Annoying converter.

[Kayteg1]

Magnatec 6300 Q but I know this is common problem with RV converters.
THEY HUM
So far we camp without hookups, so that was not a problem, but I plan to go part-timing this season and for night I had to turn the converter off at the breaker, or we could not sleep with the noise.
That is not easy as converter has lock with slot for a screwdriver.
Than it seems to overcharge the batteries. The digital display at the counter shows 14.3V. Don't know if the display is part of converter, or add-on but I notice the display having reading error as well.
The converter seems to be build into cabinet and unless there is a trick, I can't pull it out without cutting something.
I wonder if someone found a way to upgrade the converter part, while leaving the fuse panels with old box?
I guess I could install new converter in the space behind old one and just cut off the wires to old one, but what are the chances new converter will be perfectly quiet?
EDIT
heck, should google it first.
Somebody already did it
but that looks like lot of work. Anybody found easier solution?
Forgot one more annoyment.
When I was recharging batteries with generator, could not figure out why it took such a long time. But checking out the voltage I found that with high charging current the converter goes into automatic overload, meaning generator running for nothing.

[Kayteg1]

fourscoot wrote:
I just spoke to Randy at Best Converters. The listed amp rating is the Maximum charging amps. It is a shared load, so the more amps being pulled by appliances and fixtures the lower the amps going to the battery.

That doesn't sound possible.
I found manual for the unit with diagrams and they have 2 different transformers that don't have other connections.
OK, maybe I don't understand electricity enough, but how 40 amp unit drops voltage like crazy under 15 amp load?
I need to discharge a battery low and do more testing.
Bottom line, I like the converter I have less and less.


For the blog, I measured power consumption from battery.
0.27 amp turning the power on, what is relay and LP detector
0.3 going to 0.1 amp refrigerator starting and running on LPG
15.5 amp refrigerator on 12VDC
4-6.2 amp water pump running and building the pressure.

[Kayteg1]

Max output having it double is not saying anything you can use, does it?
Would not be surprised if from 40 amp the 35 goes to house and 5 to battery charging.
Than the big house voltage drop under 15 amp load is not making me happy at all.

[fourscoot]

I just spoke to Randy at Best Converters. The listed amp rating is the Maximum charging amps. It is a shared load, so the more amps being pulled by appliances and fixtures the lower the amps going to the battery.

[AnEv942]

Correct, but as I understand it, that's also its max output, in amps, less any use by camper that it can charge at.

[Kayteg1]

That rating is for house converter. All the descriptions I found give lot of mumbo-jumbo about advanced charging, but no number.
I measured bot circuits.
Battery charging circuits shows 14.0V
when house circuit 13.1V
Turned 15.5 amp refrigerator on and house voltage drop to 12.0V.

[fourscoot]

The WF8945REP is a 45 Amp unit. The WF8955REP is a 55 amp unit. The 55 amp unit is slightly more expensive than the 45 amp. I hope this information was what you were looking for.
Also Amazon has the 45 amp unit for a few bucks less and the 55 amp unit around 11 dollars less than the best converters website. That is were I ordered from, since I have prime I received it in a couple of days.

[Kayteg1]

What is fishy -nobody lists what is charging amps in those units.
For $200 I would expect good description.

[fourscoot]

This is the kit i used from Best Converter.
Clicky
It was more time consuming than difficult. As a side note I really like the fact that the dc outputs from the panel become filtered. The lower box containing the original charger came out as a unit and the new unit fit into its place, utilizing the same mounting holes.

[Kayteg1]

I do have inverter/charger in my conversion, but this is TC, so I am trying to keep it simpler.
Above units cost pretty money, when I bought 1700W inverter for camper for about $100. I do have huge amount of storage under my countertop, where with w/h and battery box is lot of space left on top and on the sides as well.
Relocating the converter would mean redoing whole wiring. That would be too much.
What is latest in setup technology? My converter has separate system for camper and separate for battery charging. Manufacturer doesn't like to say what amp the battery charging does, but I had older trailer, where advanced converter was parallel to the battery, meaning when needed whole power went to charging, while the battery could boost the converter in those rare situations.
I like that idea better, but how batteries like it?

[HMS_Beagle]

I replaced the charger in my converter/fuse panel by removing the converter and rewiring the fuse panel inputs from a different one, mounted in the same space. I don't know how similar mine is to yours. I used a charger/inverter with transfer switch (Magnum 612). The charger does not hum. Sadly, the inverter hums badly and cannot be left on at night.

They really should publish their noise figures, if they are going to be that loud.

On mine, I could pull the charger out from under the fuse panel from the front access - but I also had access to the top.

[Boatycall]

Steve_in_29 wrote:
Xantrex Prosine2K invertor I went with had a much better charger built into it.

I had that same one, great inverter/converter/charger.

Question for the OP--
Not having seen your TC, is relocating the converter to some storage cabinet where you would hear it less be an option?

What about replacing it with a combination inverter/converter/charger like the Prosine 2.0 or the one I have, the Magnum 3kw.

Magnum 3kw inverter-charger

[Kayteg1]

ISBRAM wrote:
I did the PD9260 conversation to my Magnetek a few years ago. I also followed the same instructions on your link. I think PD also has a plug and play converter that is easer to install but it costs a little more.
It only took me a few hours; I already had all of the required tools and skill to use them. It works great and I never have heard the fan come on.
My old Magnetek converter section always boiled the battery and later on it started to have a parasitic draw on the battery when unplugged.

That what scares me
$200 cost
30lb of weight
"few" hours of work.
way more that it is worth to me at the time.
In my garage I do have computerized 25 amp charger, that also has maintaining mode.
At this point I am tempted to make semi-permanent charger install , parallel to old system and use the charger every day, switching the old converter on when I have heavy 12V use (not likely is going to happen).
The only issue with this idea is that I would have to manually set the charger each time I plug shore power. That ain't that bad.

[AnEv942]

I was curious as to why the link provided showed modifications to the case? I replaced ours, a 6300 Q series with a PD4645 and its taking out the old charger section and sliding in the new one. Transferring the wires. Its a direct replacement-no modifications to sheet metal needed.
The install you linked is older, on the Best converter page is a link to a more recent discussion by the same author.

Point is swapping out lower section fairly simple. Included 12v LED indicator fuse panel a plus, charge mode indicator so you can "see" (or change) what its doing. AND its quite...better charging.

http://www.bestconverter.com/4600-series-Upgrade-Kits_c_133.html .

There are several threads on the forum, what steered me to the Progressive upgrade. Ours also hummed- ran hot, but it was the fan that roared that pushed me to swap (and better charging).

[Steve_in_29]

While I don't have one I have read nothing but really good reviews on the Progressive Dynamics upgrade for older convertors.

In my camper I had the convertor deleted during construction as the Xantrex Prosine2K invertor I went with had a much better charger built into it.