Will this work and do I need a fuse? Mean Well power supply

[racer4]

Hi all,

I am planning to install a Mean Well RSP-1500-15 100A power supply about 3 feet from the batteries.

Will this work to fast charge the batteries from 50% SOC to 80% SOC?

Should I install a fuse on the POS+ wire between the Mean Well power supply and the batteries?

More information:
The Mean Well will be used to fast charge the batteries when off grid, with AC power from two Honda EU2000i generators.

Mean Well RSP-1500-15 Specs

I plan to use 1 AWG wire to connect the power supply directly to the batteries. The wires will pass through a sheet metal wall (battery compartment). I will drill holes and install grommets.

The batteries are four Trojan T-125, total 480AH capacity.

A spring wound 2 hour timer switch will connect the power supply to a 20A AC circuit. The trailers power cord will plug into the generator.

The trailer also has a 200W solar panel installed by Cedar Creek.

When plug-in AC power is available, an IOTA 55A converter will be used. The Mean Well is only for when off grid.

The biggest power user is a residential refrigerator, I estimate 150AH use per day through a WFCO 1000W inverter.

Am I on the right track? Will this work?
Is a fuse needed between the power supply and the batteries?

Thanks
Chris

[GordonThree]

Something else to think about?

Is the output of the Mean Well reverse feed protected, by a diode, mosfet or solenoid? I mean, if the ac input is off, is the DC output isolated from the batteries, or is the circuitry still being powered up, by the batteries?

[BFL13]

With two 2000s in parallel you could also run the Iota and get maybe 155 amps to do a faster 50-80. One 2000 won't run the 100 amper.

You really ought to have a Trimetric monitor in the mix. That would mean changing your wiring plan so that the shunt is just outside the battery compartment. The neg wires from both the Iota (if not using the frame) and MeanWell would go to the 500a shunt and then a fat wire goes from the shunt to the battery neg post.

The existing battery to frame "ground" would also now go from the frame to the shunt first, and not to the battery, so that might mean another hole in the battery box? No big deal if so.

[RoyB]

Using the Industry Standard DC VOLTAGES for charging the deep cycle batteries is discussed here with this Progressive Dynamics point paper... Using a higher DC Voltage will charge faster but you run into the batteries being boiled out of fluids to quick...

This is what PROGRESSIVE Dynamics states in their operating manual on how long it takes to charge a battery using the DC VOLTAGEs listed below:

"Progressive Dynamics ran this test on the amount of time it took a PD9155 (55-amp) converter/charger set to three different output voltages to recharge a 125 AH (Amp Hour) battery after it was fully discharged to 10.5-volts.

14.4-VOLTS (Boost Mode) – Returned the battery to 90% of full charge in approximately 3-hours. The battery reached full charge in approximately 11 hours.

13.6-VOLTS (Normal Mode) – Required 40-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 78-hours to reach full charge.

13.2-VOLTS (Storage Mode) – Required 60-hours to return the battery to 90% of full charge and 100-hours to reach full charge."

This is based on having 17-20AMPS DC current available for each battery in your battery bank... NOTE That Progressive Dynamics doesn't even list using DC Charge Voltages around the 12.0VC range as this would take alot more than 100 hours to achieve a 90% or 100% charge state.

However you come up with these voltages is on you. I like using the smart mode converter/chargers my self...

The beauty of the different settings on the Meanwell Suppies is you can produce exactly what works best for the Trojan Batteries which a bit higher that the standard converter/chargers produce..

In other words it will take around three hours using 14.4VDC with a capacity of 17-20AMPS DC Current per 12VDC battery in your battery bank to recharge your 50% to 90% charge state banks. Four 12VDC batteries in your battery bank will want to demand around 80AMPS DC Current for about 15 minutes or so which will then start tapering back to around 5-6AMPS DC current starting with 14.4VDC for one hour and then dropping back to 13.6VDC for an additional two hours for a total of around three hours time. This is what we usually see with our battery bank camping off-grid at any rate running our 2KW generator powering up the on-board smart mode PD9260C converter/charger unit starting the re-charge when the battery bank is showing around 12.0VDC charge state.

MEX on here is our Meanwell Supplies expert...

Roy Ken

[racer4]

"must drink more coffee before getting on forum" 🙂

[MrWizard]

racer4 wrote:

MrWizard wrote:
I would be a little concerned about 15v
12v is not high enough for charging
And 15v is a bit high, for anything more than few minutes kick in the pants aka equalize
It's not adjustable it is selectable, meaning you can't get a voltage between the selections

Maybe Mexicowanderer will see this and give his opinion
He's are battery expert,

OP here.

My apologies, I typed the wrong model number. I edited the Mean Well model number from RSP-1500-25 to RSP-1500-15 (typo), but the link to the specs is the same.

My understanding is this unit has a potentiometer to adjust the voltage in the range of 13.5V - 16.5V. That's on the 6th line of the specifications. Did I misunderstand? Were you getting 12V and 15V from the first line of the specs?

I am planning to adjust it to 14.8V. Trojan specs Bulk Charge 14.8V, Absorption 14.1-14.7V.

Thanks
Chris

my mistake, i was looking at the model number line
not the line down in the specs

i thought it was voltage selectable for a whole bunch of different voltages

"must drink more coffee before getting on forum"

[racer4]

wa8yxm wrote:
I did not find specs on the "Power Supply" but I rather like 3-stage converters. I don't like "power Supply" for battery charging.

As to the fuse.... if the unit does not have an internal fuse YES you need a fuse. fuse is a must.. I mean how else is a 35 dollar Transistor supposed to blow in order to protect a 35 cent fuse.. Only in the 100 amp range it's more like 300 dollar transistor and 30 dollar fuse. 🙂

The specs are at the link I included.

Here is the link again: Mean Well RSP-1500-15 specs It opens a PDF file.

The specs say it has "Overload Protection, 105 ~135% rated output power, Protection type : Constant current limiting unit will shut down o/p voltage after 5sec. Re-power on to recover".

I don't know if that is sufficient protection or is a fuse still needed.

[wa8yxm]

I did not find specs on the "Power Supply" but I rather like 3-stage converters. I don't like "power Supply" for battery charging.

As to the fuse.... if the unit does not have an internal fuse YES you need a fuse. fuse is a must.. I mean how else is a 35 dollar Transistor supposed to blow in order to protect a 35 cent fuse.. Only in the 100 amp range it's more like 300 dollar transistor and 30 dollar fuse. 🙂

[racer4]

MrWizard wrote:
I would be a little concerned about 15v
12v is not high enough for charging
And 15v is a bit high, for anything more than few minutes kick in the pants aka equalize
It's not adjustable it is selectable, meaning you can't get a voltage between the selections

Maybe Mexicowanderer will see this and give his opinion
He's are battery expert,

OP here.

My apologies, I typed the wrong model number. I edited the Mean Well model number from RSP-1500-25 to RSP-1500-15 (typo), but the link to the specs is the same.

My understanding is this unit has a potentiometer to adjust the voltage in the range of 13.5V - 16.5V. That's on the 6th line of the specifications. Did I misunderstand? Were you getting 12V and 15V from the first line of the specs?

I am planning to adjust it to 14.8V. Trojan specs Bulk Charge 14.8V, Absorption 14.1-14.7V.

Thanks
Chris

[MrWizard]

I would be a little concerned about 15v
12v is not high enough for charging
And 15v is a bit high, for anything more than few minutes kick in the pants aka equalize
It's not adjustable it is selectable, meaning you can't get a voltage between the selections

Maybe Mexicowanderer will see this and give his opinion
He's are battery expert,

[time2roll]

Typically I would say a 120 amp fuse is needed close to the battery. I might make an exception for the described conditions. I would double protect the wire through the wall and go with no fuse.