Electrical Problem Battery Draw

[jdeco01]

My 2007 Host Camper has a problem that I can't figure out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. When not connected to AC or the truck, the generator not running, and the battery shutoff switch is turned to off, there is a draw on the battery of 1.5 amps, measured with a multimeter by disconnecting the battery ground cable and measuring the current between the cable and the battery ground terminal. What is particularly strange is that the battery draw will remain as long as I hold the probe to the ground terminal. When I remove the probe and then reconnect it, there is no current. Approximately 7 minutes later the battery draw returns. If I leave the battery cables connected, it drains the two 6 volt golf cart batteries in a few days, depending on how fully they were charged. As far as I can tell, the only circuits that are not disconnected by the battery cutoff switch are the jacks, slide outs, and converter/generator circuits. I have disconnected the jack circuits, but the battery draw is still there. I'm still trying to locate the controller for the slide circuits. However, the fact that the battery draw takes several minutes to return suggests to me that some electrical component is "resetting" during that period. Anyone had this problem or know the answer.

[jdeco01]

I think I found the problem. It turns out that the DC circuit to the inverter is not shut off by the battery cutoff switch. However, the wire to the inverter had worked loose, and when I reached around to feel the connection, it came off in my hand. Now the battery draw is gone. So I think the loose wire was creating a short and as someone suggested, a breaker was tripping and resetting. I haven’t had time to reconnect it and be sure that it was the loose wire and not the inverter itself. I guess the silver lining is that I now have a rough wiring schematic of the camper for next time.

[whizbang]

All the suggestions so far are good.

Smoke and CO detectors are possibilities, although the current draw on these is pretty low (many last for a long time on 9V or AA batteries).

Sometimes the refrigerator control board is the culprit.

[mike_kellie]

Sorry Host couldn't help more. I fixed my problem (I think) tonight replacing the Zamp solar controller. My part came from Battery Systems on Bluebell off Coffey Lane. You might remember it as the old interstate battery place. They were very helpful and pretty knowledgeable. For me, they are now my first choice for 12 volt systems.
The local mobile rv tech guy passed away a couple years and I used him with some recall stuff. Not sure who took over the business. You can pm me with any questions. Again, welcome to the forum. We have met and now camp on the Sonoma Coast with fellow members. There is a lot of info out there and it's helped me plenty.

[Bedlam]

How many wires run off the positive side of the batteries? The thickest one should be for the generator starter solenoid and the next thickest for camper power distribution.

[jdeco01]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I hate electricity because it is all inference, since you can’t directly observe it. If I’m not mistaken, the breakers are for the 110 AC circuits, and they won’t cause a draw on the battery. There are also 12 fused 12V DC circuits in the panel for interior lights, etc., which all seem to be disconnected by the battery cutoff switch, so it won’t be those circuits. The Co2/LP detector has a light indicating when it is on it is on, which is turned off by the battery disconnect switch, and also I don’t think it would draw 1.5 amps if it were functioning correctly. The radio doesn’t come on with the battery cutoff switch off. The inerter doesn’t work with the battery cutoff switch off, so I assume (maybe erroneously) that it isn’t drawing any power. I probably don’t understand how circuit breakers work, but when the breaker tripped wouldn’t the battery drain stop until it reset, and then the drain would make it trip again? This drain is continuous until I measure it with my meter, and then it does away for a few minutes and then reappears. I’ve contracted Progressive Dynamics who make the converter, and they tell me that the converter has diodes and fuses which prevent it from creating a draw on the battery. I’ve emailed Host and received a reply from Randall Pozzi, General Manager, but it wasn’t much help. (I asked for the wiring plan they used when they built the camper and he responded that they never had one.) And I’ve received no reply to my second more detailed email asking some of my questions below. As I’m sure you all know, one problem is that camper electronics are, as we used to say in construction, “10 pounds of s**t in a 5 pound bag.” Really hard to access, no wires are labeled, etc. Anyone know anything about these two questions, which I also asked Host, which might help.

1. Where is the controller for the slide out motors? The wires for the switches which operate the slide outs seem to disappear into the unit in the area under the bathroom. You can’t see where they go through the (totally inadequate) access panel. I would like to be able to rule out that circuit by disconnecting the power to the controller. Or, where is the circuit breaker for the slide out controller?
2. As you look into the access panel below the camper door, on the left are two panel boards. The lower one controls the jacks. The battery draw remains even after the 12 volt and ground are disconnected from this panel board, so that’s not the problem. Above this panel board is another panel board. It has an upper and lower plug with numerous wires in each. Next to each plug is a plug in circuit breaker. There are also some other devices plugged into the panel board, but I’m not sure what they are, maybe relays. Of course, nothing is labeled. Can you give me any information about what circuits are controlled by each plug or the associated breakers or the other devices in the board?

Can anyone recommend an RV repair place in or near Santa Rosa, CA with a tech who is really good with RV electronics? I’d go as far as I need to for the right person (not right away though, I’m off in my trailer for some trout fishing next week.) And yes, that is my Host in the storage yard off Santa Rosa Ave.

[32_Chev]

I know some Refrigerators draw 2 amps even when not turned on.

[enblethen]

Draw could be through the charge system from the truck. Diode based isolator?

[Photomike]

A few things that can cause a draw (some already mentioned) some even when they are off ....

- Smoke/co detectors
- TV's & DVD players with instant on
- Radios, not only ones with clocks but with other features that may look like they are off but still be running to maintain memory/features.
- Inverters
- Battery / solar monitors

I do wonder if some of the appliances like fridges, hot water tanks, generators do not pull a small phantom draw. Each on there own would be minimal but together could add up.

I think the best advice is to pull your fuses and then check for the draw, that will isolate the accessories and only leave the line from the battery to the charging/power center.

[ab257]

My Host has a fuse panel for the 12V. Can you pull a fuse and put an ammeter across it to see which circuit is drawing?

Turning off the battery disconnect kills my CO monitors, but doesn't affect the solar panel controller. Perhaps put an ammeter on that line at the battery at night when there is no power coming in (if you have solar).

[jimh406]

dcg9381 wrote:
You need a meter. Last 3 RVs that I've owned all had varying degrees of parasitic draw.

Nope, I don't need a meter. If you reread my post, I didn't say there wasn't any draw. I said significant draw.

I've had my TC just shy of 10 years, and I can tell you that the batteries stay charged enough that I can run the electric jacks after it sits for months as long as the disconnect is off. That's close enough to off for me.

[Bedlam]

I have seen failing rectifiers/chargers draw parasitic loads when off even though they still function when powered. You need to isolate any items that are before your cut-off switch otherwise you may have wire chafing that will only get worse with more travel.

[slickrock_steve]

If you have an inverter, you may have a draw from the inverter trying to make sure you have 110 current when you want it.

[kohldad]

My bet would be the generator is the culprit.

You are doing it right by eliminating the circuits one by one.

[dcg9381]

jimh425 wrote:
I can tell you my 2006 Host doesn't drain the battery significantly if the battery disconnect is off.

You need a meter. Last 3 RVs that I've owned all had varying degrees of parasitic draw. I assume that it's related to liability created if they actually turn off C02 detectors.

The factory battery "disconnect" is a misnomer. It's a "disconnect some stuff".

Install a real disconnect, it'll likely save you a lot of hassle.