cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Parallax Converter

pasusan
Explorer
Explorer
Hi - we have a new(er) RV with a Parallax converter - series 7300.
Can I leave this plugged in (charging the battery) 24/7?

In our trailer we had a WFCO converter and I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics and I leave it plugged in 24/7.

I'm hoping the Parallax is better than the WFCO and doesn't need to be replaced.

What say you?

Susan & Ben [2004 Roadtrek 170]
href="https://sites.google.com/view/pasusan-trips/home" target="_blank">Trip Pics
30 REPLIES 30

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Snowman9000 wrote:
Sound Guy, your advice is probably good in most cases. But in a Class B, there is no extra room for anything. You take along a battery charger, you have to leave something home.


"Sorry Hon, but I guess no more camping for you." :W

The particular CTEK charger I'm using measures a mere 8.5" x 3.5" x 1.875" ... somehow I think I could find a way to make this work. ๐Ÿ˜›
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Snowman9000
Explorer
Explorer
Sound Guy, your advice is probably good in most cases. But in a Class B, there is no extra room for anything. You take along a battery charger, you have to leave something home.

OP you will be glad you are the changing to the PD.
Currently RV-less but not done yet.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
pnichols wrote:
There is one situation in which your Parallax 73XX converter can be an all-right charger/maintainer for a certain kind of RV battery:

Keep the Parallax .... and instead use the money you would have spent to replace your battery with one that is specified to require the same voltage for storing (floating) it as the single fixed voltage Parallax puts out - and will also charge good enough for many camping styles(ies) using only the single fixed voltage as the Parallax puts out.

i.e. We have had only a Parallax 7345 converter in our RV for over 10 1/2 years. But we changed to AGM batteries that are specified to be stored (floated) on 13.5 to 13.8 volts. In addition, since AGM batteries have much lower internal resistance than liquid acid batteries - they will also charge fast enough (for some camping styles) using only the Parallax's output voltage.

It was a no-brainer in our case because we wanted to change to AGM batteries anyway, for other reasons. We just had to look for AGM battery models that could be stored months at a time on around 13.6 volts without being damaged. We move a lot on our RV trips, so the engine alternator brings them up to full charge in just a few hours between camping spots if we have not been on hookups or generator power long enough at the last camping spot for the Parallax to fully charge them.


Phil, based on your postings of this over the years ๐Ÿ™‚ I recently grabbed a 7445 (deck mount version of a 7345) at a garage sale to run my new AGM in the truck camper.

Mex says don't fuss with temperature compensation for the AGM Float, so the fixed 13.7ish will do for when on shore power at home or when actually camping with shore power.

I don't have your alternator charging, so I will still use a portable charger that does 14.6ish if the AGM ever needs recharging from low SOC, and for the once a year zap at 15.5v it should get according to the tech at that AGM place.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Clay_L
Explorer
Explorer
When I replaced my 7345 with a Progressive smart charger I kept the 7345, added a 120 volt cord/ plug to it and used it as a 20 amp power supply for my macerator. Easier than running wires 20 feet or so from the battery big enough to handle the 20 amps plus start up surge.
Clay (WA5NMR), Lee (Wife), Katie & Kelli (cats) Salli (dog).

Fixed domicile after 1 year of snowbirding and eleven years Full Timing in a 2004 Winnebago Sightseer 35N, Workhorse chassis, Honda Accord toad

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Save the 7300 and reinstall before you trade again.


BFL13 wrote:
Good plan, but if the OP ordered a deck mount converter? Then IMO just leave the 7300 in place and put the deck mount as close to the batts as possible in the rig. Run a 120v receptacle to near there to plug in the deck mount converter.


SoundGuy wrote:
X2. There's no need at all to even touch the Parallax ... just leave it where it is and turn it off. sly keep the CTEK and simply turn the WFCO back on again ... a FAR better solution than physically replacing the converter. :B


pasusan wrote:
Yeah... But - this is for our class B - absolutely no extra room anywhere. Not to worry - we plan on keeping this RV for a very long time. ๐Ÿ˜‰


Doesn't change my story ๐Ÿ˜‰ ... apparently you've already purchased the PD so I guess you're stuck with it but in your shoes, because your current Parallax is otherwise working just fine, I would have just left it as it and instead invested in CTEK or NOCO portable charger, any of which will have a much smaller footprint than any converter/charger and which can be used anywhere at any time and not require any modification of the RV itself. JMO. ๐Ÿ˜‰
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

pasusan
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
time2roll wrote:
Save the 7300 and reinstall before you trade again.


BFL13 wrote:
Good plan, but if the OP ordered a deck mount converter? Then IMO just leave the 7300 in place and put the deck mount as close to the batts as possible in the rig. Run a 120v receptacle to near there to plug in the deck mount converter.


X2. There's no need at all to even touch the Parallax ... just leave it where it is and turn it off. Since trailer batteries are most often mounted on the tongue the front pass through storage compartment that many trailers have is the perfect location for your new PD - out of the elements yet close to the batteries ... all you need is 120 vac to feed it and heavy gauge cable to run to the batteries. I'm doing precisely the same thing with my recently acquired CTEK Multi US 7002 charger which I'm using in place of the WFCO 8955 converter which never bulk charges as it should at 14.4 volts. I've just turned the WFCO off and use the CTEK instead ... when/if I sell the trailer I'll obviously keep the CTEK and simply turn the WFCO back on again ... a FAR better solution than physically replacing the converter. :B
Yeah... But - this is for our class B - absolutely no extra room anywhere. Not to worry - we plan on keeping this RV for a very long time. ๐Ÿ˜‰

Susan & Ben [2004 Roadtrek 170]
href="https://sites.google.com/view/pasusan-trips/home" target="_blank">Trip Pics

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Save the 7300 and reinstall before you trade again.


BFL13 wrote:
Good plan, but if the OP ordered a deck mount converter? Then IMO just leave the 7300 in place and put the deck mount as close to the batts as possible in the rig. Run a 120v receptacle to near there to plug in the deck mount converter.


X2. There's no need at all to even touch the Parallax ... just leave it where it is and turn it off. Since trailer batteries are most often mounted on the tongue the front pass through storage compartment that many trailers have is the perfect location for your new PD - out of the elements yet close to the batteries ... all you need is 120 vac to feed it and heavy gauge cable to run to the batteries. I'm doing precisely the same thing with my recently acquired CTEK Multi US 7002 charger which I'm using in place of the WFCO 8955 converter which never bulk charges as it should at 14.4 volts. I've just turned the WFCO off and use the CTEK instead ... when/if I sell the trailer I'll obviously keep the CTEK and simply turn the WFCO back on again ... a FAR better solution than physically replacing the converter. :B
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
There is one situation in which your Parallax 73XX converter can be an all-right charger/maintainer for a certain kind of RV battery:

Keep the Parallax .... and instead use the money you would have spent to replace your battery with one that is specified to require the same voltage for storing (floating) it as the single fixed voltage Parallax puts out - and will also charge good enough for many camping styles(ies) using only the single fixed voltage as the Parallax puts out.

i.e. We have had only a Parallax 7345 converter in our RV for over 10 1/2 years. But we changed to AGM batteries that are specified to be stored (floated) on 13.5 to 13.8 volts. In addition, since AGM batteries have much lower internal resistance than liquid acid batteries - they will also charge fast enough (for some camping styles) using only the Parallax's output voltage.

It was a no-brainer in our case because we wanted to change to AGM batteries anyway, for other reasons. We just had to look for AGM battery models that could be stored months at a time on around 13.6 volts without being damaged. We move a lot on our RV trips, so the engine alternator brings them up to full charge in just a few hours between camping spots if we have not been on hookups or generator power long enough at the last camping spot for the Parallax to fully charge them.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
time2roll wrote:
Save the 7300 and reinstall before you trade again.


Good plan, but if the OP ordered a deck mount converter? Then IMO just leave the 7300 in place and put the deck mount as close to the batts as possible in the rig. Run a 120v receptacle to near there to plug in the deck mount converter.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Save the 7300 and reinstall before you trade again.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
One thing I hadn't thought of - all the things I will be doing (and spending money on) a second time


Sell the things you pull for replacement. The cost differential will be covered by increased battery longevity.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

pasusan
Explorer
Explorer
OK... I ordered it. (sigh)

Since we will be boondocking and wanting to charge the battery faster...

Thanks everyone!


One thing I hadn't thought of - all the things I will be doing (and spending money on) a second time. :R

Susan & Ben [2004 Roadtrek 170]
href="https://sites.google.com/view/pasusan-trips/home" target="_blank">Trip Pics

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
replace it with the prog. it,ll work just fine 24,7

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
7300 is a fixed 13.6 voltage converter. Fine in the Winter and mild days plugged in 24/7. Summer in TX you will need to check the water level more often. Also slow to charge if using a generator.

PD would be better in all conditions.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The 7355 in our 2003 trailer still works just fine. It's 13.8v is good for a Float voltage except in hot weather. If hot out, just add water to the batts more often. No big deal.

If you want automatic temperature compensated Floating, you need a different sort of maintenance charger.

If you are off grid and want a fast recharge to keep generator time to a minimum, the 7355 won't do. You need a charger that will do over 14v ( 14.8v is best). I have a separate charger for that job, and use the 7355 for leaving the trailer plugged in at home.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.