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To those w/10 gal. water heater.

Bill_T
Explorer
Explorer
Buddy here in camp has a brand new trailer with a 10 gal. water heater. The heater can run for a couple of hours before shutting down and then the water is not that warm. I'm use to the 6 gal. heater that takes about 45 minutes to cycle off with hot water. This is all on propane. Is this normal? The burner flame looks normal and does not cycle off and on. It is an Atwood heater.
Bill and Debbie
2007.5 SILVERADO HD DA CREWCAB LTZ 4X4 ARE CAP
2003 Nash 25S TT

2012 Lance 855S

1996 Coleman Taos pop-up
1970 jeepster,v-6
13 REPLIES 13

Edd505
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:


Bypass valves or outside shower will not cause an extremely long Heating cycle. Doug


Really? If the by pass is open or partially open it won't bleed cold into the hot side, and cause long heat time? The original post says waters not that warm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1Vp6Kwp2Yo
2015 F350 FX4 SRW 6.7 Crew, longbed - 2017 Durango Gold 353RKT
2006 F350 SRW 6.0 crew longbed sold
2000 F250 SRW 7.3 extended longbed airbags sold
2001 Western Star 4900EX sold
Jayco Eagle 30.5BHLT sold, Layton 24.5LT sold

Bill_T
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the suggestions.
I will relay this info to Keith and see if they correct his problem. If he replies to me I will post the outcome.
Thanks again to all.
Bill and Debbie
2007.5 SILVERADO HD DA CREWCAB LTZ 4X4 ARE CAP
2003 Nash 25S TT

2012 Lance 855S

1996 Coleman Taos pop-up
1970 jeepster,v-6

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
dougrainer wrote:
Edd505 wrote:
bdpreece wrote:
Couple of thoughts. As BFL13 stated check the bypass valves. Second thought check to make sure the outside shower is actually shut off at the valves rather than at the shower head.


My bet one of these fixes the issue.


Bypass valves or outside shower will not cause an extremely long Heating cycle. Doug


The rig is new, so I thought more likely the thermostat would be ok, but the owner is new to that rig.

I was thinking some cold water was getting in at the same time he was trying to heat it, delaying the heat up and it never getting fully hot.

I thought the by-pass valves might not be set right, but had not thought it through. So now my idea needs a new way for that to happen. Running water or a leak from the hot side? Not so likely with the water pump coming on. He would notice that! Or would it if on city water? He is in a "camp" in the OP.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Edd505 wrote:
bdpreece wrote:
Couple of thoughts. As BFL13 stated check the bypass valves. Second thought check to make sure the outside shower is actually shut off at the valves rather than at the shower head.


My bet one of these fixes the issue.


Bypass valves or outside shower will not cause an extremely long Heating cycle. Doug

Edd505
Explorer
Explorer
bdpreece wrote:
Couple of thoughts. As BFL13 stated check the bypass valves. Second thought check to make sure the outside shower is actually shut off at the valves rather than at the shower head.


My bet one of these fixes the issue.
2015 F350 FX4 SRW 6.7 Crew, longbed - 2017 Durango Gold 353RKT
2006 F350 SRW 6.0 crew longbed sold
2000 F250 SRW 7.3 extended longbed airbags sold
2001 Western Star 4900EX sold
Jayco Eagle 30.5BHLT sold, Layton 24.5LT sold

old_guy
Explorer
Explorer
another thing for him to check is does the flame burn properly. does he have electric hooked up to it also, if so is he using it. I have a 10 gallon and I have real hot water just on electric. if I need lots of hot water I use them both at the same time

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
EXT is the Mixing valve Atwood, BUT, that would NOT cause a LONG time to heat. IF it runs for 2 hours and the water is NOT hot, then either the LP pressure is too low or the burner is not set up for correct flame. But if it shuts OFF after 2 hours and the water is NOT hot, that points to a defective tstat also. The tstat should not open until the water is 130/140 degrees. Doug

alfredmay
Explorer
Explorer
I know that some newer Atwood water heaters and maybe others have a mixing valve. This injects cold water into the hot water stream as it leaves the heater. Doing this allows a 10 gal water heater to super heat the water and provide more than 10 gals of hot water. Check the water heater model number to see if this heater does have a mixing valve. The valve may be defective or clogged.
Alfred May
2005 Excursion V10 4.30 4x4
2002 Cedar Creek 30RBS TT by Forest River
Reese Dual Cam
Tekonsha Prodigy

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
Go outside, open the access panel door and lift the lever on the PT valve. If very hot water comes out, the problem is most likely with one of the shower control valves or the bypass valve. Check them for proper position. If the water is lukewarm you friend has a problem.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

bdpreece
Explorer II
Explorer II
Couple of thoughts. As BFL13 stated check the bypass valves. Second thought check to make sure the outside shower is actually shut off at the valves rather than at the shower head.
Brian, Loretta & Daisy (Golden Retriever)

2008 Holiday Rambler Endeavor PDQ40
2014 Ford Explorer toad

raston
Explorer
Explorer
I'm in Alberta at approx. 3500 feet above sea level. My 2005 era Atwood GC10A-4E 10 gal hot water heater take approx. 50 minutes to go from cold to hot on propane... and its HOT.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Has he set the by-pass, hot, and cold valves right?
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
Not normal. My 10 Gal heats just about as fast as my old 6.