Question about Routing solar cables down fridge vent

[SFVdave]

I see most route their solar cables down the fridge vent and do so on the side opposite the flue. Is there any concern for the amount of heat generated by fridge, especially on a HOT sunny day. I was told the heat will add resistance to the cables and they will deteriorate quickly and can cause failure of the cables, panels or controller.
Any thoughts?

[SFVdave]

rjxj wrote:

SFVdave wrote:
I have my panels and cable. I'm still waiting for the mounts and controller and fuses. Went up the ladder today and removed the vent cap, Re-ran the fishing cord over to the corner. Have any of you drilled 2 holes in the vent base vs cutting the wire mesh. Seems the mesh could end up abrading to cable. I was thinking of sliding rubber insert washers on the cable and set them in the side of the base. Am I over analyzing this?

I put something like this in the side of the vent base.

Do you recall the size? I'm using 10 awg cable.

[azrving]

SFVdave wrote:
I have my panels and cable. I'm still waiting for the mounts and controller and fuses. Went up the ladder today and removed the vent cap, Re-ran the fishing cord over to the corner. Have any of you drilled 2 holes in the vent base vs cutting the wire mesh. Seems the mesh could end up abrading to cable. I was thinking of sliding rubber insert washers on the cable and set them in the side of the base. Am I over analyzing this?

I put something like this in the side of the vent base.

[SFVdave]

I have my panels and cable. I'm still waiting for the mounts and controller and fuses. Went up the ladder today and removed the vent cap, Re-ran the fishing cord over to the corner. Have any of you drilled 2 holes in the vent base vs cutting the wire mesh. Seems the mesh could end up abrading to cable. I was thinking of sliding rubber insert washers on the cable and set them in the side of the base. Am I over analyzing this?

[Almot]

#10 is fine for 24V arrays.

Many places sell MC4 solar extension cable #10 in length up to 100ft. Pretty sturdy insulation. You cut it in half and use MC4 connectors to panel pigtails (those are usually #12 with same MC4), and bare ends to controller. Plug and play, simple.

[grizzzman]

Darryl&Rita wrote:

grizzzman wrote:

SFVdave wrote:
I see most route their solar cables down the fridge vent and do so on the side opposite the flue. Is there any concern for the amount of heat generated by fridge, especially on a HOT sunny day. I was told the heat will add resistance to the cables and they will deteriorate quickly and can cause failure of the cables, panels or controller.
Any thoughts?

I used PVC water pipe to protect the wires from direct contact and heat. I had no issues due to heat.

Good luck!

PVC has a lower temp rating than a good quality (temp-wise) wire. Keep both of them away from the flue. Also, being in a conduit lowers the temp rating of all wires vs. open to air.

Well if you read the OPs first post the flue info was known by him......
:R

[scrubjaysnest]

YC 1 wrote:
Use low voltage landscape wire and you will have plenty of abrasion and heat protection as well as UV. It is nice and heavy and works extremely well. Available at any home improvement store in the landscape lighting area.

Low voltage landscape wire is usually only 18 AWG and way to small. Panels normally come with 12 AWG wire which is the minimum size one should use between panel and combiner. I use 10 AWG marine grade.

[YC_1]

Use low voltage landscape wire and you will have plenty of abrasion and heat protection as well as UV. It is nice and heavy and works extremely well. Available at any home improvement store in the landscape lighting area.

[SFVdave]

Thanks for all the reassurance. I'm more comfortable doing it now.

[Crabbypatty]

I used 10/3 cable i bought from electrical supply and ran it from the combiner box on roof, down fridge vent then underneath tt up to the controller. Works perfectly.

[SCVJeff]

Run them down on the opposite side of the flue, wrap them in slit wrap for abrasion resistance and don't worry about it.. Unless you have the worlds lousiest wire, the negligible heat in there will no effect whatsoever. Don't forget the frig wiring lives its entire life and does just fine

[Almot]

In my case the side opposite to flue came naturally.

The fridge is closer to the rear end. Flue is on the "right" - when looking into the hatch from outside - i.e. closer to the rear. Batteries are in front 🙂

Again, the cable exits out through the sidewall of the cabinet shortly after it enters the roof vent, so the flue is far away.

Routing the cable into the vent coaming, downwards and into the sidewall, and attaching the strain relief on the vent coaming WITHOUT removing the mesh on the vent - was a lot of pain. Had to cut the mesh a few inches, to get my fingers onto the strain relief nut inside the vent.

[Darryl_Rita]

grizzzman wrote:

SFVdave wrote:
I see most route their solar cables down the fridge vent and do so on the side opposite the flue. Is there any concern for the amount of heat generated by fridge, especially on a HOT sunny day. I was told the heat will add resistance to the cables and they will deteriorate quickly and can cause failure of the cables, panels or controller.
Any thoughts?

I used PVC water pipe to protect the wires from direct contact and heat. I had no issues due to heat.

Good luck!

PVC has a lower temp rating than a good quality (temp-wise) wire. Keep both of them away from the flue. Also, being in a conduit lowers the temp rating of all wires vs. open to air.

[MrWizard]

It's a good idea to keep them away from the chimney flue
And no reason not to do so, if you are using the fridge compartment
Like many of us do

[azrving]

I ran mine down the side pretty much between the paneling and insulation. I would be more concerned about sizing properly. If it was that hot in that compartment I think the cheap paneling or plywood would be the real risk. Dont let them lay against any piping and leave a little slack here or there for future work if needed. Use plastic strain reliefs and plastic cable clamps to fasten everything neatly.

[Almot]

You don't have to route the cable all the way to the bottom. I routed the cable out of the fridge cabinet through the interior sidewall near ceiling. This is a shared wall of fridge cabinet and top kitchen cabinet, easy 1/4" plywood. The exit hole from fridge cab was sealed with spray foam. So the cable length inside the fridge cabinet is only 1 foot.

From there it goes along the top cabinet near ceiling, exits the cabinet and continues along the ceiling all the way to the front of the trailer where it enters the bedroom cabinet - again near ceiling. Then down the sloped front wall inside the cabinet, and outside/down to the battery through the night table near bed.

Resistance loss depends on the current. Mine are 24V panels, 8A current at best, so I wasn't worried about this either.