Sewer Discharge Setup

[wjell]

I have a Class A 1988 Holiday Rambler Alumalite with the worst sewer discharge setup. I need to find a way to rework this. Here is a pic.




1) The orange connector will not fit through the cut out. That means to disconnect I need to unscrew the sewer hose.

2) The whole thing is too far back to work with comfortably and too low to get a good pitch for many park hookups.


Any ideas?

[enblethen]

By the photo, the OP should be able to add a straight extension and solve the problem.
He will be able to run the sewer hose out through the existing hole.

[wa8yxm]

hershey wrote:
Try the Sewer Solution to put an end to your problem. The system uses a 1" hose instead of a stinky slinky. Not too expensive and I've used the same system and hoses for the last 8 years fulltiming.
(Yes, it takes twice as long to dump but who cares)

It also takes longer to dump (Which you stated) and uses many gallons of fresh water, something we now have an official lack of, to do a job that a few watts of electricity (Macerator pump) can do much easier.

To the O/P.. I have both 90, and other angle adapters here, There is enough room to put a 90 in there.. I see no problem

So I'd do a 90, bring it out toward the front more, then another 90 through the floor, Id likely put a flange fitting there six inch so I could screw in a proper cap. (From the bottom) move the safety cap to the end of the last 90 degree,

That way it'd be easier to hook up, you could take off at a 45 degree

if drop is a problem,, Perhaps you might have room for a Macerator, or install a Sanicon macerator and use 3/4 Inch (I have a fifty foot BLACK rubber garden hose) to pump it out.

Like the sewer solution it takes longer.

But it sure works well and does not mine an up-hill battle. Er, Drain.

[wjell]

Another blast of Arctic air moved in so I wasn't able to take the pics yes. Some GREAT ideas!

The one the makes the most sense in my mind's eye is removing everything until I get to horizontal (or vertical) and running an extension to the edge of the bay, drilling out a new hole in the bottom and using 2 90's and a coupler to come just passed the side of the RV. Easy on/off with hose. No fiddling around "under" anything. When it warms up I'll check and see if that solution is on the same track as reality.

I'm a little hesitant to make holes in the swing down hatch. I'd like to keep the hooky/unhooky stuff on the outside, so it would need to be rounded "slot" rather than a hole.

Thanks,
Bill

[LarryJM]

CloudDriver wrote:
Buy a clear 90 degree elbow and connect it to the tank outlet. Connect the hose to the elbow and run it out through the side opening through which you took the picture.

IMO that is the cleanest and least intrusive option. In general I don't like making irreversible mods to something that I might not have forever. This would also eliminate messing with dealing with something from underneath.

If your set on going thru the floor use the clear extension mentioned in another post and then simply hook up you hose from underneath since you now have to snake something thru the floor anyway.

Larry

[Bill_Satellite]

I would recommend just drilling a larger hole. There are 5" and 7" utility cover hatches which have a screw on cover (I have the 7" in mine but I think it is slightly larger than necessary). Looks like this:
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/access-hatch-5-inch/49567

[Happy_Prospecto]

It appears you may be educated beyond your intelligence.

[robatthelake]

It isn't necessary to cut another hole in the Compartment door. Just don't get hung up on having it closed all the way!

[hershey]

Try the Sewer Solution to put an end to your problem. The system uses a 1" hose instead of a stinky slinky. Not too expensive and I've used the same system and hoses for the last 8 years fulltiming.
(Yes, it takes twice as long to dump but who cares)

[wa8yxm]

90 degree elbow on the end of the fitting (Where the orange connector is attached) and run the hose out the compartment door instead of the compartment floor.

Alt: two 90 degree connectors and a 5 or 10 inch extension (Clear plastic may be better here) drill another portal in (Get the screw in part and ring at any RV store) and move it closer to the area you can easily reach.

Come off the bottom with a 45 or 90 to the hose and out to the hole in the ground.

[Old-Biscuit]

Enlarge the cut-out so hose fitting will fit thru cut-out.


Install a macerator.

[enblethen]

You may consider a 10 inch clear extension.
Valterra 10 inch extension

[wjell]

Let me get out there this afternoon and take some more pics.

Problem 1: I'll need to cut it back to where it is a 90 degree angle to work from. This mess is like a 45 degree trying to angle it into the cut out.

#2 Then I'll have to cut a hole (or slot) into the door that comes down to close off the basement compartment.

Thanks,

Bill

[CloudDriver]

Buy a clear 90 degree elbow and connect it to the tank outlet. Connect the hose to the elbow and run it out through the side opening through which you took the picture.

[time2roll]

wjell wrote:
I have a Class A 1988 Holiday Rambler Alumalite with the worst sewer discharge setup. I need to find a way to rework this. Here is a pic.




1) The orange connector will not fit through the cut out. That means to disconnect I need to unscrew the sewer hose.

2) The whole thing is too far back to work with comfortably and too low to get a good pitch for many park hookups.




Any ideas?