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Duramax boost leak?

N-Trouble
Explorer
Explorer
I believe I have a boost leak on my truck and pressure tested the system recently up to 30PSI. Looking for any feedback on whether this looks like a boost leak or is normal engine leakdown? Seems excessive to me to be normal leakdown on a non-overlap motor such as the Duramax. I can hear what sounds like air rushing out of the system in the area around the EGR cooler or Y-bridge. No leaks found on any of the intercooler up/down pipes.

Truck is a 2012 and gets pretty poor mileage, regens every ~200mi and feels gutless at high altitude 7-8k ft. Have to floor it just to hold 50-55MPH pulling hills with an 10-11k lb 5er.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycfQ4IzFJxk
2015 Attitude 28SAG w/slide
2012 GMC 2500HD SLT Duramax
B&W Turnover w/Andersen Ultimate 5er hitch
9 REPLIES 9

N-Trouble
Explorer
Explorer
Exactly, an open or leaking EGR IS a source of a possible boost leak. I'm not trying to perform an "engine" leak down.
2015 Attitude 28SAG w/slide
2012 GMC 2500HD SLT Duramax
B&W Turnover w/Andersen Ultimate 5er hitch

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
N-Trouble wrote:
rhagfo wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
I'm still trying to figure out what you're doing?

How did you block off the turbo and intake manifold to check for the leak because that's the only way I know of to check for a boost leak? :h


X2


This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5XoOe3Zjuo

There is nothing to block off. Test is done post turbo. YOur just simulating the turbo with compressed air.


Got ya.
I see what you're doing now. Kind of a weird and crude way to leak down an engine but I guess it works.

Only problem is if the EGR valve is open or leaks it will give you a false reading. It will just run from the intake through the EGR valve and out the exhaust.

Anyway, to answer your question: I don't like a new broken in engine to leak down more than 2%. A well used engine I don't like to see more than 7%.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


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outside the fire"

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christopherglen
Explorer
Explorer
You are disconnecting the silicone coupler from the turbo, putting a plug with an air supply in its place, and charging to 10-20 psi. This will test all but the turbo to coupler connection.
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N-Trouble
Explorer
Explorer
rhagfo wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
I'm still trying to figure out what you're doing?

How did you block off the turbo and intake manifold to check for the leak because that's the only way I know of to check for a boost leak? :h


X2


This: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5XoOe3Zjuo

There is nothing to block off. Test is done post turbo. YOur just simulating the turbo with compressed air.
2015 Attitude 28SAG w/slide
2012 GMC 2500HD SLT Duramax
B&W Turnover w/Andersen Ultimate 5er hitch

ACZL
Explorer
Explorer
Wooshing sound is most likely a intercooler leak. Had this happen on my '03 Powerstroke. Where it was leaking, dunno, dealer found/fixed it. From what the OP is saying about being gutless, then the turbo has lost it's boost and effectiveness. If it is the intercooler, look into aftermarket ones (ie: Banks Power for example). May cost a tad more, but probly better performance over stock.
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2018 Big Country 3560 SS
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rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
I'm still trying to figure out what you're doing?

How did you block off the turbo and intake manifold to check for the leak because that's the only way I know of to check for a boost leak? :h


X2
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2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

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Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
I'm still trying to figure out what you're doing?

How did you block off the turbo and intake manifold to check for the leak because that's the only way I know of to check for a boost leak? :h
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

Sport45
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'd try a couple of things.

  1. Set the air regulator at 20 psi, open the valve and let it hold the manifold pressure there. Go back to the exhaust and see if you can hear any air escaping. Maybe hold some cling wrap over the exhaust to see if it tries to inflate.
  2. Set the regulator at 2-3 psi. Put a healthy squirt of dish soap in a half gallon of water and mix in a pump sprayer. Hose everything down with the soap solution and look for bubbles. If no bubbles are seen hose it down again and slowly raise the pressure until you know it's not holding. Hose it down again.


The first test will let you know if you're losing air through the engine. Could be a burnt/leaking valve or leaking EGR valve. The second test helps find external leaks. Hose the soap off with fresh water when you're done.
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ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
It's a really good question.. How much, if any leakage is acceptable? My thought is any leakage is bad but I don't know for sure.
Looking forward to hearing what people in the know say.