โMar-02-2015 05:07 AM
โMar-03-2015 04:09 AM
myredracer wrote:
Whatever you end up doing, I recommend against connecting #10 solid wire directly to the lugs of the EMS and only use stranded. This is a photo of our EMS before I changed to stranded. You can see that the solid wire only contacts flat (or near flat) surfaces of the lugs on two opposite sides of the round copper #10 wire and IMO does not provide enough surface contact area between the wire and lug. I have read of a number of instances of an EMS overheating and in some cases, a fire and I suspect that the design of the lug could be a factor when terminating solid wire.
The better way to terminate the incoming #10 wire (shore power) is to use stranded and if needed, you can splice a short lengths of stranded to solid inside the EMS. For splicing stranded to copper, I recommend using vibration resistant wire connectors as they make a more reliable connection.
You could run stranded #10 from the EMS to detachable cord outlet using a length of your old cord.
FWIW, I also converted to a detachable shore power cord (on a previous TT) and ended with an empty box where the cord used to get shoved into. Turned it into much needed extra storage space which was a nice bonus to the project.
โMar-03-2015 01:32 AM
โMar-02-2015 05:15 PM
โMar-02-2015 08:13 AM
dmullen wrote:
When installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C are there any negatives to completely removing the heavy shore power cable and just use romex from the plug to the input of the EMS and then wire in the existing romex to the output? It would make for a much easier and cleaner looking install not having to deal with that black cable.
I could remove the metal box as well and just set the EMS there could I not?
โMar-02-2015 07:48 AM
'tiredTeacher wrote:dmullen wrote:
I wanted to use Romex instead of the black shore cable on the input side and was wondering if there is anything negative about doing it that way.
So ... you want to go from the pedestal to the EMS with Romex, right?
If this is a permanent site, go ahead. If you are touring, the Romex will be a PITA to roll up and store. Also, it is not designed to be flexed over and over.
I don't understand why you want to do this. Why is attaching the flexible shore power cord to the EMS a problem for you? Why would you not want to keep the power cord designed to do the job on the job?
Teach
โMar-02-2015 07:33 AM
dmullen wrote:
When installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C are there any negatives to completely removing the heavy shore power cable and just use romex from the plug to the input of the EMS and then wire in the existing romex to the output? It would make for a much easier and cleaner looking install not having to deal with that black cable.
I could remove the metal box as well and just set the EMS there could I not?
โMar-02-2015 07:33 AM
dmullen wrote:
I wanted to use Romex instead of the black shore cable on the input side and was wondering if there is anything negative about doing it that way.
โMar-02-2015 07:30 AM
โMar-02-2015 07:29 AM
rjxj wrote:dmullen wrote:rjxj wrote:
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.
If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?
Please pardon my ignorance, run longer extension cords where?
People will sometimes end up running extra long cords from the RV to the power pole or over the neighbor 2 doors down the street. I'm only asking because a person could ask what size wire should I use and I could say the chart says use 10 gauge for 30 amps but it's not addressing the issue of length. Not being a smart A just explaining. If you are just going to use the power cord at it's normal 25 foot length it will be fine.
If you were to say well I may want to run 100 ft of additional cords at my cabin etc, we would be saying that you probably need to use 8 gauge through the whole system and go with a 50 amp furrion etc. See what I'm saying?
โMar-02-2015 07:23 AM
dmullen wrote:rjxj wrote:
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.
If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?
Please pardon my ignorance, run longer extension cords where?
โMar-02-2015 07:23 AM
spike99 wrote:
To install Progressive Dynamics EMS 30 Amp "hardwire" device, I would simply remove the factory galvanized junction box and replace with EMS unit. And, apply fasteners to secure EMS to floor and wire fastener hold downs < 8" from the EMS box as well. A really good video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CSg2ryqE7U
Within YouTube, I'm sure other good videos under same "RV Surge Protector Install" text as well.
Note: If uncomfortable with electrical wiring, do ask a certified electrician to install instead. Very easy - especially since you can tow the job to them.
Hope this helps.
โMar-02-2015 07:16 AM
rjxj wrote:
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.
If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?
โMar-02-2015 07:11 AM
โMar-02-2015 07:10 AM
Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow
โMar-02-2015 07:05 AM