Adding gusset/bracing to shackle hangers...

[PnrFab]

Has anyone added gussets or support to their shackle hangers? My 2017 Keystone Passport has me worried they'll rip off. I drew up a diagram in paint to kinda show what I'm talking about. The red would be the gusset/bracing I'd weld to the frame.

[Lynnmor]

You shouldn't need washers, the instructions should be with your wet bolt kit. I replaced all my cheap spring nuts with high quality lock nuts so that they don't smash into the small shoulder so far.

The LCI page you posted shows pieces added between the hangers like the X-Factor parts I mentioned. The X-Factor wouldn't be as stiff as the welded tubing, but it is easier and can be removed if necessary. I built my own bolt in system.

[PnrFab]

Thanks for all the replies everyone...lots of good tips on here. A few things that came up, regarding the hangers being over sized and pinched to fit the leaf springs, should I use a washer to fill in the space to keep it from being pinched?? And regarding the shackle bolts, they used to long of a shouldered bolt and the nut is all the way tight. I do plan on upgrading the shackles to the wet kit.

I also came across this doing google image search.

[goducks10]

Looks like industry standard to me. I wouldn't worry at all about them just ripping off. I would be more concerned about frame flex. The correct way to add stiffness is to weld a piece of angle iron vertically between the upper and lower flanges and above the spring hanger its self. That keeps the lower part of the I beam from twisting.

If you need piece of mind you could always just weld a piece of 2" x 2" x 1/4" angle across the width of the frame and between the opposing spring hangers. Position it so that one part of the angle is running flat across the top of the hanger and the other part of the angle is going down the hanger. That would give you 2" of vertical support on each hanger. That would take out most, if not all of the flex. Angle iron is dirt cheap. If you can weld then it's almost free. 🙂 And as far as welding on the trailer and hurting the electrics. That's nonsense. Just disconnect the battery. I can't count how many times I've welded on my trailers and never had an issue.

[Lynnmor]

My frame cracked where the cross members attached to the fake I-beams. Those cross members should keep the I-beams upright, but the side to side stresses are concentrated at the attachment points. For an easier solution, see MORryde's product. X-Factor

[rbpru]

Typically, frame problems involve cheap bushings, oblong bolt holes and an occasional broken spring.

In my opinion the biggest issues is lack of shocks.

However, beefing up the frame is like chicken soup, it cannot hurt.

[Frankly]

Unless there were some failure history of similar units, I would have reservations about welding on the frame. I certainly wouldn't until the warrantee is out. I guess I am of the old school where we don't fix things that aren't broke! Having owned RV's for 35 years I know that just keeping the broken things fixed is nearly a full time hobby (and don't get me wrong - I do enjoy keeping them in good shape).

[trail-explorer]

Looks like a box frame

[time2roll]

I thought they were designed to flex a bit to absorb some of the stress so 100% is not transmitted to the main frame.

I would focus on stiffening the frame near the hangers. Is that a box frame or I beam?

[wrgrs50s]

That's an awesome job Lynnmor ! Especially like the idea of bolting on for removal if or when necessary.

[ScottG]

If I were going to add any bracing, it would be down the outside of the brackets. OTOH, I haven't seen any failures and if my Lippert frame survived all these years without them then I think it's a non-issue.

[Huntindog]

reinforcing the hangers is a good idea, but...... Be sure that the frame is reinforced first. Your pics don't really show the frame enough to see any reinforcing on it. Stiffening the hangers, will put more stress on the frame. If it is not strong enough, cracks will appear.

There are several different methods for upgrading both the frame and the hangers. Do some searching and decide which approaches make the most sense for you. Jbarca did this a while back.

[Lynnmor]

I added tubing across each set of hangers and added tubing front to rear as well. I also added shocks. Frame cracks have not reappeared since the upgrades. I made everything bolt in so that the belly can be accessed if needed.

[RamTX]

The usual method is to weld a piece of 2x2 square tubing from one spring hanger to the other directly across, above the bolt holes in the hanger and close to the frame. This would transfer any stress to the other side when backing to balance the forces of twisting to both hangers instead of just the one. To be honest you may not need to do anything unless you can see some evidence of excessive flexing while backing.

This is part of the fix recommended by Dexter which made my frame on my fifth wheel when the I-beam frame cracked near the spring hangers. I have the Dexter info if you would like to see it-just send me your e-mail in a PM.

[Jay_Pat]

It couldn't hurt.
I'd go with the drawing on the left. Add plates on the front and rear of the hangar, as drawn.
Then add another 2 gussets to mount in the middle of the frame. One in front and rear sides of the new plates.
No disassembly of existing hanger. Discard drawing on the right as I'm assuming the trailer frame is an I frame.
Pat
Pat