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Pump rapidly cycling only with sink faucets

jesse_m_jm
Explorer
Explorer
2009 Keystone Raptor 3712TS. My pump is cycling on and off when using the bathroom or kitchen sink, but not doing it when using the shower or toilet. I saw someone had the same symptoms and when they removed the flow restrictors from those faucets, the problem was solved. I just don't know where to find the flow restrictors. The kitchen has a spray faucet. I took the "nozzle" off but didn't notice a flow restrictor. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
Jesse
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD
2009 Keystone Raptor 3712TS
Living full time in it with 4 boys. We might be crazy... :B

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13 REPLIES 13

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
I have a newer shure-flo bypass pump that is not supposed to need a bladder tank, and recommended not to use one.
Well, it needed one, and it got one, and it now works like its supposed to.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
jauguston wrote:
For those of you that suggest adding a accumulator to your water system consider this. I replaced our low output water pump with a 7+ GPM/60 PSI Shur-Flo and its instructions stated if the water system has a accumulator it should be disconnected. Recommending adding one would not be advisable in all cases.

Jim

That is because ShurFlo has added a bypass valve that has the pump recirculate water back into the inlet side of the pump when the pressure starts to approach the shutoff pressure, specifically to prevent this pulsating. Personally, I prefer the accumulator tank. It has other benefits, like flushing the toilet all night long without the pump starting directly below DW's head in the bed.
Bobbo and Lin
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jauguston
Explorer
Explorer
Another thing that can be a problem is the type of kitchen faucet you have. Ours has a pull out hand faucet with a long flexible hose on it. DW was always complaining about low flow. I looked it over and found the hose end fittings had only about a 1/8" hole. I figured the only way to fix it was more pressure so I bought the 60+ PSI Shur-Flo pump. No more complaint (-:

Jim
2005 Coachman Sportscoach Elite 402 40'
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Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
Some faucets have flow restrictions in the end where the water supply hoses connect.

And make sure the aerators on faucets are clean.if plugged up they will cause pump cycling.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Any flow restrictor will be incorporated in the aerator. Unscrew from the faucet. It would be unlikely that a kitchen faucet would have a restrictor.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

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jesse_m_jm
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the replies everyone. I understand what the problem is. I just can't find the flow restrictors. In theory, taking out the flow restrictor or drilling out the opening a little should help with the cycling and give me better water pressure, cause it pretty much sucks right now.
2003 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD
2009 Keystone Raptor 3712TS
Living full time in it with 4 boys. We might be crazy... :B

Our Blog - Our Family RV Adventure

jauguston
Explorer
Explorer
For those of you that suggest adding a accumulator to your water system consider this. I replaced our low output water pump with a 7+ GPM/60 PSI Shur-Flo and its instructions stated if the water system has a accumulator it should be disconnected. Recommending adding one would not be advisable in all cases.

Jim
2005 Coachman Sportscoach Elite 402 40'
350hp Cat C-7 w/MP-8
7500w Onan quiet diesel generator
6-Kyocera 130w solar panels SB3024i MPPT controller
Pressure Pro TPMS
1987 Suzuki Samurai tintop Toad w/VW 1.6 turbo diesel power

DougE
Explorer
Explorer
You can reduce the cycling by adding an accumulator tank. This will also solve the hot water expansion issue.
Currently Between RVs

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
You need air space in the water heater. With pump off and low point drain open, release the temperature and pressure valve to establish the required air space.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

wolfe10
Explorer
Explorer
Actually, you WANT air at the top of the water heater. When you heat water (or virtually anything else) it EXPANDS. Water is non-compressible. If no air at the top, the overpressure will cause the pop-off valve to leak.

And, if the on/off bothers you (as it does me), fit an ACCUMULATOR.
Brett Wolfe
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Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240

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janechucknicode
Explorer
Explorer
Jesse, try this cycling is not normal. Go to your water heater, while cold, and pump on. Then open the pop off valve" the lever on the upper part of the heater" Pull the lever to release the pressure and make water run out.
What is happening is the lack of a "full" water heater tank is making the pump want to pressurize the unit all the time.
This is typical when the unit has set for a spell or you have drained the system.
Good luck
Chuck
Oh and don't mess with the pump screws till all else has failed;=(

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Look for an adjustment screw in the end of the pump head.
Build a life you don't need a vacation from.

2016 Silverado 3500HD DRW D/A 4x4
2018 Keystone Cougar 26RBS
2006 Weekend Warrior FK1900

Mandalay_Parr
Explorer
Explorer
What you experience is normal. Don't worry about it.
The pump has high volume and when you don't use high volume it builds up pressure and shuts off.
Your toilet and shower have higher volumes than your faucets.
Everything sounds OK. Mine does the same thing.
Jerry Parr
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