โMay-24-2018 06:12 AM
โMay-25-2018 01:43 PM
Chum lee wrote:
Anytime ANYONE other than me touches the wheels on any of my vehicles I ALWAYS check at least one or two fasteners per wheel for proper torque. You would be amazed by how many "technical experts" get this simple thing wwwaaaaaaayyy wrong. Too loose and it comes off on its own. Too tight and I need the 3/4" drive impact sockets and the industrial strength impact gun (which are at home) to get he lug nuts off. No thanks! Chum lee
โMay-25-2018 12:39 PM
myredracer wrote:j-d wrote:Very interesting info. Thanks for posting that. I wonder what other factors there could be like vehicle weight, car/truck vs. trailer, out of balance wheel or if alloy wheels have steel inserts or not?
From this authoritative reference...
Although we're supposed to re-torque our lug nuts xxx miles after initial mounting & torquing (including vehicles), I wonder how small the percentage is that actually do?
โMay-25-2018 12:28 PM
fj12ryder wrote:brulaz wrote:Not the same wheel, but the same drum. I'd serious be looking at the drum for flatness in wheel mounting area.
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And yes, like I said, the wheels have been rotated several times, so not the same wheel.
โMay-25-2018 12:08 PM
brulaz wrote:Not the same wheel, but the same drum. I'd serious be looking at the drum for flatness in wheel mounting area.
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And yes, like I said, the wheels have been rotated several times, so not the same wheel.
โMay-25-2018 11:30 AM
Ron3rd wrote:
You might also consider just replacing the drum. They're cheap and come with new studs installed
โMay-25-2018 10:57 AM
j-d wrote:Very interesting info. Thanks for posting that. I wonder what other factors there could be like vehicle weight, car/truck vs. trailer, out of balance wheel or if alloy wheels have steel inserts or not?
From this authoritative reference...
โMay-25-2018 08:15 AM
Ron3rd wrote:
You might also consider just replacing the drum. They're cheap and come with new studs installed
โMay-25-2018 08:07 AM
โMay-25-2018 08:05 AM
โMay-25-2018 07:38 AM
fj12ryder wrote:Then you'd be wrong. Granted, there's normally no movement with properly torqued fasteners. But if there's any movement at all, precession will quickly loosen them all the way. It's a documented fact that it was done. And that's why it was done. It's not done now, because taper seats are used, and hub centric mounting is common.
Bicycle pedals rotate around the axle that is tightened onto the pedal shaft. If the pedal tightened up, it could loosen the axle. Very big difference between that and lug nuts. I don't believe precession enters into the equation.
โMay-25-2018 06:55 AM
โMay-25-2018 05:51 AM
fj12ryder wrote:Nope. Precession. If there's any looseness at all, the bolt/nut will very quickly set itself free.j-d wrote:What? Seriously? Joke, right?
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Which side of the trailer is this happening on? Now that pretty much everybody now uses right hand threads on both sides, the Left/Driver side poses a problem since driving forwards tends to loosen right hand threads on the left side of a vehicle.
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โMay-24-2018 06:25 PM
Lynnmor wrote:I don't think there was any real benefit, that's why they don't do it anymore. How could there be any effect on the studs by the wheel turning on the axle?
Way back when I started driving, Chrysler products and some others used left hand threads on the left side. It actually was a good idea as there was some benefit. It was great fun watching the inexperienced twist off the studs.
โMay-24-2018 03:24 PM
fj12ryder wrote:j-d wrote:What? Seriously? Joke, right?
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Which side of the trailer is this happening on? Now that pretty much everybody now uses right hand threads on both sides, the Left/Driver side poses a problem since driving forwards tends to loosen right hand threads on the left side of a vehicle.
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