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EMS Installation Question

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
When installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C are there any negatives to completely removing the heavy shore power cable and just use romex from the plug to the input of the EMS and then wire in the existing romex to the output? It would make for a much easier and cleaner looking install not having to deal with that black cable.

I could remove the metal box as well and just set the EMS there could I not?
38 REPLIES 38

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
myredracer wrote:
Whatever you end up doing, I recommend against connecting #10 solid wire directly to the lugs of the EMS and only use stranded. This is a photo of our EMS before I changed to stranded. You can see that the solid wire only contacts flat (or near flat) surfaces of the lugs on two opposite sides of the round copper #10 wire and IMO does not provide enough surface contact area between the wire and lug. I have read of a number of instances of an EMS overheating and in some cases, a fire and I suspect that the design of the lug could be a factor when terminating solid wire.

The better way to terminate the incoming #10 wire (shore power) is to use stranded and if needed, you can splice a short lengths of stranded to solid inside the EMS. For splicing stranded to copper, I recommend using vibration resistant wire connectors as they make a more reliable connection.

You could run stranded #10 from the EMS to detachable cord outlet using a length of your old cord.

FWIW, I also converted to a detachable shore power cord (on a previous TT) and ended with an empty box where the cord used to get shoved into. Turned it into much needed extra storage space which was a nice bonus to the project.




That's interesting. Every connector in my house panel from 15 to 60 amp uses a screw connector with solid wire.

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Whatever you end up doing, I recommend against connecting #10 solid wire directly to the lugs of the EMS and only use stranded. This is a photo of our EMS before I changed to stranded. You can see that the solid wire only contacts flat (or near flat) surfaces of the lugs on two opposite sides of the round copper #10 wire and IMO does not provide enough surface contact area between the wire and lug. I have read of a number of instances of an EMS overheating and in some cases, a fire and I suspect that the design of the lug could be a factor when terminating solid wire.

The better way to terminate the incoming #10 wire (shore power) is to use stranded and if needed, you can splice a short lengths of stranded to solid inside the EMS. For splicing stranded to copper, I recommend using vibration resistant wire connectors as they make a more reliable connection.

You could run stranded #10 from the EMS to detachable cord outlet using a length of your old cord.

FWIW, I also converted to a detachable shore power cord (on a previous TT) and ended with an empty box where the cord used to get shoved into. Turned it into much needed extra storage space which was a nice bonus to the project.

GrandpaKip
Explorer II
Explorer II
OK. Gotcha. Get rid of the mouse hole, install a detachable shore cord. It should be no problem using 10 romex to the EMS, then to distibution center, as long as there are no areas where flex can occur(this work hardens copper, leading to breaks). I got rid of my mouse hole also, but used Marinco (Park Power) because it's made in US.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch

djsamuel
Nomad
Nomad
dmullen wrote:
When installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C are there any negatives to completely removing the heavy shore power cable and just use romex from the plug to the input of the EMS and then wire in the existing romex to the output? It would make for a much easier and cleaner looking install not having to deal with that black cable.

I could remove the metal box as well and just set the EMS there could I not?


That is pretty much how I installed mine; which has worked well.

2013 Camplite 21BHS Trailer, Ram 1500 Tow Vehicle

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
'tiredTeacher wrote:
dmullen wrote:
I wanted to use Romex instead of the black shore cable on the input side and was wondering if there is anything negative about doing it that way.

So ... you want to go from the pedestal to the EMS with Romex, right?
If this is a permanent site, go ahead. If you are touring, the Romex will be a PITA to roll up and store. Also, it is not designed to be flexed over and over.
I don't understand why you want to do this. Why is attaching the flexible shore power cord to the EMS a problem for you? Why would you not want to keep the power cord designed to do the job on the job?

Teach


I am not wanting to use Romex from the pedestal to the trailer. I have a normal black power cord for that. Instead of pulling the power cord out of the mouse hole on the side of the camper I replaced it with an outlet so now all I have to do is plug in the power cord on the outside. Marinco & Furrion both make these shore power conversion kits. The point of my thread is the wiring from the back of that outlet to the EMS to the convertor.

4X4Dodger
Explorer II
Explorer II
dmullen wrote:
When installing a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C are there any negatives to completely removing the heavy shore power cable and just use romex from the plug to the input of the EMS and then wire in the existing romex to the output? It would make for a much easier and cleaner looking install not having to deal with that black cable.

I could remove the metal box as well and just set the EMS there could I not?


I would stick with the cable. It has several advantages: The biggest is it's very well protected. And I would attach the terminated wires to a terminal block with ring lugs and use that as my connection point. The terminal block could be mounted inside a weather proof junction box, Plastic not metal. On those ring lugs I would use heat shrink at the barrel ends to keep moisture out and corrosion at bay.

This will allow much easier access if you need to disconnect the system at some future point.

Good Luck

_tiredTeacher
Explorer II
Explorer II
dmullen wrote:
I wanted to use Romex instead of the black shore cable on the input side and was wondering if there is anything negative about doing it that way.

So ... you want to go from the pedestal to the EMS with Romex, right?
If this is a permanent site, go ahead. If you are touring, the Romex will be a PITA to roll up and store. Also, it is not designed to be flexed over and over.
I don't understand why you want to do this. Why is attaching the flexible shore power cord to the EMS a problem for you? Why would you not want to keep the power cord designed to do the job on the job?

Teach
Wright and Penny
2010 Tundra 4X4
2014 Rockwood 2604WS
"Life is a cruel teacher. She gives the test first; the lesson then follows."

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
I ran 10 g romex between my EMS/transfer/ panel. I also use about 20 feet of 8g flex cable and another 20 ft of 10 gauge flex cable to get out to my generator when I'm not hitched to the rig. It works fine for me, no heat or voltage drop.

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
rjxj wrote:
dmullen wrote:
rjxj wrote:
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.

If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?


Please pardon my ignorance, run longer extension cords where?


People will sometimes end up running extra long cords from the RV to the power pole or over the neighbor 2 doors down the street. I'm only asking because a person could ask what size wire should I use and I could say the chart says use 10 gauge for 30 amps but it's not addressing the issue of length. Not being a smart A just explaining. If you are just going to use the power cord at it's normal 25 foot length it will be fine.

If you were to say well I may want to run 100 ft of additional cords at my cabin etc, we would be saying that you probably need to use 8 gauge through the whole system and go with a 50 amp furrion etc. See what I'm saying?


Got it. I'll just be using the power cord at normal length. Thanks for the explanation. This thread is very educational for me!

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
dmullen wrote:
rjxj wrote:
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.

If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?


Please pardon my ignorance, run longer extension cords where?


People will sometimes end up running extra long cords from the RV to the power pole or over the neighbor 2 doors down the street. I'm only asking because a person could ask what size wire should I use and I could say the chart says use 10 gauge for 30 amps but it's not addressing the issue of length. Not being a smart A just explaining. If you are just going to use the power cord at it's normal 25 foot length it will be fine.

If you were to say well I may want to run 100 ft of additional cords at my cabin etc, we would be saying that you probably need to use 8 gauge through the whole system and go with a 50 amp furrion etc. See what I'm saying?

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
spike99 wrote:
To install Progressive Dynamics EMS 30 Amp "hardwire" device, I would simply remove the factory galvanized junction box and replace with EMS unit. And, apply fasteners to secure EMS to floor and wire fastener hold downs < 8" from the EMS box as well. A really good video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CSg2ryqE7U

Within YouTube, I'm sure other good videos under same "RV Surge Protector Install" text as well.

Note: If uncomfortable with electrical wiring, do ask a certified electrician to install instead. Very easy - especially since you can tow the job to them.

Hope this helps.


Thanks for the link. That video is very similar to how I want to do my installation only I wanted to use Romex instead of the black shore cable on the input side and was wondering if there is anything negative about doing it that way.

dmullen
Explorer
Explorer
rjxj wrote:
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.

If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?


Please pardon my ignorance, run longer extension cords where?

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
Chart says 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran 10 g for 30 amps. The factory ran solid wire all over inside for non moving non flexing areas.

If you want to get into much longer extension cords you may want to increase the conductor size all the way through. Are you going to run longer cords?

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
My only reason to upgrade is that #8 is stranded.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

spike99
Explorer
Explorer
To install Progressive Dynamics EMS 30 Amp "hardwire" device, I would simply remove the factory galvanized junction box and replace with EMS unit. And, apply fasteners to secure EMS to floor and wire fastener hold downs < 8" from the EMS box as well. A really good video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CSg2ryqE7U

Within YouTube, I'm sure other good videos under same "RV Surge Protector Install" text as well.

Note: If uncomfortable with electrical wiring, do ask a certified electrician to install instead. Very easy - especially since you can tow the job to them.

Hope this helps.