Desperate for ideas on windshield replacement

[GrannyGrump]

Hi everyone and thanks in advance for any help you might be able to provide me.
I have a specialized old travel trailer. It's an old AWARD 30 ft trailer. We don't use it often and in general we really like it BUT the parts are very hard to come by for repairs. They come out of Canada.

Here is my problem. The windshield has cracked pretty much beyond repair and at this time I cannot afford to replace it with a new one from the factory. That cost is about 1500.00 and I just don't have it, but I need to get something to replace it or cover it for several months and I want it to look decent and not leak.

I originally planned to put a piece of Lexan to replace it and at the last minute the supplier tells me they won't do the job because of the curve of the nose they won't guarantee it and then they almost doubled the price of their original quote to cut it for me to attempt it myself.

For the time being I was considering just covering the window with plywood or something else for the winter because it is not kept in a storage unit but I want it to be secure for towing and something that won't leak and that is removeable down the line for a good window. Is this possible? Has anyone done this? Do you have other suggestions. We are operating on a shoe string right now and can't afford to spend more than about 400 hundred right now.

All suggestions are appreciated.

Here is a picture of the trailer before we got the shell back on. We have the shell back now.

[wmoses]

Oh I understand now that you pointed it out. I know the difference between the two actually, just was not aware that trailers of that age came with double pane windows so that never occurred to me.

[Gdetrailer]

wmoses wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
I would think that making a DIY double panel like OEM would be a bit of a stretch so I would think you are going to have to settle on single pane.

Isn't that the reverse of what he has? I believe he has a one-piece and some are advising that a two-piece would be easier.

I think you have a SPLIT PANE window confused with a double pane window.

SPLIT pane would be dividing the window in half (think double hung or slider window where you have two distinct separate window panes creating a divided window look).

Double pane (which is what the OEM window is) is known as a "thermo pane" window. Basically put you have two pieces of glass (in this case plastic) which have a gasket in between the outer edges of the window. This keeps the inside glass physically separated from the outside glass and typically a vacuum is drawn then a dry inert gas is drawn into the space in between the glass. This creates a higher R value than a single piece of glass can achieve.

Typically a thermo pane window is not a DIY type project since most home owners simply do not have the place nor the equipment to execute the project. The glass surface must be spotless, you must have a good clean room, good gasket material and the right inert gas. Fail on any one of those items and the glass will fog up..

The OP most likely could get a glass place to make a bent plastic thermo pane window but I am not sure if is going to be any more cost effective to do that over simply buying the OEM window which would be a ready to go drop in place part.

[owenssailor]

Original windows in the award trailers are a double layer unit with air in between.

[wmoses]

Gdetrailer wrote:
I would think that making a DIY double panel like OEM would be a bit of a stretch so I would think you are going to have to settle on single pane.

Isn't that the reverse of what he has? I believe he has a one-piece and some are advising that a two-piece would be easier.

[Gdetrailer]

dodge guy wrote:
Sorry, i said glass. I meant plastic front window.

Never thought it would be plastic from factory!

Here is my thoughts on this..

Plexi or Lexan CAN be "bent" with the proper amount of heat. I have done this in the past with SMALL pieces but never with this size.

A few internet searches basically reveals some ways that it can be done DIY.

Some have mentioned a hair dryer, propane torch, heat gun (typically used to strip paint or shrink heat shrink tubing), heating pads and so on.

In the past I simply used a home oven (like I said small parts) set to 350 or so. Basically made a form for the plexi to sit on and placed in the oven. Then wait for plexi to get soft and mold into the form. Take out and let cool.

Large sheets of plexi and Lexan are not cheap so you don't want to make any mistakes (basically need to nail it the first try).

I would recommend making a form which fits into the window opening. Basically place a piece of plywood behind the opening then with strips of wood you build up the form to meet the curves of the opening.

Take the form out of the opening and now you have an easy means to work with the plexi or Lexan.

If you have the budget I would say Lexan would be the better choice since it won't shatter like plexi does if you don't get it hot enough.

You need to heat it slowly otherwise you can blister it, one place mentioned the idea of heating pads and blankets and wait several hrs for the plastic to soften (this may be the best solution since direct heat can over heat the plastic to fast and blister or even burn it).

You could even make a make shift "oven", just need to make a box big enough to fit the form and insulate it well then add some heat source like heat lamps or a couple of electric heaters. Add in a thermometer to monitor the temps.

You only need enough heat to simply soften the plastic, once soft it will easily conform to your form.

I would cut the plastic a bit larger than your form leaving extra will allow for any mistakes like not lining up the plastic perfectly with the form.

Thinner plastic will form easier but too thin will allow more flex than you want or need so you are going to have to balance that carefully. I'm thinking 1/8" might be too thin and may want to bend and or pop out while towing. 1/4" most likely would be the better choice since it should stay rigid enough to withstand highway speeds.

I would think that making a DIY double panel like OEM would be a bit of a stretch so I would think you are going to have to settle on single pane.

As far as mounting the plexi, you can find rubber gasket material which should be similar to what the OEM window used, just not sure as to how you seal up the two ends when they meet together so they stay sealed. You could use the old school auto glazing sealant which was used on vehicles in the 1980s or older, typically called bedding compound if I remember correctly. This stuff makes a mess but boy does it make a good seal..

[GrannyGrump]

Yes they are very distinctive and very low profile,that's one thing I love. Ours is the 95' 30ft model. She has 2 doors.
Here is a side pic of her before we started the work.

[dodge_guy]

Sounds good. definitely let us know how/what you decided on.

Here was ours.





BTW, we originally towed this with a 95 4 dr V-6 Explorer. then a Dodge conv. van when we knew we were going to get something a bit bigger.

[GrannyGrump]

dodge guy wrote:
No metal frame. It was a 2 piece glass (picture a thermo pain) and was sealed at the ends and had a rubber weatherstrip/seal around it that sealed to the trailer, this is where they leaked and why the OP had to repair the front wall. I had a 93 Award 727 trailer and it had A small leak at the front that i stopped before it caused any damage! They are excellent towing trailers to bad they were plagued with the water leak issue!

I would get a piece large enough to cover the opening and then heat it to conform to the contour of the front, IIRC it was only rounded side-side not up/down? Then maybe build some kind of frame to hold it and screw that into the opening?

Thanks Dodge Guy for the explanation. I was trying to figure out how to say that. This little trailer is great and we love it but by accident found the leak issue you mentioned and my husband has been learning how to fix it trial and error. He has done a great job of getting the water damage corrected but this window is a real trial. Also one of our main problems is that he has less that 2 weeks left to get it done and can only work on it when he has a free moment. Add to that a very limited budget and you have US.

Anyway, he really likes a lot of the ideas you have posted and this weekend we will be starting whatever seems the most functional for us. I hope to be able to post the results here in a couple of weeks.

[dodge_guy]

Sorry, i said glass. I meant plastic front window.

[wmoses]

beemerphile1 wrote:
Unless it is important to retain the original design I would do one of two things.

1 reframe with a center post and install two standard flat windows.

2 reframe the whole area flat and install one large flat window.

Best answer I have seen so far. This is an old trailer and the OP is on a budget. If it were me I'd save myself a lot of aggravation and make it a 2 piece design with a centre "rib" which would be stronger than a 1 piece design. I'd also use acrylic of a good thickness for the job and invest in something to cut it with. Should be under budget for all that.

[Gdetrailer]

dodge guy wrote:
No metal frame. It was a 2 piece glass (picture a thermo pain) and was sealed at the ends and had a rubber weatherstrip/seal around it that sealed to the trailer, this is where they leaked and why the OP had to repair the front wall. I had a 93 Award 727 trailer and it had A small leak at the front that i stopped before it caused any damage! They are excellent towing trailers to bad they were plagued with the water leak issue!

I would get a piece large enough to cover the opening and then heat it to conform to the contour of the front, IIRC it was only rounded side-side not up/down? Then maybe build some kind of frame to hold it and screw that into the opening?

No wonder it is expensive.

A glass shop is really the best place to go unless the OP pops for the OEM replacement of $1500.

I'm thinking OP is needing a temporary fix at this point and really in that case anything would work as long as it repels water.

[dodge_guy]

No metal frame. It was a 2 piece glass (picture a thermo pain) and was sealed at the ends and had a rubber weatherstrip/seal around it that sealed to the trailer, this is where they leaked and why the OP had to repair the front wall. I had a 93 Award 727 trailer and it had A small leak at the front that i stopped before it caused any damage! They are excellent towing trailers to bad they were plagued with the water leak issue!

I would get a piece large enough to cover the opening and then heat it to conform to the contour of the front, IIRC it was only rounded side-side not up/down? Then maybe build some kind of frame to hold it and screw that into the opening?

[Gdetrailer]

Grannygrump, hopefully you still have the metal frame. If you do then try contacting a local home and business glass shop, these are the places which replace window for business and homes.

Bending and tempering is a specialty but I can’t see that it would cost $1500 unless it involves a lot of shipping, heck even auto windshields can be had for $250 or a bit less (and they are laminated and tempered)..

Most of these places can cut and have the glass bent to your specs and in the case of RVs they WILL need to temper the glass (this is a special heat/chemical treatment which increases the glass strength plus makes the glass break into small less sharp pieces).

Not all places can bend or temper the glass but often can send it out to a third party to have it done.

Second place to check is custom hot rod shops, these are the places which often chop roof height of a custom vehicle. When chopping the height of the vehicle roof they will need to have a custom windshield made which will be cut, bent, laminated and then tempered. Most likely they don't make the windshield but send the job out to another company. They may be able to give you a good contact to get the job done.

Baring anything else you could contact a glass place that I am aware of which has been making specialty bent window glass for homes and businesses.

STANDARD BENT GLASS COMPANY

Standard Bent Glass CO
136 Lincoln Avenue
East Butler, PA 16029
Phone: (724) 287-3747
Web: Standardbent.com (my browser indicates the website has been listed as a potential security threat, it may have been under an attack, I would suggest giving a call on the phone)

Standard Bent Glass CO
A privately held company in East Butler, PA.
More Details for Standard Bent Glass CO
Categorized under Glass Sheet Bent: Made From Purchased Glass, our records show it was established in 1991 and incorporated in Pennsylvania, current estimates show this company has an annual revenue of $10 to 20 million and employs a staff of approximately 50 to 99.
· Products or Services
Companies like Standard Bent Glass CO usually offer: Sheets Of Plexi Glass, Glass Cookie Sheet, Magnifying Glass Coloring Sheet, Glass Sheets and Magnifying Glass Sheets.

You are in Texas so I did a search using “bent glass in texas” and here is results..

DOGPILE SEARCH FOR BENT GLASS IN TEXAS
Be sure to specify that your glass is going into a RV and will need to be tempered.

If you can't get the glass before winter and you are simply trying to weather proof your rebuild then consider buying a sheet of FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Panel) from Home Depot or Lowes. It isn't see through but it will bend to the contours.

This is the stuff that is commonly used in many commercial bathrooms. Has a pebbled textured side and a smooth side. A 4x8 sheet costs $28, cut it with a jig saw with fine tooth blade (use a dust mask). Then you can add some putty around the window opening and screw it down with short drywall screws.

Good luck with your project!

[Drippin]

naturist wrote:
Methyl hydrate, aka methanol, does nothing to/for acrylic sheeting (Plexiglass being a trademarked brand of acrylic sheeting). Methylene chloride, aka dichloromethane, is the solvent used to bond acrylic sheeting.

Actually Lexan is the GE Brand name for Polycarbonate.