Way Elite solar charger/controller malfunction

[way2roll]

Upon getting my RV out of storage - 2023 FR sunseeker 2400 mbs - (was only left alone for 2 weeks) the chassis battery was almost completely dead. The solar is supposed to keep both batteries topped off. The way elite controller is showing all zeros for the chassis battery and it seems to be stuck in night mode. Also, some of the controller wires to the battery look burnt near the connections. There seems to be no information on way elite troubleshooting, manuals etc. I think they are out of business. I unplugged the controller panel in hopes to reset it but it didn’t work. Is there a plug and play replacement for this? It's a 100w panel with a dual charger/controller. So many reviews/issues with the way Elite so I definitely want a replacement without breaking the bank and easy to install. Solar is not my forte. Hopefully some of the old gang are still here to chime in. Posting this in the FR forum as well and maybe IRV2.  Thanks.

[MNtundraRet]

It looks like you have everything being taken care of. Thank you for the update.

😊

[way2roll]

Update - the Forest River regional rep just called me. Despite being out of warranty, they are going to cover everything in good will. They advised me to take it to my dealer and they will cover a new controller (either an R LUX, or a Go Power) as well as a new chassis battery. This is my second FR Rv (previously a Cedar Creek FW) and I have to say I have been really pleased with their customer support. I've owned a few other brands and most are usually a PITA to get them to cover anything in warranty let alone out of warranty. Happy customer! Thanks for all the replies on this one. 

[Grit_dog]

That’s great to hear.  IMO they are only fixing half your problems. 
solar controller crapped out. No big deal. Easy replacement. 
battery dead.  Great they are replacing it but first it “should” have lasted longer if it’s actually a bad battery. But entirely possible it’s just a defective battery that won’t charge. 
However you suspect a parasitic draw and that literally takes 2 min to diagnose. 
If that the case, that is the most important thing the dealer needs to fix. And assuming you better get it now while they’re being generous about goodwill warranty. A battery and cheap charge controller are just parts replacing. 
I’d diagnose the presence of a draw before even taking it in, so you can be confident in what they need to fix. 
No, it shouldn’t go dead in 2 weeks. Or 2 months.  Maintainer shouldn’t be mandatory for a couple months in nice weather. 

[way2roll]

Personally, I think the chassis battery is fine. Takes and holds a charge fine. It just went dead sitting 2 weeks in storage. I think Mercedes nature of the beast with all the electronics. It was enough charge to start it but barely. I've had similar experiences with an e350 and c300 I previously owned, and a bmw when they sit for 2 weeks. Heck, my 37 year old jeep does it too.

[Grit_dog]

PS it’s super easy to diagnose whether there is a draw or not. Most simple is unhook the battery and wait and if it starts when it wouldn’t have if hooked up, it’s not the battery. 
more accurate way is just check with an ammeter in line between the neg battery post and the neg cable (ground). Any more than a handful of micro amps and it’s a problem. 

[Grit_dog]

Personally I know you’re intentionally overlooking an issue you don’t want to deal with apparently. 
My suggestion was to get it handled while you may not have to deal with it (financially), although the vehicle warranty is still in tact (you said 2023 model iirc), so I guess you could take it to Mercedes later or just keep masking the problem with a battery maintainer. 
I assume by “chassis” battery you mean the starting battery not the house battery. 
For the record, it’s not “normal” for any vehicle to discharge rapidly when not operated. Including old jeeps. 50 year old CJ here that I haven’t disconnected the battery cables in years and it rarely gets driven. Sits for months at a time and if I remember or are feeling generous with my electrons I might throw a maintainer on it once in mid winter if I’m walking past it and it looks sad…

Now can’t speak much to German engineering. But can say that a 40 year old VW was an electrical pos 30 years ago. And the one BMW I rented a few years ago had more electrical problems in a week than all of the dozens of other vehicles I’ve owned or driven for 30 years. 
Doesn’t mean it “should” be a problem though. I don’t know anyone who pays 6 figures for a vehicle and then accepts it having a fatal flaw like an uncontrollable power draw. 

[way2roll]

 Appreciate the concern, I'll ignore the incorrect assumptions.  I'll have them test it at the RV dealership as well as when I take it into Mercedes next month for it's service. Could be a defective battery - or a small draw even with disconnects. I remember when I first got this MH, very cold start one morning and it ran like my old Kubota used to until it warmed up in sub zero temps. And a few times since, when in storage for a few weeks it ran rough for a few minutes even in warm temps. Considered it more of a diesel problem than a battery problem. Frankly I don't really care for the Sprinter Chassis. It rides nice, but it's a little anemic on power when towing and does some weird electrical stuff periodically - alerts for no reason while driving etc. . 

[StirCrazy]

I would just pull the battery, charge it and then take it and get it load tested.  fast easy and lets you know right away if it is the battery or not.  if the battery is fine then you can then look for a drain.  no it should not go dead in two weeks, we all my vehicles have sat for at least 2 months at some point during the winter and not one has had an issue starting, and we have real winters 😉 

seriously though a pep boys or what ever I think you guys have down ther should do load tests for free, if you were closer I have a load tester and would do it for ya, but I'm not so that doesnt work.  

[way2roll]

Agreed. I think you and Grit have a good point that there is more draw than supposed to even with the disconnect. 

I will have the dealership check it when I take it next week. The challenge with the MBS chassis is that the battery is under the floor pan between the front seats. Requires removing the floor covering, then removing a panel etc. Not impossible, but a huge PITA. I swear German cars make things way more complicated than they need to be. It's been starting fine when I have it here at the house as we prep for a trip and if it does get low, a 15 min drive brings it back and it's fine. It's just the sitting for more than 2 weeks that seems to draw it down. So I think the battery is fine, it's some parasitic draw in storage. I may end up installing my own disconnect switch on the chassis battery so I can ensure nothing draws on it. 

[StirCrazy]

ram did that, you have to pull a panel at the drivers seat..  so not just german.. 

[Grit_dog]

That’s not a battery problem. Really Cold and diesel = potential hard starts and running lumpy until the cylinders heat up enough to have complete combustion. 
If it operated the cold start stuff (grid heater or glow plugs) and also had enough juice to spin a frozen diesel, the battery is just fine. 
Also not a likely cause of running rough when warm. Especially a diesel since they draw very little power to keep the engine running vs a spark ignition engine. 
I hope my “incorrect” assumptions helped you since you made no mention of diagnosing the likelihood of a parasitic power draw on the chassis side until it was mentioned. 

[way2roll]

That wasn't really the assumption I was referring to. But yes, thanks for the tip. I guess even a gritty dog needs a pat on the head now and again.  😄

[Grit_dog]

Just tryin to help….actually. 

[way2roll]

I know you are and I appreciate it. Just ribbin ya.