Propane Fridge Question or Help??

[Dagwood_55]

New camper to me. An older 94 Layton 5th wheel.

Anyways the fridge works fine on shore power, but I've not been able to get it to work on propane. I can't get the propane burner lite. (the stove works fine, so I know I've got propane at least to there)

I have 2 switches above the fridge. An On/Off switch and then a Auto/Gas button. A light for power or the On/Off and when in Auto on the other button, a light, but no light for Gas.

I know my battery is completely gone, Do I need some juice in the batter for the propane fridge to work, and do I need to be disconnected from shore for it to work on propane??

Any info, thanks,

[DrewE]

Sounds like a typical lower-end Dometic fridge (such as the 2652) from the description of the exact buttons and lights. One power switch, one auto/gas switch. Auto in this case refers to switching between propane and AC when AC power is available; in the gas mode, it will run on propane regardless.

With a pushbutton switch panel, it definitely needs (12V) electricity to operate, as others have said.

Doemtic fridges (at least my model) also have a little manual gas shut-off valve in the burner tube assembly that obviously must be opened to operate in gas mode. It looks like a knurled screw, and rotates a quarter turn. With it closed but otherwise operating properly, the burner will try to ignite a few times and predictably fail, and the check light will then come on (maybe blink--I forget) to indicate a problem.

If the fridge has had fire recall work done on it, the added sheet metal cover must be removed to get at the gas shutoff valve. If the fridge is part of the recall but missing the work, I'd suggest making an appointment to get it done.

[Old-Biscuit]

YES most rv fridges need 12V DC to operate the controls when using electric or propane.

Most definitely need 12V DC to operate when on propane (controls AND gas valve)

You stated battery is DEAD so the only 12V DC you have is when connected to shore power via your converter (which probably needs a battery to act as a load with it being a 1994 vintage..........plus you really shuld have a good working battery anyway. GET ONE!)

When on shore power
Turn fridge ON (ON/OFF Button)
When in 'Auto' fridge controls will select electric operation.
(Take fridge out of 'auto' and it will probably still run on electric but w/o temp control as long as AC power is available)

So to get it to swap to 'GAS' you will need to leave it in 'Auto' and then go unplug fridge power cord from AC outlet (in outside fridge compartment)
That way you still have DC power via converter (shore power to converter/converter supplying DC) AND fridge controls will see loss of AC power (cord unplugged) and swap to GAS

May take several attempts to get it to fire off .....so if 'Check' Light comes on turn ON/OFF switch OFF then back ON to reset and try again.


ALL of above based on 'generic' operations of late 1990s vintage fridges.

WHAT BRAND/MODEL IS YOUR FRIDGE????

[John_Wayne]

You need 12volt for the control panel you may also have a blocked air fuel mixing tube (the large tube that goes to the burner area) also take an old tooth brush and clean off the top of the burner tube where the little slots are for the flame to come out. You may have to try lighting it a few times to purge the air out of the fuel line to the refrig.

[ronfisherman]

You need 12 volt DC when on 120 volt AC and gas.

[toedtoes]

It shouldn't be the 12v power that's an issue because it wouldn't work on 120v either AFAIK. You should check your propane lines and connections to the fridge - could be they were disconnected or damaged. Also check the thermocoupler.

[donn0128]

RV refers require 12VDC power for control power.