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Buyer's remorse??

Herimpression
Explorer
Explorer
Hi. I'm totally new to this site and RVING. Hubby is in the Navy and got orders to Virginia...we decided to take advantage of living on the other side of the country by traveling to all the neat places we've heard about. So buying a TT seemed like a no-brainer. We looked at everything from Class C to fifth wheel to ultralights. We decided to get a light TT so we didn't have to upgrade our vehicle. We have a 1500 suburban with a tow package that can pull 8100 pounds.

So after a year of looking we were in between the Keystone Bullet Premier 31BHPR or 34BHPR The bunk house and outdoor kitchen were requirements and both have them. So after a lot of thinking we picked the 34BHPR because it has more interior storage and we liked the kitchen layout with the island. (This was a really hard choice because the other model has an exterior door to the bathroom and it's 500 pounds lighter because it only has 2 slides we thought that was great too.) So, we put our down payment down and we are waiting for them to do the do the walk through with us next week when we take it home.

Now I'm waking up at night worried we picked the wrong one because of the island. I hadn't seen the inside with the slides pulled in until the day we bought it. When the slides are in you can't get to anything because the slides pull right up to the island and you would have to climb over it to get to the bunk house. And getting to anything in the kitchen or storage under the table isn't possible with slides in. So you can only get to the bathroom and master bedroom with slides in.

Is this going to be a big deal??? We are in Virginia and are planning on going all the way up to Maine and down to the Florida Keys. I'm scared I'll hate that I can't get to our stuff on long hauls. We usually pack a road trip cooler in the car when we travel so hubby doesn't think we'll need anything from the trailer when we're on the road. But I don't know since we're new to this. Please give me advice. I can still change my mind and buy the 31BHPR that doesn't have an island...the dealer will be mad...but we haven't signed on the dotted line yet. Thanks in advance for your help!
163 REPLIES 163

DownTheAvenue
Explorer
Explorer
Herimpression wrote:
We're feeling like a couple dumbasses right now for just listening to the dealer...but we're grateful for all this much needed information.


Quite the opposite, you are being very wise!!!!!

Herimpression
Explorer
Explorer
I'm reading all these comments and really appreciate them! I called dealer and told him to put everyone hold until I get more information - it's not too late for us to back out of this sale. I stopped commenting on the TV because my husband has it at work and I can't look at the sticker at the moment...but I will the moment he gets home.

Off the top of my head it's a 2009 1500 suburban V8 with a cooling package/tow package. I know it has airbags that inflate when you hook the trailer to it. I'm sorry I can't speak more intelligently about it at the moment.

As far as I'm concerned this deal is dead. I was T-boned by a meth addict in 2010 and got hurt really badly. I am NOT interested in another car crash...especially with our son in the car...and especially if we are the ones causing the unsafe road.

So, I'm really glad I joined your group! When I called the dealer to say hold the deal because I just learned this is unsafe he said he has sold this trailer to people with my exact vehicle before. He insisted it will be fine and said that he's never heard of the length of the TT being an issue and kinda laughed it off. Trust is lost there, clearly!

I'm just waiting for my husband to get off work so we can get more details about the car. We're feeling like a couple dumbasses right now for just listening to the dealer...but we're grateful for all this much needed information.

Dadoffourgirls
Explorer
Explorer
Please provide more details on you Suburban. I believe that we are all trying to help you. It is likely that with the three of you in Burb and trailer that you will be over your payload and combined gross vehicle rating.

Now, I did pull my trailer with the 3/4 ton (2500) version of the Suburban. It did fine, but had the payload and power. I have towed mine with a 1500 vehicle a couple of times, less than 50 miles. It is capable. I even made it up a hill. It was only me in the half-ton. I would not go further or take the family in a half-ton.

If there is no way to undo the trailer purchase, you may need to look for a different tow vehicle. Prices and conditions vary for tow vehicles, and what you are willing to use to travel. A Express 3500 can be had for a decent price, has roof rail airbags for rear passengers, has over 3000 lbs payload, and could tow the trailer. I purchased a 2014 last year with 2 years warranty and maintenance for under $25k. It had under 30k miles. It may not be the most exciting vehicle, but it serves a great purpose and has room and seating capacity. My 15 year old is getting very good at driving it, and will probably be the vehicle she drives.
Dad of Four Girls
Wife
Employee of GM, all opinions are my own!
2017 Express Ext 3500 (Code named "BIGGER ED" by daughters)
2011 Jayco Jayflight G2 32BHDS

McDaddy
Explorer
Explorer
First you need to find out what your suburban can really pull/carry. you need to look up the specs for the burb and also the specs for the rv. The first thing you need to determine is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) for the burb. The GVWR is the total amount that the burb can weigh safely. It will include the vehicle, its passengers, fuel and luggage. You must also remember that you will be adding 800 lbs of hitch weight to the burb when you hook the trailer to it. It is at this point that you will most likely find that your burb is not a sufficient tow vehicle. But if you provide the year, make and model, I would be happy to take a look. Then, you need to know that the weight of the rv as stated in the online specs is not the actual weight. It does not include any optional items that you add to the rv. Nor does it include the weight of any water that you have in the tanks, nor does it include the propane that is in the two propane tanks. You also then have to figure out how much weight you add to it. Most people figure that they add about 800 to 1000 pounds of gear to their rv. This includes clothing, bedding, food, dishes, blankets, camping gear, chairs, etc. The only way to really figure out how much an rv weighs is to take it to a scale and have it weighed. The other thing to remember is that just because you meet the weight limits that they say you can pull, does not mean you will be happy with the performance you get when towing. This is a very subjective issue. But lets start with the truck.

RwaSmith
Explorer
Explorer
Been there done that.

Last year we purchased a VIBE 308BHS and love it.

I was told by Sales that my 2005 Lincoln Navigator would do just fine. So I purchased the trailer. And while we put a ton of miles on that combination last year without any issues. Even driving through what can be windy parts of Kansas. I never felt conferrable.

So to make this year better we just purchased a 2010 Suburban 2500.

I believe in the long run you will end up like me and getting a bigger TV.

Good luck and happy camping.
2016 Forrest River Vibe 308BHS
2010 Chevy Suburban 2500

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Please don't listen to the dealer (either GMC dealer or TT dealer) on what your Suburban can tow. Do the math yourself.

If you don't have access to a scale, or don't want to do all the weighing prior to final decision, at least do this.

1) Look on drivers door jamb for the yellow sticker. This will tell you what your max payload for the Suburban is. Lets say, for sake of argument, it is 2000lbs

2) Estimate the weight of all occupants, and potentially an estimate of what you might carry in the Suburban with the occupants. Subtract that from the payload number in item 1.

3) Look at the trailer max GVWR. This info is on the sticker on the left side of the trailer. If it is not spelled out specifically, it will have the unloaded vehicle weight (UVW) and the max cargo. Add these two numbers together. Lets say its 8800lbs as shown by 2012Coleman.

4) Take, for planning purposes, 15 percent of 8800. Your tongue weight should be between 10 and 15 percent of the trailer weight. Worse case would be 15 percent, typically try to hit 13. So, worse case, your tongue weight would be 1320

5) Your cargo number, on the yellow sticker in item 1, should exceed the sum of item 4 (tongue weight) and item 2 (passenger weight and whatever you carry in the Suburban), AND the weight of the weight distribution hitch (estimate 100 lbs). If the sum of these three figures exceed the value on the yellow sticker, you have too much trailer for the vehicle.

Now, one will/could argue that you won't load the trailer to max, and as such, save some weight. BUT, until you KNOW what you put in the trailer, you HAVE to estimate. So, estimate high to give yourself some cushion.

Thank you both for your service. As a retired AF guy myself, I know the sacrifices you BOTH have made.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

OldRacer
Explorer
Explorer
fun w son wrote:
we've all been there.... but the slide out issue is not an issue. think about this. if you have to stop along the way to get something out the TT, you will pull in somewhere with alot of room. you just open the door, hit the slide out button and get what you need... we do it all the time. once you get it home and load it the way you want it done, you will see that you're gonna put the things you need on the road close to the door where you can get them fast...

like i tell my wife "don't sweat the small stuff" haha
LoL!! my thoughts exactly. We have the dual slides and island. You dont have to extend the slides all the way out to get past the island. I dont see what the big deal is.
____________________________________________________________
Todd and Missi
2016 Keystone Passport 2770
former motorcycle roadracer turned bass angler (cheaper and doesnt hurt when i crash).

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Herimpression wrote:
Man, our dealer seemed so honest. I'm laughing at myself while typing that!


With vehicle dealers It's often not so much a matter of "honesty" but the fact that very few have anyone on staff who knows squat about towing a recreational vehicle ... and of course many RV dealers will tell you anything to make the sale. Unfortunately also you haven't provided (unless I've missed it) any details about your specific Sub other than saying it's a "1500". Heck, that could mean anything and as one who has been towing for 10 yrs now with GM 1/2 tons I'd say, without knowing more about your particular truck, that you really wouldn't want to tow much more than perhaps 6000 to 6500 lbs fully loaded, especially if you expect to tow over varied terrain that could involve significant upgrades and heavy head winds. Remember this isn't just about weight but most importantly about significant wind resistance created when trying to tow any full height trailer that has all the aerodynamics of a barn door ... believe it, that little Sub will be working it's heart out trying to cope with the task of towing such a large trailer as you have in mind.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

IBcarguy
Explorer
Explorer
We just bought a bunkhouse TT with dual slides and a center island. We love the center island, looks great and provides more counter space when preparing meals. We have an outside door in the bathroom so access on the road isn't an issue. The only set back is accessing the frig but it's no big deal to open the kitchen slide a few feet to open the frig door.
Everyone gets second thoughts about our choices. We really like this TT but now that we have it there are a couple of things that I wish I considered. The bunk bed area is small and cave like. I wish we had picked one with a real "room".
Anyway, we really like our center island and wouldn't pick anything else.

Anmacc2
Explorer
Explorer
Cognitive dissonance is the clinical term for buyers remorse... DW and I like full access even with the slide in. It's a personal choice. We very often just stop, grab some food and refreshments, take a nap, freshen up, and get back on the road.. Any parking lot works if we don't need to put the slide out. No right or wrong answer it just depends on how you're going to use your unit. As for the weight: the numbers you need are on your door panel of your tow vehicle and the entry door panel of the Travel Trailer. (Mine has the delivered weight which includes all upgrades and accessories and full propane tanks.) water and gear are not included.
Me & Her since 1977
TV 2014 Ford E350 Superduty
TT 2015 keystone Passport Elite 23RB
Boat 20' TriumphDC

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
so will the dealer let you switch? how much of a deposit would you lose if you back out? but yes, you made a very common problem, not seeing how livable the unit is with slides in, more important in a motorhome however.
bumpy

2012Coleman
Explorer
Explorer
OP wrote:
We decided to get a light TT so we didn't have to upgrade our vehicle.


This is a light TT?

Your planning on pulling a 37 foot TT that has a gross weight of 8800 lbs with a 1500 Suburban. I'd say you have a lot more worries than access to the island when the slides are closed.

I'd rethink your TV - understand what payload is.

Experience without good judgment is worthless; good judgment without experience is still good judgment!

2018 RAM 3500 Big Horn CTD
2018 Grand Design Reflection 303RLS

ccxnola
Explorer
Explorer
Relax and enjoy the trips!
You may also wish to get the Military Campground information software at: http://militarycampgrounds.us/
LINK
2001 National Tradewinds 7370 mid-entry DP w/CAT 3126b Diesel
Look for the Mardi Gras 'Gators - Laissez le bon temps roulez - Let the good times roll!!

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
I wouldn't worry about the layout. It is very easy to push a button and make room.

The trailer in question has a 7100lb dry weight, just like mine. However it only has a 1700lb CCC. With a family of 4 you will easily use up all that CCC. My trailer weighs 2100lbs more than the dry weight at 9200lbs for a week long trip. My trailer has an 11,200lb GVWR and a 4100lb CCC.
Oh ya and I'm towing it with a V-10 Excursion with 4.30 gears!
So there is no way your going to comfortably pull that trailer with a 1/2 ton Burb with probably a 5.3L and 3.45 gearing!

Good luck! I'de keep the trailer and upgrade to a 3/4 ton truck with more motor!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Murphsmom
Explorer
Explorer
How things change! We started out with a 17' trailer (with no bathroom) pulled by our passenger car and camped all over the western US without a problem. And yes, we did it with three kids. Now we pull a 25' Cougar with Dodge 1500 hemi for just the two of us, and we are looking into buying a 2500 to make towing easier.

My suggestion would be to look into a used trailer for your first unit. Something that is suitable for the three of you and has already depreciated. Then, once you figure out whether trailer camping is really what you want to do, look into upgrading to the rig you need down the road.

Traveling with a trailer should be fun, not a white knuckle trip wondering if your tow vehicle is going to be able to get up the next hill or if the wind is going to make you swerve all over the road.