Power outlets (Not GFI) randomly stop working

[ElementZero]

So I've had my camper over a year and have really given it the run around. Starting last week I started having a strange issue where randomly my power outlets will stop working. The GFI outlets still work, the Air Conditioner, Microwave, Lights, Hot Water still work - basically as far as I can tell it's ONLY the 120-volt A/C outlets that stop working. There are no fuses blown when I check the fuse box. If I reset all the breakers MAYBE the outlets will come back but it seems really random as to whether it will work (could just be coincidence honestly)

I need to get a voltage tester (unfortunately my kids broke my recent one) so I'll probably get that this week but my AC voltage detector still works and it beeps when I hold it to the 120-volt outlets and associated cords - like they are still getting power.

Best part is after some random amount of time they will suddenly just start working again and may not break again for days.

Thoughts? I'm not a electrical genius - I just know enough to be dangerous so if you have a really technical answer you might want to dumb it down (or just give your answer and I may ask if I don't understand :R).

Oh one last thing - I have a Keystone so the inverter and all the 120-volt outlets are tied together, not sure if that matters.

I'm wondering if its a loose wire - like the neutral isn't connected or something (plausible?)...but I'm not sure how you would find that?

Thanks in advance!

[23hotrodr]

Unfortunately, there probably isn't a quick diagnosing tool. You could use one of the inexpensive plugin testers with 3 lights on it to go around and test for power. This would work best if you have the wiring diagram so you can see the route from one receptacle to the next.

But most likely, you just need to systematically go around the RV and tighten all electrical connections.

Good luck

[Gene_Ginny]

ElementZero wrote:
...... but my AC voltage detector still works and it beeps when I hold it to the 120-volt outlets and associated cords - like they are still getting power. ....

That shows you that the problem is with a loose neutral wire. Start at the breakers and look for a loose neutral on the neutral bus and work you way down the chain of outlets.

[RV_Sam]

ElementZero wrote:
Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I'm aware of the way that the outlets work but would there be some way to identify where the loose wire is easily?

By the way - why are they like that instead of normal household outlets? Just so everything can be daisy chained together without having to bother with pigtails or something?

Thanks!

The outlets in your house are wired the same but with screws to hold the wires tight, not the pinch pins.
To fix. Try and visualize how you "think" the outlets are wired from one to the next. Plug in a light in the first one Not working. Go back to the one where you "think" it is feed from and plug in anything and push, pull, twist, tap on the plug with your hand. See if the light flickers. You can also try this with the light plug as it may be the IN feed to that outlet. Try a few as the wiring can be confusing to figure out. Last resort will be to remove each. Keep the light plugged into a dead outlet. Remove what you think to be the last working plug while watching the light. Pop the back cover off and in most cases if your on the bad connection outlet you will see burnt brass in the pinchers. I would have No problem doing this with the power on and if I could not see any blacken burnt connections I would grab each wire with needle noses and give each the tug, push, twist test while watching the light. You figure out if you are possibly wanting a little buzz if you handle this incorrectly :). Will be much easier to find live then with power off.
You will see that the wires do Not have any insulation removed. You can use a meter OR a test light to test also. Put one end to ground. Touch the other test end to the very end of the wire in the pinchers. You should have power on both blacks. Now clip one end of your meter / test light to the black and test the ends of the white wires.

[ScottG]

Check the connections at the breakers. They are often not tightened down very well at the factory and after a while they start having issues.

[Bobbo]

It is probably the last outlet that does not lose power on that line of outlets, or the first outlet that does lose power on that line of outlets. I would start with the first one that does lose power.

[wa8yxm]

I had that kind of issue with my Air conditioenrs when this RV was new.
Sometimes the front one worked, Other times the rear,, Both or neither.

Turns out many RVers have a few screws loose.. now I know that Non Rvers think we ALL have a few screws loose but .. Well,, First: Different kind of screw and second, that is what I think of them.

The kind of screw I'm speaking of often takes a #2 Square or Phillips bit (I found Square works best) or Robson (Kind of a cross between square and phillips)

One of the screws on one of the circuit breakers in my power distribution panel (UNPLUG FROM PARK/HOUSE before opening panel) took over two full turns before I even felt resistance and over 3 full turns to tighten.

Also check the bus bars (Both white and green) while you are at it.

Then replace the cover and plug back in.

Other loose screws I ahve found include one of the INLET screws (Where the cord attaches to the RV) on my RV and in another RVers brand new sticker in the window 5th Wheel.. The outlet end of the shore cord.. Fell off in my hand.. ALL SIX SCREWS INSIDE THE OUTLET WERE LOOSE (two cable clamp, and all 4 wires)

I'ld have loved to hear his chat with his dealer.. Between his knowledge and mine we fixed it.

[westend]

Oh one last thing - I have a Keystone so the inverter and all the 120-volt outlets are tied together, not sure if that matters.

This typically means you have a transfer switch somewhere in the 120V system. If the transfer switch only powers the problem receptacles, it would be the first place I would look.
Transfer switch duties may be handled by the inverter. Listing the inverter brand and model will help with discerning if that is the case.

Diagnosing the issue with a hand-held meter is the most accurate process.

[myredracer]

RVs use a type of receptacle called a "self-contained device" or SCD for short. Also used in mobile homes. They can be installed in thin walls and don't require an outlet box.

First I would check the tightness of all wires connected to the breakers and also the neutrals connected to the neutral bus in the panel.

Connecting romex wire to SCD receptacles is supposed to be done with a special tool. Sometimes the factories do a poor job of connecting the wires and can be loose in some cases. I would pull each receptacle out of the walls and make sure all wires are properly connected. If you do find a poor connection, you can use a flat blade screwdriver and/or needle nose pliers.

[ElementZero]

Yeah that's what I was afraid of. I'm aware of the way that the outlets work but would there be some way to identify where the loose wire is easily?

By the way - why are they like that instead of normal household outlets? Just so everything can be daisy chained together without having to bother with pigtails or something?

Thanks!

[Diesel_Camper]

It sounds like a loose connection, usually this type of problem is caused by a loose neutral (white) wire, but not always. The outlets in my RV use a wedge and clamp type of connection for the wires instead of screw terminals which means they could wiggle loose. These type of connections are used with unstripped wire, and the wire is pushed into a sharp wedge that pierces the insulation and makes the electrical contact. I would suspect the problem is on the back of one of your outlets, but it wouldn't hurt to tighten everything up inside your panel if you're comfortable working with electrical panels.