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The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread

pritch272
Explorer
Explorer
8/1/2010 edit: Thread renamed at the suggestion of the Professor.
Renamed from: Champion Inverter and Remote Gens Promo on CPE's web site)


3/22/2011 edit: Thread renamed ...
Renamed from: Official CPE 2000 Watt Inverter Generator Thread


3/23/2011 edit: Thread renamed at the suggestion of the Professor.
Renamed from: (Un)Official CPE 2000 Watt Inverter Generator Thread


Inverter Available August 2010



Remote Available July 2010

2007 Keystone Laredo 29RL, 2000 Ford F250 7.3 PSD, Firestone bags, Pressure Pro, 16" Michelin XPS Ribs, MorRyde Pin Box, Dexter EZ-Flex, PI EMS-HW30C, Dirt Devil CV950 Central Vacuum, 2000W AllPower by Kipor, 4000/3500W Champion C46540
2,927 REPLIES 2,927

DSchmidt_2000
Explorer
Explorer
MrRchitty wrote:
2000 watt Champion inverter generator starts and runs a pancake compressor. The brand is mentioned in the video. This is done in eco mode. Admittingly, the generator was just started and stalled on the first attempt.

Champion starts and runs pancake compressor in eco mode VIDEO


Thanks! I'm looking to get a compressor for the ranch and gas powered ones are very expensive. Didn't think I could get one that a ~2KW inverter generator would start.

Once upon a time I tried to start my 3.5HP belt driven oil lubricated compressor from a conventional 2200W generator to no avail.

MrRchitty
Explorer
Explorer
2000 watt Champion inverter generator starts and runs a pancake compressor. The brand is mentioned in the video. This is done in eco mode. Admittingly, the generator was just started and stalled on the first attempt.

Champion starts and runs pancake compressor in eco mode VIDEO
Randall J. Chittenden
CT
Fire/Medic
Former Auto Parts Sales 12 years

MrRchitty
Explorer
Explorer
DSchmidt_2000 wrote:
MrRchitty wrote:
I run mine all the time, power an air compressor or power tools in the yard.


What air compressor do you have? Surprised the generator can start the compressor motor.


I'll show you tomorrow.
Randall J. Chittenden
CT
Fire/Medic
Former Auto Parts Sales 12 years

MrRchitty
Explorer
Explorer
DSchmidt_2000 wrote:
MrRchitty wrote:
I run mine all the time, power an air compressor or power tools in the yard.


What air compressor do you have? Surprised the generator can start the compressor motor.


I'll show you tomorrow.
Randall J. Chittenden
CT
Fire/Medic
Former Auto Parts Sales 12 years

DSchmidt_2000
Explorer
Explorer
MrRchitty wrote:
I run mine all the time, power an air compressor or power tools in the yard.


What air compressor do you have? Surprised the generator can start the compressor motor.

CajunBuccaneer
Explorer
Explorer
Just wondering if you or anyone else had any update or new information on this. I recently purchased two of these along with the parallel kit and I am wanting hook up a(n) external tank to them.

Not sure if I could split the line or if I would need two setups.

Thanks.

professor95 wrote:
Barfnick wrote:
Has anyone figured out a way to add a larger/extended fuel tank to these? Just curious if this has been done yet or not. I tried to search, but nothing came up.


Nothing commercial. But, I made one that works just fine.

See first photo below for a visual of the following description:

  • I started with a spare tank cap purchased from parts. Remove the clip inside the cap A and it all comes apart.
  • Be sure you remove the "O" ring B from the top outside of the cap so you can glue in a barbed fitting.
  • The inside gasket C needs to be put back on the inside of the cap. A drop of super glue will keep it from falling off.
  • I found a barbed fitting D in my junk box that I cut down on a grinding wheel so that it would fit into the hole in the top of the cap.




The barbed fitting needs to be glued into the cap so it is air tight. I used a fuel proof epoxy. Photo below:




I have a boat with an Evinrude outboard motor. There are three 6 gallon plastic fuel tanks for the boat. Each tank has a fuel line with a primer bulb and a fitting that fits the motor.

I did not want to buy a new tank and hose, so I decided to "borrow" one from the boat. To make the connection I put a male fitting rescued from an old fuel tank (you can also purchase a new one - Wal-Mart has the fittings) A on a 12" piece of fuel line that was connected to the barbed fitting on the generator fuel cap. This allowed me to use the boat tank with no modifications as I could plug the boat tank fitting B to the fitting A and line to the generator. See photos below.



To use the system screw the modified cap loosely onto the generator fuel tank and plug in connectors A and B. While the cap is loose, squeeze the primer bulb to prime the fuel line. The loose cap on the generator will allow air to escape from the fuel line. Photo below.



In order for the system to work with the gravity fuel feed on the generator (no fuel pump like the Honda)
  • The generator fuel tank should be full of gas.
  • The auxiliary tank must have the vent on its cap OPEN.
  • Connect the aux tank to the fitting for the generator cap.
  • Squeeze the fuel line primer bulb with the generator fuel cap loose until fuel flows freely from the fuel line.
  • Once air is purged from the fuel line, completely tighten the fuel cap on the generator tank so it is air tight.
  • The system works better if the aux tank is at the same level or slightly above the generator fuel tank. I used a plastic tool box that I normally carry in the camper.
  • As fuel drains from the generator tank a vacuum is created that allows fuel to siphon at a regulated rate from the aux tank.




NOTE: YOU MUST HAVE AN AIR TIGHT CONNECTION FROM THE GENERATOR CAP TO THE AXILLARY TANK. THE AUX TANK DRAWS FUEL OUT OF THE BOTTOM VIA A TUBE IN THE TANK. SINCE THE GENERATOR IS A GRAVITY SYSTEM PURGE AS MUCH AIR AS POSSIBLE FROM THE FUEL LINE BEFORE SCREWING THE GENERATOR CAP ON TIGHTLY SO YOU WILL HAVE A SIPHON AS FUEL IN THE GENERATOR TANK DROPS.

Of course, you may need to modify some of my steps if you do not currently have a boat fuel tank to use. If you buy a new tank and fuel line, I encourage you to have a primer bulb in the line with a check valve to prevent fuel from flowing back into the aux tank and to purge air from the fuel line. I do not know if it would draw fuel without the primer bulb - that is something you may want to try if you need to save a few bucks. A new tank and line would not need my intermediate connection. You can attach the fuel line directly to the cap. Just remember you will need to be able to turn the cap to get it on or off so the fuel line will need to turn as well at some point in the system.

CajunBuccaneer
Explorer
Explorer
Mod, please delete. I clicked the wrong quote button

sorry

Just wondering if you or anyone else had any update or new information on this. I recently purchased two of these along with the parallel kit and I am wanting hook up a(n) external tank to them.

Not sure if I could split the line or if I would need two setups.

Thanks.


MrRchitty wrote:
Good evening. I spent this morning with an instructor of low voltage electronics and an Oscilloscope and ran the Champion 2000i with the World Friendship Company Charger Converter model 8955 (55amp) found in my 2009 Springdale Travel Trailer.

I also scoped the open synchronous Champion Model 46515 4000w/3500w. (off topic).

He and I were pleased with the wave form produced by the inverter generator.



This is the Champion 2000i inverter with no load.



This is the Champion 2000i inverter with WFCO Charger Converter attached with no load. A 200 ohm resistor was attached and the wave form did not change. Notice the slightly flattened wave.



This is the Champion 20001 inverter with WFCO Charger Converter attached with a 200 ohm resister on the 12 volt side and a 900 watt resistive load (halogen light set). Notice the flattening changes with another load in place.

Here is the link to a Progressive Dynamics Charger Converter scoped and operated by a Honda Inverter eu2000i and then by the Onan Open Synch Generator. Off Topic.

I know we were looking for the Little Champ to be scoped. It appears to be a clean wave and little distortion with my WFCO attached. The instructor liked what he saw.

Because my WFCO was out of the camper, it was scoped on the bench. Next, I will put it back into the camper, attached to the battery leads and do it again.

Professor, any thoughts?

Questions answered early: The generator was outside, we were inside, keeping warm. The supply to the converter was with a 10 guage extension cord approximately 25 feet. The converter/charger comes with 12 guage wires soldered to the board. The scoping was done at the connection to the converter. On my next post, I will post the Open Synch. Never mind. I will post the professor's link, instead. It had the same exact results and it would be off topic. Link to professors pics of open synch Champion with WFCO attached.

This is for comparison purposes only.

MX-RV
Explorer
Explorer
#dewey02. I would say the best place to start is a carb clean. There is lots of info out there refer to the manual to get at it. I did find last spring when I pulled mine out I had to turn off the breaker use full choke turn Eco off and pull it 10-12 times. I always pull slow (this pull doesn't count as a pull) untill I find the compression point near top dead center before giving it a starting pull I find its far more consistent that way. I would suggest running only premium 91 octaine fuel as it stores far better than bronze and it will take surges in power better.
You can take me camping, but apparently you can't make me camp!:S

MrRchitty
Explorer
Explorer
Glenlivet wrote:
MrRchitty wrote:
...

You can give a quick blast of starting fluid with the air cleaner cover removed and see if it will fire up.
Good luck.

Starting fluid is not a good idea! It will wash all the lube off the cylinder walls faster than any solvent. It's only meant for diesel engines that have so little compression they can't make enough heat to fire on a cold day. Even then it's hard on a big diesel. In a little gas engine...

If a gas engine has all the things a gas engine needs in order to run, it'll start. A little prime with gas, sure. Starting fluid, no. Please don't.

For an experiment take an oily piece of metal and hit it with the starting fluid. It'll be squeaky clean in no time at all, right to the metal pores.
I use a can of the stuff to remove oils from machining processes and even fingerprints. Works better than anything else, even spray brake cleaner is no match for it.
Sorry to be all insistent about this topic but that stuff is nasty on a motor.


Totally understand. You are not getting any gas into the carb unless you do a tear down. That is why I mentioned a quick blast. Last resort, I agree. Try everything else, first.
Randall J. Chittenden
CT
Fire/Medic
Former Auto Parts Sales 12 years

dewey02
Explorer II
Explorer II
RE: Not being able to start Champion 2000i after sitting all winter.

Thanks to all for the suggestions. I will try the ones suggested.
What a helpful bunch of people. Thanks again. I'll let you know what happens, but it will probably be next weekend or so before I get back to this. (Supposed to snow all week here in N. Minnesota - yuck).

RangerEZ
Explorer
Explorer
Glenlivet wrote:
Lots on ebay, cheaper than this if you look
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-80-300V-LCD-Voltmeter-Socket-Flat-Plug-110V-220V-Volt-Meter-for-Home-Factory-/390566309884?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aef90effc


Thank you.
GMC 2500 HD Duramax
2016 Cougar X-Lite 28RDB
2015 Wildcat Trail Limited & 2015 Brute Force 300

Glenlivet
Explorer
Explorer
MrRchitty wrote:
...

You can give a quick blast of starting fluid with the air cleaner cover removed and see if it will fire up.
Good luck.

Starting fluid is not a good idea! It will wash all the lube off the cylinder walls faster than any solvent. It's only meant for diesel engines that have so little compression they can't make enough heat to fire on a cold day. Even then it's hard on a big diesel. In a little gas engine...

If a gas engine has all the things a gas engine needs in order to run, it'll start. A little prime with gas, sure. Starting fluid, no. Please don't.

For an experiment take an oily piece of metal and hit it with the starting fluid. It'll be squeaky clean in no time at all, right to the metal pores.
I use a can of the stuff to remove oils from machining processes and even fingerprints. Works better than anything else, even spray brake cleaner is no match for it.
Sorry to be all insistent about this topic but that stuff is nasty on a motor.

sherpaxc
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all. I'm going to order one soon then.
08 Jayco Jay Flight 26BH
2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7

Angus_NB
Explorer
Explorer
sherpaxc wrote:
...
My question is, if I used the trailer as described, would I be good to go plugging in the generator for say 2 hours a day to get it recharged? I have a basic group 24 and a standard converter, original, in m 08 jayflight.

I run mine about 2 hours a day to get the battery charged but that is without using the furnace. You should be ok though.
2008 Toyota Tundra 5.7L 4x4 DC
2013 Fun Finder F-266 KIRB
Reese Dual Cam HP / Prodigy P3
2 Black Labs - Lucy (Her) & Tosha (Him)

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
YES...that is a good idea


sherpaxc wrote:
Ok, so I think I'm about to buy one. Here is my question for you pros. I'm totally new to the genny world. I will be camping at 10k feet, have down comforters, led lights and will only use the furnace once at night to warm it up and once in the morning. I've dry camped in the past and am very aware of conservation. No tv use or microwave use.

My question is, if I used the trailer as described, would I be good to go plugging in the generator for say 2 hours a day to get it recharged? I have a basic group 24 and a standard converter, original, in m 08 jayflight.
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

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