A/C and a generator

[zulu52]

I am out of my area of expertise.
I am thinking about getting a Honda EU 3000.
Before I asked any questions here I knew I would have to have the BTU rating and AMP draw on my A/C unit.

I have a RV Products 9000 Series, Model 9201-776, A/C unit.
None of my paperwork has the info.
I can't find the info on line either.

Any ideas how I find out the AMP draw on this unit?
As I understand it, the AMP draw is what I need to be able to match up to the voltage output of the generator.

Please correct me if I'm wrong.
I have searched the subject here on RV.NET and read what I could find.

I don't know that I want to deal with two inline 2000's.
Once again, this is not my area of expertise.

Thanks,
Zulu

[deltabravo]

zulu52 wrote:
I still am thinking that the EU3000 might be my best fit.

That's what I'd say as well.

I ended up with this monster EU generator

[errante]

I just ordered a new shroud for my ac so I discovered the number is 9201-776. FYI I was told that number is obsolete and the new number is 9203-5261. The specification label is easily viewable once the shroud is removed(three screws). Unfortunately I did not notice the draw. To the point of your question, i only use the my Honda 2000 occasionally while traveling but I do periodically run it at the house and when doing so I usually run the ac for a load. There has been no problem. I have checked the voltage on the outlets and found it to be in the 120 range while the ac is on. As others have said I keep other loads to a minimum. I also have solar and leds so my batteries stay up fairly well which reduces to draw of the converter. If you can handle the weight and size of a 3000 that is a good choice but the 2000 will do the job.

[Kayteg1]

From my experience, the 3000 models is far superior to 2000 model.
Fuel tank that last whole day, quieter, easier to start and powers everything in smaller RV with no hesitation.
The only issue is the size and weight, but putting it on front hitch solves it very nicely, while helping to keep COG in right spot.
Other method to deal with undersized generator for AC is to get big inverter/charger and start AC on inverter, who automatically will switch to generator power.
I had similar setup in my motorhome and it help in those moments when campground voltage dropped below safe for AC.

[zulu52]

egarant wrote:
There is another topic going regarding the Micro-Air Easy Start Soft Start system that you attach to your air conditioner to allow it to run on a Honday 2000 or better yet their new 2200 generators.

I am running a Coleman mach 8 15,000K with a Honda 2200 with the Easy Start installed.

Micro-Air Easy Start Soft Start

I have been following that other thread with interest.
I still am thinking that the EU3000 might be my best fit.
And it can have other uses besides the camper.
Zulu

[egarant]

There is another topic going regarding the Micro-Air Easy Start Soft Start system that you attach to your air conditioner to allow it to run on a Honday 2000 or better yet their new 2200 generators.

I am running a Coleman mach 8 15,000K with a Honda 2200 with the Easy Start installed.

Micro-Air Easy Start Soft Start

[deltabravo]

RoyB wrote:
Just curious if you have problems running your generator anytime you want to.

He hasn't bought one yet.

[thundercloud]

work2much wrote:


We have run across a couple campgrounds recently that don't allow generators at all. The last was in Big Bend National Park. Cottonwood campground doesn't allow them and for that reason it stays full of people looking for a quiet camp. (according to the park ranger)

I think there is a trend forming. The number of rv's we see now sporting some sort of solar panels to keep their batteries charged seems to be climbing at a fast rate. Even in parks where generators are allowed we have noticed a pretty big reduction in there use over the last couple years.

I am glad to see the solar trend. I like quiet camping and not hearing generators at all. Funny thing is I just bought one. What a hipocrit I am. When I was making a decision to go solar or generator I went solar and it's been great for keeping up with our demands. The only reason for my recent generator purchase was to power the air conditioner. My friends that we camp with are finally catching up with the clean power of solar, thank God. Now I don't have to listen to their generators. Won't they be surprised when I fire up one to cool the camper down :B

[work2much]

RoyB wrote:
Just curious if you have problems running your generator anytime you want to. I have the Honda EU2000i to use for charging my battery bank every morning requiring a three hour generator run time.

I sometimes have a problem with the camp grounds where I can run my generator...

Its usually a few hours in the morning and then again a few hours in the late afternoon.

I have never found a public place where I can run my generator after 8PM at might or before 8AM in the mornings...

Private camp grounds is a different story and I guess dispersed camping would also be a different story. Here on the East side of the US we don't have many dispersed camping sites that I know of...


With all of this in mind almost all of my OFF-GRID camping at Public Camp Ground areas is powered using my battery banks which of course will not support Air Conditioning...

Just curious...

Roy Ken

We have run across a couple campgrounds recently that don't allow generators at all. The last was in Big Bend National Park. Cottonwood campground doesn't allow them and for that reason it stays full of people looking for a quiet camp. (according to the park ranger)

I think there is a trend forming. The number of rv's we see now sporting some sort of solar panels to keep their batteries charged seems to be climbing at a fast rate. Even in parks where generators are allowed we have noticed a pretty big reduction in their use over the last couple years.

[naturist]

The 3,000 watt Honda is a good choice and should be able to run your AC. A 2,000 watt generator, however, is marginal. MAYBE it will start the compressor and run the AC -- provided your converter isn't also trying to recharge your batteries, and also provided that the stars align for you. Many people have found the 2,000 watt unit works great at home, but come morning out in the boonies, and the day starts heating up, it's a no-go because of that darn converter and those batteries you ran down with lights in the night.

[RoyB]

Just curious if you have problems running your generator anytime you want to. I have the Honda EU2000i to use for charging my battery bank every morning requiring a three hour generator run time.

I sometimes have a problem with the camp grounds where I can run my generator...

Its usually a few hours in the morning and then again a few hours in the late afternoon.

I have never found a public place where I can run my generator after 8PM at might or before 8AM in the mornings...

Private camp grounds is a different story and I guess dispersed camping would also be a different story. Here on the East side of the US we don't have many dispersed camping sites that I know of...

With all of this in mind almost all of my OFF-GRID camping at Public Camp Ground areas is powered using my battery banks which of course will not support Air Conditioning...

Just curious...

Roy Ken

[zulu52]

Thanks for all the input.
I pull a trailer most of the time so the size of the generator is not an issue.
The EU3000 could also come in pretty handy at home during outages to keep the refrigerator/freezer and a few lights going.
I don't think it would run a home A/C unit.
Zulu

[kerrlakeRoo]

In answer to the question, yes, any 3000 watt class of generator should suffice and while the various 2000 watt gennys will work in varying circumstances with or without the soft start caps, the larger units will be running with a lower load as a percentage of capacity. Since you specifically mentioned the Honda, it will likely be quieter than a Honda 2000 which if it does carry the load will be running at near full capacity.

[work2much]

It's not the running amperage that matters it the starting amperage. Also called locked rotor amps and inrush current. This is the amperage required to get the compressor moving from a dead stop. Even though this takes less than a second the power supply will need to be large enough to overcome the "locked rotor amps" LRA is usually 6-7x or more that of running amperage.

The 3000 watt generator should have no problem starting any rv roof unit.

As mentioned above you don't need a unit that big just for the air if you install a soft start cap. A 2000 watt generator will deliver 15 amps or so, more than the a/c needs. It may not be enough to get the unit started though without an upgrade to the start capacitor. We installed a micro-air in our new camper. They work great.

https://www.microair.net/products/easystart-364-3-ton-single-phase-soft-starter-for-air-conditioners

[GeoBoy]

You can get away with a Honda 2200i, and a MicroAir installed on your AC.