Removal of coroplast belly cover

[Mgr1001]

Hi Y'all
:B

I'm toying with the idea of removing and replacing a large section of the belly cover from my fifth wheel toy hauler.

I want to do this for several reasons:

1- There is a plumbing leak that will be very difficult to locate and repair otherwise.

2- I have a concern about the tank supports for my fresh water holding tank. A while back I peeled away a section of the belly cover for another reason, and discovered that one of the supports had pulled away from the trailer frame. These tank supports are attached to the frame with self tapping screws in such a way that if the screws came loose, the tank could literally fall out of the bottom of the trailer.

3- Because of said plumbing leak, the belly cover is retaining water in a way that reminds me of an infants overfull diaper.

4- I would like access to all the systems covered by the belly cover.


Now, for my questions:

a- Is it okay to be on the road for a while without the belly cover (I,m in relatively warm, but rainy weather in the south)

b- It seems that the type of coroplast material most available to me is 48"x96"x4mm. Is this a proper replacement(Is it heavy enough)?

c- I'm considering adding cross bracing at the overlap points of the coroflex. Basically, angle iron long enough to span the width of the trailer screwed to the frame. I will attach a diagram if I can figure out how. Any comments/suggestions very welcome.

Thanks Mike
:h

[Dave2001]

Don't even want to think about removing mine. I started to once when we first got the unit to inspect that area, but gave up. It is screwed and has sealant under all the edges. It will not come down easily or let air or critters in as there are no gaps. I think the sealant is from a previous owner, but it could be original. I'm pretty sure the coroplast is original as it has the model number on it in yellow marking pen.

[dawzie]

Don't forget to consider when you're driving down the road the air flow under the unit. I wouldn't want to leave a section out or overlap the reinstall in the wrong direction.

[12thgenusa]

I removed mine and added cross "beams" that divided the area into approximate thirds. I cut the coroplast to match the locations of the added structure, added bolts at the splice and taped over the seams with Gorilla Tape. If you are careful all the holes will still line up. It's now easier to remove and install and you only have to remove the section you want to access.

I have had portions down several times to add wiring, add SeeLevel monitor, repair leaking tanks, etc. You will definitely want to do some housekeeping while you are under there.

[Dave2001]

If you have a heated underbelly, then you definitely want to replace it.

[Mgr1001]

Thanks everyone for the input. I'm going to leave the underbelly off for a while while I sort out some issues. Then it will go back on in easily removable sections. Great ideas!!!

Mike
:B

[LarryJM]

YOu'll find once you look you will want to and really have to replace it because of what it protects. I sectionalized mine about 10 years ago and added supports and made the sections easily removed. You can see what I did and how I did in in this album CLICKY

Larry

[Almot]

Vintage465 - yes, pastic-ish cardboard. Comes in black, white and translucent. Realtors signs in front of homes is this.

[Vintage465]

So, Dang! I hate to sound ignorant, but what is the material you're talking about? Sounds like something I've not seen. My rig has this plasic-ish stuff that resembles cardboard but is black. Is that what you're talking about?

[dewey02]

If you don't want to work with one large piece, just cut the existing coroplast into pieces of a size that you can work with. Unless it is severely damaged, nothing wrong with putting it back up.

I did similar work to yours a few years back: Sagging FW tanks, I pulled down the one piece coroplast and added supports to the FW tanks. When putting it back up, I cut it into two pieces to make it easier. Yes, all the holes didn't line up with where they were originally. Just get self-tapping screws and put them where they make sense. Also, for the seam between the two pieces, I put a piece of 2x4 across the I-Beams and screwed to that. Then I covered the seam with Gorilla tape. It has held for a couple of years now and we've put on 6K miles or more on the road.

[TakingThe5th]

If you do replace it, think about some of your storage needs. You might cover one of those seams with a new fabrication of a pvc sewer hose storage compartment. Another seam might be covered with a place to store fishing rods. Still another might store a place to slide in a folding table. You get the idea.

[Almot]

agesilaus wrote:
Just a note, 1/4 in is 6 mm not 4 mm. Not that I know if one is better than the other.

Thinner sheets won't make a difference if you use 4x8. Drive more screws with less spacing if you notice sagging. I would "drive" with the cover off. Depends on where you go.

[agesilaus]

Just a note, 1/4 in is 6 mm not 4 mm. Not that I know if one is better than the other.

[Almot]

Several sheets of 4x8ft @1/4" thickness is fine. It doesn't have to be "heavy enough". It's role is largely overstated, very minimal protection, mostly from small debris. Cover exposed copper tubing and loose wires with split-loom plastic tubing and leave the coroplast off if you like. Or cover it selectively with those 4x8, not the entire belly.

[ScottG]

I think once you remove it you'll find a lot of very loose wires and water lines. Without the colorplast to hold and support them, these things will be blowing, bouncing and moving around when traveling down the road - especially the wiring.You could end up with stuff coming loose.
Trailers that were made without colorplast had everything secured.