moisture on the PCB.

I think the problem is moisture is getting inside around and sometimes on the PCB itself. If moisture is getting in on the PCB coating it with some conformal coating doesn't seem to have effect other than reduces oxidation, mildew and corrosion which will occur in a few areas even though the pcb cover is screwed down.

It was last year I cleaned up any corrosion and green mildew which I noticed from the multi pin plug and a few other spots. After cleaning up real good I coated the entire PCB with a urethane conformal coating. Conformal coating are used to allow circuit boards to be used in wet locations.

[dougrainer]

You mentioned side vent. Do you have 2 Side vents? Upper and Lower? Or do you have a roof vent? Doug

[Old-Biscuit]

Andonso wrote:
DC measured to be just under 12 volts. I think a mouse may have gotten inside at one time as I can see insulation around the frig that been disrupted.

The problem has only has occurred during a server rain storm and high winds. Perhaps moisture is getting inside through the side vent and causing problems. Once it has time to dry then the frig is able to turn on?

Where are you measuring the DC?

At the circuit board, after the DC Fuse on Bd, at the connector to upper display panel etc

DC to bd does not mean Bd/Controls have DC

You mentioned no light on upper panel....that is loss of DC

[Andonso]

DC measured to be just under 12 volts. I think a mouse may have gotten inside at one time as I can see insulation around the frig that been disrupted. No signs of AC arching.

The lines attached to the PCB appear ok.

The problem has only occurred during server rain storms and high winds. Perhaps moisture is getting inside through the side vent and causing problems. Once the area around the pcb has time to dry out the frig is able to turn on.

After the rain storm when the sun came out I removed the vent cover for several hours to remove any moisture. a day or so later the frig was able to turn on.

Anyway from Home Depot I purchased a 10.7 cu ft electric Whirlpool for around $433.xx with tax. The N641 is 6.7 cut ft so I'll have a few more cu. feet of frig. The cutout is ~52 inches high and the frigs is ~60 inches high so I'm going to lower the cutout approx. ~8 inches, that's sandwiched between upper and lower cupboards. Width is ok but the frig will sick out another 3.5 inches so I'll just install some trim around it.

[enblethen]

Check the high voltage lead for any black sports where it could be arcing to ground.

[Old-Biscuit]

Loss of DC.....

DC is used for ALL controls, circuit board functions, upper display lights/functions, interior light etc

[Andonso]

Last year I did removed the PCB, cleaned it up with a tooth brush and alcohol as there was some light green mildew on the plug-in.
Then sprayed the entire pcb with a urethane coating formulated for circuit boards.

When the frig stopped working this time, when I went to install the cover on the PCB there was a half way broken wire to the large round piece (igniter?) so I installed another spade connector. The frig still wouldn't turn on.

Price for a N641 PCB is around $200.00 however Norcold has come out with new power control boards that accept more Norcold models with a cost of around $100.00.

I have another almost new RV frig in storage that I use as a backup however I'm not certain what I'm going to do with two rv frigs.
________

As for the Magic Chef 10 cu ft frig, I know I could install it in an enclosed area and it may work ok at least for a while. Doing so can potentially could void it's warranty.

I was told by Magic Chef that if this frig has problems is likely due to improper cooling (installed in an enclosed space without proper clearance). People have reported it becoming hotter than normal when installed in an enclosed area, causing problems.

If your's works ok the enclosed area must be getting enough ventilation, however it's possible that running hotter than normal in an enclosure will shorten it's life expectancy.

The installation manual is very specific that the frig is a free standing frig and not to be installed in a recessed or enclosed area.

Also that it requires a min. of 5 inch clearance on both sides. If ventilation and temperature isn't a problem they wouldn't have written that in the installation manual.

____

Why a refrigerator manufacture would install the coils on the sides is beyond my thinking, most frigs slide into small places such between a wall and a stove, etc. for many decades frigs have been built with the coils exposed on the back side.

Anyway I'm going to return it and spend a few dollars more for a slightly larger Whirlpool that has coils on the back.

The Whirlpool only installation requirement is that the frig be used in an area that normally doesn't fall below 55 degrees and above 100 something.

So it might not be a good frig for a shed or garage where temperatures regularly drop to and below freezing.

[newman_fulltime]

Funny I have that magic chef in my trailer been working fine five years now

[prichardson]

Sounds like moisture is affecting the PCB. Probably some hairline cracks in the original sealer on the board. Try a light spritz of WD40 on both sides.

[enblethen]

Could be a crack in the porcelain portion of the ignitor.

[HadEnough]

Only similar issue I had with this refrigerator was that the igniter didn't work well in high humidity when running on propane.

I've owned 3 of these and only one had that problem.

Sounds like you're running on electric though

[Mandalay_Parr]

Might try reseating all PCB connections.
Also might use a hair dryer and gently warm up and dry out the PCB.
It might be a temperature sensitive thing rather than moisture.
Call me if you have questions.