Carhauler to RV

[Harleybullet]

Anybody ever see in there campgrounds these Carhaulers converted to RV trailer
Youtube has many ways on how to convert them with you everything you need and more;

Priced are thru the roof so this maybe4 a way out and more.

Let me know you comment good and bad..... Dave

[JIMNLIN]

When I looked "utility" "cargo" "car hauler" have basically the same GVWR for comparable sizes. My 7x14 cargo has 7,000lb GVWR, once you get to 16 or 18 ft you can easily get a 10,000 GVWR and it goes up from their.

I'm sure the OP knows about weights but many folks forget the 7k gvwr trailer doesn't have a 7000 lb of CCC.
Example one of my flatbed car haulers has a 10000 lb gvwr but weighs 2640 lbs leaving around 7k lbs of CCC....steel frame trailers of course.
The 18' 7k car hauler I had weighed 1520 lbs.
I'm sure a cargo trailer frames are about the same construction.

My neighbor lady has a 22' cargo she does house keeping and yard work (retired OTR driver). Her trailer sat really low to the ground making it drag getting around on new yard work sites and carrying a 4wd 26 hp tractor. One of our neighbors is a certified pressure welder flipped her trailers axles and added 5/16" side plates to the spring hangers.

Maybe I missed it OP but are you planning more roof/walls/floor insulation ??

[valhalla360]

Harleybullet wrote:
Guys I do not know how we got to toy haulers and horse trailers but I am talking about an enclosed cargo trailer that every contractor uses. I have had 3 trailers 26, 25, and 16 years ago and know what they are. Most recently I had a truck camper with a slide but because of health reasons we sold it (big mistake they are a fortune now) I still have my Ram dually diesel 4x4 and it runs great 1999. We usually go out to Quartzite for Jan and Feb and then travel from NY.

a Vee nose 7x16 or 18 with barn doors with an additional 1 foot high is what I am considering, raising the height can be done by flipping the axal and then I could build the floor up in the front and would not have to worry about freezing of tanks. LP for maybe a wave heater and a cook top also a tankless water heater for shower. Better half wants a real toilet. fridge could be a small compressor type with less draw amp,
Am considering solar with acid batteries at least 2 and I do have a 2500 watt Champion that can run on gas or LP. I have built a room on my house so this is not a completely out of the question dream. Thanks

What are you hoping to accomplish?

It will be more expensive than a small toyhauler trailer by the time you get done.
A lot of private parks will not let you in.
And it's going look very redneck.

You can get all the things you list in a standard RV.

[Gdetrailer]

Normal thread drift..

I looked at the idea of converting a cargo trailer, but really, they are even more expensive than a travel trailer of the same size.

They are much heavier empty weight than a travel trailer of same size.

Typically the smaller cargo trailers you would be considering are rather low head height unless you order one built to your specs.

HERE is just one example..

"

Standard Features

Ramp Door w/ Spring Assist (no extension flap)
White or Black metal exterior (.024)
12V Dome light with switch
ST205 15? RADIAL tires
Aerodynamic styling
Non-powered roof vent
Silver Mod Wheels
Aluminum fenders w/lights
LED Strip tail lights
32? Strap Hinge Side Door w/ Bar Lock
3/4? plywood floor/Painted Underneath
Wall members 24? o.c.
V-Nose with vertical ATP trim
3/8? OSB plywood sidewalls
Floor crossmembers 24?o.c.
1×1? steel tube in walls and ceiling
Roof members 24? o.c.
3500lb l/spring axles with 4? drop & Electric Brakes
75? Interior height
Screwed metal exterior
EZ Lube Hubs
2000 lb tongue jack
Galvalume roof
24? Stoneguard on front
2×4? steel tube main rails
7-way Round elec. Plug/ 2 5/16? coupler"



$4225.. for bare bones basic

To get what you want with extra height and extra options, you will have to go with the "premium version" At $5225 and the extra height is additional charge on top of that..

By the time you option a cargo trailer out your going to be easily $8K-$9K and that is before you even get started with making it a travel trailer..

[Grit_dog]

You haven’t been around much here I take it?
These guys scant stay on topic for more than 1/2 page of replies. And usually end up arguing with each other over something stupid like whether it’s a car hauler or a cargo trailer! Lol.
It’s like romper room for old men….

[Harleybullet]

Guys I do not know how we got to toy haulers and horse trailers but I am talking about an enclosed cargo trailer that every contractor uses. I have had 3 trailers 26, 25, and 16 years ago and know what they are. Most recently I had a truck camper with a slide but because of health reasons we sold it (big mistake they are a fortune now) I still have my Ram dually diesel 4x4 and it runs great 1999. We usually go out to Quartzite for Jan and Feb and then travel from NY.

a Vee nose 7x16 or 18 with barn doors with an additional 1 foot high is what I am considering, raising the height can be done by flipping the axal and then I could build the floor up in the front and would not have to worry about freezing of tanks. LP for maybe a wave heater and a cook top also a tankless water heater for shower. Better half wants a real toilet. fridge could be a small compressor type with less draw amp,
Am considering solar with acid batteries at least 2 and I do have a 2500 watt Champion that can run on gas or LP. I have built a room on my house so this is not a completely out of the question dream. Thanks

[ktmrfs]

mobeewan wrote:
An advantage of building your own out of an enclosed car hauler or an enclosed utility trailer is that you can build it the way you want it. You can use better materials and better building methods than the cheesy cheap materials and construction methods used on most small trailers. You also don't have to worry about shaking and bouncing it apart when going down rough roads to camp in isolated areas.

If your truck is adequate you can get it there in one piece. I plan on living in mine for the rest of my life once it's built and don't want something that I'm constantly doing maintenance on because it's falling apart. I've got a 28 ft travel trailer and can live in it, but I won't be able to take it where I want to and I don't want to worry about it falling apart on me pulling it down bumpy roads trying to go where I can't get to.

Yeah, it's going to cost me more to build than to buy something ready made, but it will be better and I did mention I'll be living in it the rest of my life.

One thing to look at if your going to travel off paved roads is ground clearance. Many Many cargo/utility/car haulers have pretty low ground clearance and often come with Torsion axles. That means raising them for ground clearance is a whole new axle set. you can specify the "lift" on torsion axles if you order a trailer to get the clearance you want. if it has a "conventional" spring setup likely may need to flip the axle, much easier to do.

When I looked "utility" "cargo" "car hauler" have basically the same GVWR for comparable sizes. My 7x14 cargo has 7,000lb GVWR, once you get to 16 or 18 ft you can easily get a 10,000 GVWR and it goes up from their. My 7x14 empty weight was 3,000lbs giving me 4,000 for cargo and stuff I added.

[mobeewan]

An advantage of building your own out of an enclosed car hauler or an enclosed utility trailer is that you can build it the way you want it. You can use better materials and better building methods than the cheesy cheap materials and construction methods used on most small trailers. You also don't have to worry about shaking and bouncing it apart when going down rough roads to camp in isolated areas.

If your truck is adequate you can get it there in one piece. I plan on living in mine for the rest of my life once it's built and don't want something that I'm constantly doing maintenance on because it's falling apart. I've got a 28 ft travel trailer and can live in it, but I won't be able to take it where I want to and I don't want to worry about it falling apart on me pulling it down bumpy roads trying to go where I can't get to.

Yeah, it's going to cost me more to build than to buy something ready made, but it will be better and I did mention I'll be living in it the rest of my life.

[mobeewan]

StirCrazy wrote:
you dont want an "cargo trailer" you want an "enclosed car hauler" you may be calling them the same thing but there is a difference. the cargo trailer will be built a loght lighter and have a lower GVWR , the enclose car hauler will have a better heavier build and will be able to carry more weight. I have seen a few of thease kinds of builds and if done right they can look pretty nice.

Steve

The enclosed utility trailer/cargo trailer, not toy hauler, not enclosed toy hauler, that I'll be building, has a 7,000 lb or 10,000 lb gross vehicle weight rating depending on axles ordered with it. It is 7 ft x 16 ft and I will be building it out to live in the rest of my life. Black tank, grey tank, 40 gallon fresh water tank under the bed, 800 - 1000w rooftop solar panels, d.c. compressor refrigerator & shower.

[Thermoguy]

Not a cargo trailer, but a horse trailer with living quarters would do what you are asking. You might be able to find a nice used 2 horse bumper pull, not the long 45' trailers, but a short 2 horse. I have seen a couple with a pop out on the side for the bed, most amenities, and hauls 2 horses, this can be used for toys, etc. You would probably pay more than a comparable size RV trailer, but it is built stronger, solid roof, etc. It would also have all the plumbing and holding tanks, which I would think would be the hardest part of any build.

[JRscooby]

ktmrfs wrote:

I have 40 gallons of grey tank under the floor of my Pace cargo trailer I converted. there IS room. I put the fresh tank (20 gallon) at the front behind the counter.

I guess it would depend on the factory ground clearance and where you want to take the trailer. Guy I saw often on job sites had break and shear in cargo trailer. Had to grade a pretty good road for him to set up, compared to the trailers for white hats.
I guess I should mention that if I was designing for me, I would want the drain to come out bottom of tank, then elbow to hose, instead of out the side of tank.

StirCrazy wrote:
you dont want an "cargo trailer" you want an "enclosed car hauler" you may be calling them the same thing but there is a difference. the cargo trailer will be built a loght lighter and have a lower GVWR , the enclose car hauler will have a better heavier build and will be able to carry more weight. I have seen a few of thease kinds of builds and if done right they can look pretty nice.

Steve

Not sure you can't a cargo trailer the same size as car hauler, with the same GVWR. The floor might be designed to support weight over a wide area, instead of just the area of tire tracks.

[StirCrazy]

you dont want an "cargo trailer" you want an "enclosed car hauler" you may be calling them the same thing but there is a difference. the cargo trailer will be built a loght lighter and have a lower GVWR , the enclose car hauler will have a better heavier build and will be able to carry more weight. I have seen a few of thease kinds of builds and if done right they can look pretty nice.

Steve

[ktmrfs]

JRscooby wrote:
I have had some thoughts about this. 8 foot inside height cargo trailer will be less than 10 ft outside. IMHO, not much of a issue. OTOH, a cargo trailer does not have ground clearance for tanks under floor. But mount tanks on top of factory floor, put a floor above them. Forethought on location off tanks, pull-outs at doorways, and you have storage in a location great for hauling heavy things. And removeable floor sections would be great to access thing that you only need to see rarely, like batteries.
If you have a water heater, I don't think a hand or foot pump would work.
Swing rear doors, rear kitchen. Mount stove, sink and or counter to door with some way to slide up/down. Up, use inside. Nice weather, open door slide down, stand on ground.
Dump waste water on the ground? Really? Give approval to that on RV site? Really? What is a better way to reduce the number of places to spend a night.

I have 40 gallons of grey tank under the floor of my Pace cargo trailer I converted. there IS room. I put the fresh tank (20 gallon) at the front behind the counter.

I agree on the ramp door. Mine has one because I use it as a toy hauler and use it to haul my motorcycles. Even then swing out doors are an option.

I did 6ft 6 inside, tall enough to have overhead lights and still not bump my head. Mine is 7ft wide. 14 long. If I ever do another it would be 8 x 16. Mostly for more bike room and storage room.

propane stove, propane forced air heat, water pump, but just a small dorm electric fridge running of an small inverter. And for toilet there are nice cassette toilets or a 5 gallon porta potty. No need for a black tank. No oven, but a 2 burner propane cooktop and a small microwave.

One bed is a fold down, and took the folding rear seat from my old van as a combo fold down bed or couch for use with pop in the floor dinette. Fold up against the wall to store the motorycles.

But all this take time and tools to do well. I did all the cabinets myself using cardboard templates, curved roof line makes store bought cabinets not very useful.

since I use it as a toyhauler, I had the floor rhino lined, and have a roll out indoor/outdoor carpet pad. Easy to clean.

[JRscooby]

I have had some thoughts about this. 8 foot inside height cargo trailer will be less than 10 ft outside. IMHO, not much of a issue. OTOH, a cargo trailer does not have ground clearance for tanks under floor. But mount tanks on top of factory floor, put a floor above them. Forethought on location off tanks, pull-outs at doorways, and you have storage in a location great for hauling heavy things. And removeable floor sections would be great to access thing that you only need to see rarely, like batteries.
If you have a water heater, I don't think a hand or foot pump would work.
Swing rear doors, rear kitchen. Mount stove, sink and or counter to door with some way to slide up/down. Up, use inside. Nice weather, open door slide down, stand on ground.
Dump waste water on the ground? Really? Give approval to that on RV site? Really? What is a better way to reduce the number of places to spend a night.

[ajriding]

Actually, not all was sound...
Guys that have not built one don't really know any more than you do, probably less.

I would buy a used, useless camper that has working appliances, and gut it. You will save a lot of money getting the RV stuff out of a used camper than buying new. You can easily spend $10k buying individual parts otherwise. Less than $2k for a used trailer that has water damage, but perfect parts.

Dont bother letting the cargo trailer builder insulate it. Don't even have them put in plywood walls, they will only make a mess of it, better to do that yourself and do it right.

In the ceiling you want at least 2 inches if not 3 of insulation, the cargo co will put in 1.
You want to isolate the steel frame so it does not conduct heat across the wall into the interior.
Put in at least 2 inches of insulation in the walls, not 1 as the cargo co will do - now you see why pointless to have them put in walls.

Everything as light as possible. the ceiling would look great using tongue n groove flooring as many van builds do but will add a LOT of weight, just use 1/8 paneling and paint it. Lightweight is good.

Unless you plan to also use it as a cargo trailer, then reconsider doing a big rear ramp door. It seems like a good idea to open it and have a big opening to look out, but if it is warm enough to do that then it is warm enough to go outside and have unlimited views. You lose a lot of storage space when u put in big doors.


The size is up to you. Consider how small you can go if that matters at all. can you sleep sideways (wall to wall) in a 6 footer? a 6.5 footer? The more narrow will be better for towing and aerodynamics and using mirrors. I would go a few feet longer and a foot more narrow if that were the options. 8 foot is also really high and you get into clearance issues under branches and whatever. Do you really need an extra 2 feet above your head in a little trailer? Consider just 6.5 ft height.

SInce u are building it you can customize it. Look at installing an air cond window unit, so you do not have the loud, inefficient RV air/con on the roof, out in the wind.
You can get a 5200BTU window unit for about $99 that will cool down a cargo trailer in minutes and will run on a tiny generator too. Or spring for a mini-split that is very efficient.
You can build the window unit into the interior of camper since you are starting scratch.

Water tanks, go big if you plan to boondock.
Gray/black tanks? Depends. Boondocking you can dump gray on dirt, and there are other options for the toilet than a black tank.

The propane water heater will be hard to get away from. Other items might make sense to re-think.
A traditional water pump, or one at the sink that is a fauct/pump?
Do you want to build a shower and take up all that space or make a temporary shower that you deploy inside or outside and use the sink faucet... That is space you will not use 23:45 of the day.

For space heater look at the diesel heaters, they will not need a lot of battery like a propane furnace.

Solar? Yes.

Battery, maybe a li-ion makes sense, maybe just a couple of golf cart batteries, lots of discussion on this...

WIndows? small or big? big eats up storage space and loses heat faster than an insulated wall.

Be sure to plan your electrical so you run all the wiring, and run enough wiring for future needs.

Cooktop? Maybe use just a portable camping stove instead of a built-in. Maybe a built-in makes sense for you. The portable ones do not simmer well at all though.

Fridge? I would go DC chest fridge for sure. Dont waste time with propane fridge.

On that, if you go alternative on everything then you will not be using as much out of that used camper, but all the hardware and pieces might still make it worth it, just have to do the math.

[Harleybullet]

Tanks guys you gave me some sound comment pro and con I will give it some more thought but it sounded good on paper... who

THANKS I WILL LET YOU KNOW