cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Brake Pads

maxwell11
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2005 Dodge Diesel 2500 Quad cab short bed, 80K miles

I purchased new brake pads:
Wagner Thermo Quiet
Made by Federal Mogul

Have any of you guys used these brake pads,
If so, how did they perform?????

Cost about $95 out the door with tax.
36 REPLIES 36

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Perrysburg Dodgeboy wrote:
Well will say that if the fluid was silicon the NAPA dealer would be footing the bill! I bought NAPA's ultra premium parts, rotors, new calipers with slides, pads, new soft lines and the fluid.

So if they had sold me brake fluid that was not compatible with my system they would be paying for the repairs.

Don

BTW for the people that think paying $50 for rotors on a HD truck will get them quality rotors, think again.


You do get what you pay for! Quality US or Canadian rotors will last much longer then the el cheapo's

The Chicom rotors do not last.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Works for me. ๐Ÿ™‚ Any guarantee that those $150 hubs/rotors are 3 times better? ๐Ÿ™‚

I've seen the identical parts sell for double the price if you buy at an auto parts store. Same company, same part number, double the price.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
Well will say that if the fluid was silicon the NAPA dealer would be footing the bill! I bought NAPA's ultra premium parts, rotors, new calipers with slides, pads, new soft lines and the fluid.

So if they had sold me brake fluid that was not compatible with my system they would be paying for the repairs.

Don

BTW for the people that think paying $50 for rotors on a HD truck will get them quality rotors, think again.
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Forgot to mention that through out the life of most all pads...they will often
need to be rebedded in or really to scrub off high spots from stopping while
the pads are still outgassing
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Don...didn't want to say it before, but now that you've indicated that
you have glycol 5.1...it is a very good thing.

ABS modules cost in the thousands of bucks and they have the same seal
problems with silicone as normal OEM braking systems

As for the other poster who said new pads had the warped rotor feel...it
most likely is NOT warped rotors but a need to cure and bed in the new
friction materials (pads)

All friction materials need curing and when on vehicle brakes..the term
is bedding in.

The softer materials need more curing than harder materials

What is most likely in your case is that you stopped moving when the
friction material was still curing. Hot and outgassing to create a
high spot on the rotor surface.

Only takes a few ten thousandths of an inch to be noticeable on the
brake pedal

Do a search here and/or on the internet using: "brake bedding in" and
you will find many methods. Most are generic, but there are differences
between mud hen freebies that come with rebuilt calipers all the way
up to pure track/race pads.

This is one of the better explanations and is also my opinion on the
matter. I also bed in my brakes differently, but won't list it here
and best to use these folks. Hot link below

Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures
StopTech's Recommended Procedure for Beddin...




This is also a good one:
Zeckhausen Racing
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
Before we condemn your rotors I think what I would do is check the lug nuts. If your guy did not us a tq wrench that is the problem. If your rotors were not warped before the new pads where installed then I bet he used an impact gun to tq the lug nuts down. Have the lugs loosened and tightened back down to the correct specs (funded in your owners manual) and see if that doesn't fix the problem.

Every time I would take my car in for an oil change and free tire rotation the brake pedal would pulsate. I would have to retorque the lug nuts and low and behold the pulsation would be gone! BTW they now use a tq wrench on my lug nuts! :B

Don
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
Pretty much my thought too. After all a new hub/rotor for my truck is about $50.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

DirtyOil
Explorer
Explorer
Ram truck rotors are pretty much a "throw away" part... not a lot or any tolerance for turning those rotors. In my experience anyways...
2013 RAM 3500 CTD Crew 4x4 Laramie
2014 Sprinter Copper Canyon 269FWRLS

GUTS GLORY RAM

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
2012Coleman wrote:
I just upgraded my front rotors to drilled and slotted. Threw in a pair of ceramic pads. Cost was $185.00


Thinking of similar rotors to help heat dissipation. But not the ceramic pads. My understanding is that they have less stopping power than other types. Currently looking at EBC Yellowstuff pads and their drilled/slotted rotors.
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

2012Coleman
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just upgraded my front rotors to drilled and slotted. Threw in a pair of ceramic pads. Cost was $185.00
Experience without good judgment is worthless; good judgment without experience is still good judgment!

2018 RAM 3500 Big Horn CTD
2018 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
A "proper" brake job includes turning the rotors.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
If they didn't turn the rotors, a mostly unnecessary practice IMO, then you may have some vibration until the new pads wear to the surface of the old rotors.

I've never noticed it on any of my vehicles though, so you may want to talk to the installers and make sure everything is up to snuff. Brakes are something you don't want to take chances with. Especially if you're towing something.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

Perrysburg_Dodg
Explorer
Explorer
maxwell11 wrote:
new problem: 2005 dodge 2500

I had the new brake pads installed:
Wagner Thermo Quiet
Made by Federal Mogul

the mechanic did not dress the rotors because the old brakes stopped smooth, no problem other than the pads were just worn down after 80K miles.

now after a few days I have noticed I am having some vibration as I stop, like you would have, if the rotors were slightly warped.

is that possible, normally you have warped rotors before you change the pads and have them dressed before you install new pads?
I do not want to have my rotors dressed, if they do not need it.


any advice: why would this happen, truck does stop much better with the new pads, just this new vibration issue.

am planning a 600 mile trip pulling my trailer this week, do you think after pulling the trailer and stopping
possible the brake pads will work in, or should I have the rotors turned??????????


Have the rotors turned and make sure they can remove the tool marks on both sides. All rotors MUST have an non directional finish otherwise the brake pads will be damaged.

Don
2015 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab SWB 4X4 Ecodiesel GDE Tune.

maxwell11
Explorer
Explorer
new problem: 2005 dodge 2500

I had the new brake pads installed:
Wagner Thermo Quiet
Made by Federal Mogul

the mechanic did not dress the rotors because the old brakes stopped smooth, no problem other than the pads were just worn down after 80K miles.

now after a few days I have noticed I am having some vibration as I stop, like you would have, if the rotors were slightly warped.

is that possible, normally you have warped rotors before you change the pads and have them dressed before you install new pads?
I do not want to have my rotors dressed, if they do not need it.


any advice: why would this happen, truck does stop much better with the new pads, just this new vibration issue.

am planning a 600 mile trip pulling my trailer this week, do you think after pulling the trailer and stopping
possible the brake pads will work in, or should I have the rotors turned??????????