Drivers Door Controls

[marpel]

2012 GMC Sierra 1500.

The driver's armrest controls, for front passenger window and both side mirrors, have stopped working.

Initially, I was unable to raise/lower the front passenger window, although it can be operated by the passenger. I am now unable to move either side mirror.

The controls can still operate all other windows as well as all door locks.

Funny enough, the controls starting acting up just prior to ordering a new truck (22 GMC Sierra 2500). Part of the deal includes the current truck as a trade-in, although I have the option to sell it privately.

On my previous truck, I was able to replace the passenger side front door window actuator, but that was a manually operated window, so I have some experience pulling a door apart etc. However, as this is electric components, I have no experience with this stuff.

It appears the electrical component for all the driver's door operations is contained in one single device, just under the armrest. Having said that, I have yet to confirm if this component is the problem.

If I sell the vehicle privately, I want to replace/fix the issue prior to sale, but as the issue was present during the trade-in inspection, I am likely to leave it as is (but I may change my mind on that).

So, does anyone have any experience doing this operation and can offer some advice? It would cost about $600 (CDN) to have it done, but about $325 for the component alone.


Marv

[BurbMan]

Who's this guy posting about his 1500, I thought this was a Tow Vehicle forum?!?!
:B :B :B
At any rate it's usually the switch assembly that has corroded contacts and needs replacing, but glad you got it resolved.

[Grit_dog]

Wow, crazy! Thanks for posting the solution.

[BobsYourUncle]

Hey Marv, that's awesome!
Thanks for updating with the solution. It does help others here for future repairs of that same issue.
You got away like a bandit, I had to replace a wiring harness!

[marpel]

Thought I would post the resolution to this issue:

I figured I would try the least expensive and least time-consuming fix first, so I (thanks to the suggestion of folivier and after watching a couple Youtube videos) removed the drivers door interior handle, removed the bezel for the switches in the arm rest, and removed those switches.

I took the switches apart (unclipping the two halves) and removed the rubber gasket between the upper and lower half of the switches, allowing access to the contacts.

Using a pencil eraser (Youtube suggestions ranged from scraping with a screwdriver tip, rubbing with sandpaper, rubbing with a cleaning solution to rubbing with an eraser - I took one of the least intrusive methods), I rubbed away what appeared to be minute corrosion until contacts on both sides were clean and shiny.

Replaced the switches and voila! everything worked.

Couple comments about this procedure:

Not as difficult as I anticipated - whole operation took way less than an hour.
The corrosion was almost imperceptible - but it was obvious (used a magnifying glass to make it easier) on the exact switch contacts that were causing the problems.
Thank god for Youtube (and those who visit forums who have some knowledge of these things). I watched a few other videos, some by working mechanics, and many did not even try this process, but just chucked the switch and replaced with new. Had I gone that route, it would have been way more costly than this $O fix. Other than the corrosion, the switches looked pretty good and certainly not worth throwing out.

So, thanks to all who participated in this thread.

Marv

[BobsYourUncle]

Thanks Marv, I am very curious to know what the actual culprit is, especially after what I went through trying to figure mine out.

[marpel]

BobsYourUncle,

Unfortunately, due to a trip and then having the grand-daughter (....oh, and her parents) visit for the last week, I put off dealing with this issue.

Coincidently, dropped them off at the airport today, so as soon as the weather cooperates a bit (currently a gazillion degrees below zero and about 6 inches of snow on the ground, and any work will be done outside as the garage is taken up by my woodworking shop), I will re-direct my attention to it.

I have removed, and replaced, multiple dash panels for an aftermarket Nav system in the past so hopefully, this won't be any more difficult.

Marv

[BobsYourUncle]

So Marv, Did you git 'er fixed?
Do tell, what was the final prognosis?

[marpel]

Thanks for the replies. I found a Youtube video describing how to dismantle and clean the contacts. And will take a look at the wiring as well. Both good suggestions and, hopefully, a cheap resolution to the problem.

Marv

[folivier]

You can carefully pull off the cover (YouTube has videos on how to) and clean out the contacts. They are very susceptible to getting dust/crud and might work properly after cleaning. Had this happen on my 2010 Silverado and was able to get them working.

[BobsYourUncle]

Hi Marv,

I had nearly exactly the same problem with my 2007. And it was intermittent too.
I too could not raise / lower the passenger window from the drivers side, but could with the passenger side control.
And I had similar issues with other components, one being the dome light would not operate half the time.

After some head scratching and research, I found the culprit was 2 broken wires inside the boot that carries the harness from the door to the door pillar. From years of opening and closing the drivers door, 2 wires broke inside the harness, and inside the plastic coating. The coating was partly broken too, exposing wire strands.

I took the door panel off, and also removed the flexible boot from the door to expose the harness. Then I pulled the black wrap off the harness to expose the wires. That's when I found it. It is tricky to get in there, but I was able to get a couple fingers on each hand on each side of the wire. A gentle pull and it came right apart.

As a temporary measure, I was able patch in a short wire, joining the 2 together. I then wrapped electrical tape around the offending wires, then around the harness and put it all back together.
Success! It worked perfect for about 2 years when it came apart again.

The proper solution was to replace the complete door harness.

I went to the stealership to buy a new harness to replace it but they wanted some crazy stupid price for it. I think it was 700 and something or something ridiculous like that. I went to the local auto wrecking yard and they let me pull one from a wreck in the yard. $15.
Easy job to replace, took me about an hour to pull it apart and change it.

It has worked perfect ever since.

Not saying this is your issue, but your symptoms are nearly identical. Before you start changing the switch assembly, check out the harness first.