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2016 CTD 6.7 oil change questions

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Getting ready to do the first oil change on the new CTD. I've watched all the youtube videos regarding the PITA oil filter removal and spillage avoidance. Just wanted to get some feedback on how others are getting the filter out of the very small window provided in the fender well. Some use the Gino's cap off tool to seal the filter at the top, but that looks like a hassle. Others drop the filter into a zip lock bag or trash bag. What are you folks doing?

Also, Costco has a good deal on on 3 gallons of Chevron Delo 400 SDE oil ($28.99) and would like to know if others are using this oil.

I'll be using the Stratopore filter by the way.

TIA
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
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66 REPLIES 66

FishOnOne
Nomad
Nomad
Ron3rd wrote:
FishOnOne wrote:
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.


Pretty much all the youtube videos I've seen show the "through the side of the wheel well method", and it's looks pretty easy, the only issue is getting the filter OUT without spilling oil everywhere. That's why many drop it down into a zip lock or other plastic bag to minimize spillage. As to the out the top method, just seems to be personal preference to me.


Here's what I would look into.

Link
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs "270k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ron3rd wrote:
FishOnOne wrote:
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.


Pretty much all the youtube videos I've seen show the "through the side of the wheel well method", and it's looks pretty easy, the only issue is getting the filter OUT without spilling oil everywhere. That's why many drop it down into a zip lock or other plastic bag to minimize spillage. As to the out the top method, just seems to be personal preference to me.


Getting it back in with a quart of oil in the filter, raising it up with one hand and screwing it on without it tipping over.
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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Wild Card wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
"Filters do not need pre filling either. Another myth."

I guess Cummins recommending the filter be pre filled is "Another Myth" ?



Do you have literature from Cummins stating this? please post it

You quote it as a recommendation not a mandatory.


I don't have it. I am sure someone can post a link. It is a well known procedure.
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Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
FishOnOne wrote:
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.


Pretty much all the youtube videos I've seen show the "through the side of the wheel well method", and it's looks pretty easy, the only issue is getting the filter OUT without spilling oil everywhere. That's why many drop it down into a zip lock or other plastic bag to minimize spillage. As to the out the top method, just seems to be personal preference to me.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Wild_Card
Explorer
Explorer
Cummins12V98 wrote:
"Filters do not need pre filling either. Another myth."

I guess Cummins recommending the filter be pre filled is "Another Myth" ?



Do you have literature from Cummins stating this? please post it

You quote it as a recommendation not a mandatory.
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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
"Filters do not need pre filling either. Another myth."

I guess Cummins recommending the filter be pre filled is "Another Myth" ?
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
FishOnOne wrote:
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.


Go out and hug your Ford that has nice mirrors and an easy oil filter to change!

Anything else you can exaggerate about?
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
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"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

Wild_Card
Explorer
Explorer
Ron3rd wrote:
Grit dog wrote:
It doesn't go bad in 600 miles. Period.
If I only drove 600 mi in 6 months though, I'd sell the truck and get a bicycle!

Filters do not need pre filling either. Another myth.
Any of you ever had a vehicle or equipment that the oil filter was mounted horizontal on?
How'd ya get that one full, or half full, or any significant amount of oil in it without it running out?


I agree with you the 6 month thing is bogus, but they manual states "under no circumstances shall the interval exceed 6 months". Don't know what that's all about but sounds like a good way to get out of a warranty situation.

I also agree on the need to prefill the filter; not necessary IMO.


Soot and ash in the oil create acid plus there is some condensation forming. The oil doesnt go bad it started getting a low PH
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Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
FishOnOne wrote:
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.


And wheel well stays clean while the engine gets dirty? Trip to DIY car wash and clean under the hood has always been part of my vehicle maintenance.
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cummins2014
Explorer
Explorer
FishOnOne wrote:
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.


Yes , and they do the finger method, don't know where this taking the intake came from, but it sure isn't done that way by the people that do it every day. I fell prey the first two oil changes until I finally got smart :B

So far this a pretty short discussion ,ought to get on a Cummins forum, it will go one for days, and who knows how many pages. Same old ,same old fender well or thru the top. Pick your poison both are pretty awkward .

FishOnOne
Nomad
Nomad
Five pages on how to change the oil.... :R

And to show pictures of removing the intake on a brand new engine is one thing, but an engine that is worked hard and is loaded with dirt, dust, mud, ect.... the last thing I would want is to expose my turbo inlet.

The techs at the dealers go thru the small cut out in the fender to mitigate risk when changing oil.
'12 Ford Super Duty FX4 ELD CC 6.7 PSD 400HP 800ft/lbs "270k Miles"
'16 Sprinter 319MKS "Wide Body"

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Grit dog wrote:
It doesn't go bad in 600 miles. Period.
If I only drove 600 mi in 6 months though, I'd sell the truck and get a bicycle!

Filters do not need pre filling either. Another myth.
Any of you ever had a vehicle or equipment that the oil filter was mounted horizontal on?
How'd ya get that one full, or half full, or any significant amount of oil in it without it running out?


I agree with you the 6 month thing is bogus, but they manual states "under no circumstances shall the interval exceed 6 months". Don't know what that's all about but sounds like a good way to get out of a warranty situation.

I also agree on the need to prefill the filter; not necessary IMO.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
It doesn't go bad in 600 miles. Period.
If I only drove 600 mi in 6 months though, I'd sell the truck and get a bicycle!

Filters do not need pre filling either. Another myth.
Any of you ever had a vehicle or equipment that the oil filter was mounted horizontal on?
How'd ya get that one full, or half full, or any significant amount of oil in it without it running out?
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Arcamper
Explorer
Explorer
otrfun wrote:
Me Again wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
IdaD wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
IdaD wrote:
I use 5w-40 Rotella T6 synthetic because it's required in my area due to winter temps, though I run it year round and plan to do so going forward. It runs about $18/gallon on Amazon subscribe and save. I also use the Stratopore fleeguard filter.

As far as changing the filter, I got the filter end wrench from Geno's that attaches to a ratchet and it works well. Once I get the filter loose I drop it into a freezer bag, seal it up and pull it through the hole. Then slide the new one through the hole, spin it on and good to go. It's not the most convenient location but it adds very little to the time or difficulty of the job.
Do you pre fill as Cummins suggests?


Nope, never have. It's never caused any problems with any vehicle I've been around and I was actually taught early-on not to pre-fill due to the potential of adding contaminants on the back side of the filter. I did do some research on it after I bought this truck and found nothing that convinced me it was a good idea - if anything I found more that recommended not doing it. Truthfully I don't see it as a significant deal either way.
Good point, and on another topic, Dodge instructs NOT TO PREFILL your fuel filters when replacing.
1. What does RAM say?
2. What does Cummins say?
Couple more questions:

1. If the oil filter is not pre-filled on a Cummins 6.7, how long does it take for the oil pressure to normalize?

2. How long can a Cummins 6.7 run with little to no oil pressure without sustaining any damage?


I can only speak to mine but my pressure comes up just as normal after a filter change as it always does. The oil pumps in these engines are big and to fill a quart filter is nothing. I also found out the dealer I bought it from does not prefill the filter either. And when I change mine I drop in a gallon ziplock bag and come out the wheel well with no problem. The only beef I have with Cummins is the 6 month oil change time frame. Mine is due now on time with only 600 miles on the oil. Until the warranty runs out I guess I will just do it but it is such a waste. Truck stays indoors climate controlled so how does the oil go bad in 6 months?
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Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Ron3rd wrote:
Cummins12V98 wrote:
Be sure to remove the intake as shown with steel pipe attached, much easier than separating the rubber hose from metal pipe.





Cummins, is that how you do yours? I've looked at both ways (coming through the side, etc)


Yes it is. I posted my method that MeAgain linked in 2015 after reading all the horror stories.

To me the time is not an issue as it really does not take much time. I change my fuel, air and oil filter at 15K intervals all from the top other than the fuel filter located under the trucks bed.

Trick is to leave the steel tube connected to the rubber hose as shown. These are some of the pics I posted on the TDR.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD