Ford F350 2003 - issues?

[phemens]

A neighbor has a Ford F-350 2003 6.0 diesel with 50,000 miles on it that he is selling. He used it as a 2nd vehicle, no major wear on it and it looks like he took care of it. I am considering it, as we want to eventually move up to a 5'er and our Suburban has 140,000 miles on it.
Any significant issues that I should keep an eye out for? I will be checking the VIN and getting a garage inspection, but if there are major flags with this model year, I'll say thanks but no thanks up front.

[shadows4]

tim and amy wrote:
I will start by saying this, the people on this forum who have NEVER OWNED A 6.0L ford are not the people to be asking.

99% of these posters are talking out of their collective rear ends. The Ford 6.0L problems are blown way out of proportion.
So I will fill you in on the truth, and avoid the hear say BS that keeps getting posted here time and time again.

1. The 2003 is the first year of the 6.0L. Notes of Head gasket failures, Head Bolt failures and such are all related to the EGR cooler of that year. The main issue was, many people would not perform the recommended maintenance and pull the EGR out for a cleaning. When the EGR is not cleaned, the soot plugs the EGR and does not allow the exhaust gas to flow through the EGR cooler, instead it just builds up heat. The EGR cooler is a heat exchanger of Hot Exhaust gasses and the Engine coolant. That gas would boil the coolant and pop head gaskets or head bolts. The coolers were replaced or upgraded by Ford. The most common thing to do, is spend $100.00 and replace the EGR cooler or eliminate it with an EGR Bypass kit.

2. Casting Sand Rumors. There is some discussion of if casting sand made it's way into the oil cooler. It isn't confirmed anywhere but it may have happened on some early 03 engines and the rumor ran away from there. Most guys who are doing EGR bypass kits, just replace the Oil cooler at the same time.

3. Turbo issues. This is pretty rare, and those who say they have had turbo issues, should probably find a new mechanic. The turbo is a variable vane turbo built by Garrett. They are VERY easy to work on. You can pull the turbo out, tear it down and rebuild it your self for under $100.00. The only thing that ruins these turbos are soot build up and if some moron removes the Air Filter, sucking dirt and sand into the impeller.

Now, you notice a pattern here with the word "soot". A stock 6.0L engine does not produce much if any soot. My truck has 100K miles on it, it is an 04. I just did the EGR delete and pulled, tore the turbo down for inspection. Both were clean as a whistle and so was the EGR cooler and down pipe. My F350 doesn't even puff smoke out the tail pipe. Soot build up is dependent on the Fuel quality and if someone is running a tuner that is dumping mass amounts of fuel into the engine.

I am a member of Power stroke.com where we discuss these engines and trucks in great detail. The common factor of 6.0L failures are lack of maintenance and guys tuning the engines.

The 6.0L engine is not designed to be tuned without some sort of mods being done. The engine is already tuned pretty high in stock form for the specifications it was built at.
Now, diesel of any type are not cheap to work on. But they are very simple to work on if you have a laptop and a cable to plug into the diag port. For $200.00 you can buy the SW and cable, which basically you would never have to visit a mechanic if you normally know how to work on cars.
I have only had one problem with my F350 and it was the ICP sensor, basically a $100 part that monitor the fuel pressure. That's it. Yes I tow with my truck and it was my daily driver until two weeks ago.

I also want to point out, the 7.3 trucks have the garbage transmissions. So good engine, but bad transmission. Also you need to be careful of which 7.3 engine the truck has. You want to make sure it is a "powerstoke" 7.3. not the IDI 7.3L.


Don't believe what you hear on this forum about the 6.0L trucks, how many do you see on the side of the road?? I drive one, so I pay attention to this.

It's like anything else, you maintain it, and it will not give you any trouble.
My advice on 6.0L trucks. EGR bypass, 5" exhaust to reduce EGT's, change oil at 7k-10k miles per the manual. Don't idle the truck for long periods of time. If towing heavy, let the turbo cool down by idling the engine before shutting it off "should be done on all Turbo powered engines".
Do not install any tuning devices. Do NOT remove the Ford Air Filter and replace for K&N or such. The Ford Element filter, although expensive is a direct copy of what Semi's use and IS the highest flowing air filter on the market.

X2 As you can see by my sig I have a 03' 7.3. If the price is right I wouldn't be afraid of a 6.0. Just do your research a few simple mods and you will have an awesome truck. Good luck, John

[dave17352]

tim and amy wrote:
I will start by saying this, the people on this forum who have NEVER OWNED A 6.0L ford are not the people to be asking.

99% of these posters are talking out of their collective rear ends. The Ford 6.0L problems are blown way out of proportion.
So I will fill you in on the truth, and avoid the hear say BS that keeps getting posted here time and time again.

1. The 2003 is the first year of the 6.0L. Notes of Head gasket failures, Head Bolt failures and such are all related to the EGR cooler of that year. The main issue was, many people would not perform the recommended maintenance and pull the EGR out for a cleaning. When the EGR is not cleaned, the soot plugs the EGR and does not allow the exhaust gas to flow through the EGR cooler, instead it just builds up heat. The EGR cooler is a heat exchanger of Hot Exhaust gasses and the Engine coolant. That gas would boil the coolant and pop head gaskets or head bolts. The coolers were replaced or upgraded by Ford. The most common thing to do, is spend $100.00 and replace the EGR cooler or eliminate it with an EGR Bypass kit.

2. Casting Sand Rumors. There is some discussion of if casting sand made it's way into the oil cooler. It isn't confirmed anywhere but it may have happened on some early 03 engines and the rumor ran away from there. Most guys who are doing EGR bypass kits, just replace the Oil cooler at the same time.

3. Turbo issues. This is pretty rare, and those who say they have had turbo issues, should probably find a new mechanic. The turbo is a variable vane turbo built by Garrett. They are VERY easy to work on. You can pull the turbo out, tear it down and rebuild it your self for under $100.00. The only thing that ruins these turbos are soot build up and if some moron removes the Air Filter, sucking dirt and sand into the impeller.

Now, you notice a pattern here with the word "soot". A stock 6.0L engine does not produce much if any soot. My truck has 100K miles on it, it is an 04. I just did the EGR delete and pulled, tore the turbo down for inspection. Both were clean as a whistle and so was the EGR cooler and down pipe. My F350 doesn't even puff smoke out the tail pipe. Soot build up is dependent on the Fuel quality and if someone is running a tuner that is dumping mass amounts of fuel into the engine.

I am a member of Power stroke.com where we discuss these engines and trucks in great detail. The common factor of 6.0L failures are lack of maintenance and guys tuning the engines.

The 6.0L engine is not designed to be tuned without some sort of mods being done. The engine is already tuned pretty high in stock form for the specifications it was built at.
Now, diesel of any type are not cheap to work on. But they are very simple to work on if you have a laptop and a cable to plug into the diag port. For $200.00 you can buy the SW and cable, which basically you would never have to visit a mechanic if you normally know how to work on cars.
I have only had one problem with my F350 and it was the ICP sensor, basically a $100 part that monitor the fuel pressure. That's it. Yes I tow with my truck and it was my daily driver until two weeks ago.

I also want to point out, the 7.3 trucks have the garbage transmissions. So good engine, but bad transmission. Also you need to be careful of which 7.3 engine the truck has. You want to make sure it is a "powerstoke" 7.3. not the IDI 7.3L.


Don't believe what you hear on this forum about the 6.0L trucks, how many do you see on the side of the road?? I drive one, so I pay attention to this.

It's like anything else, you maintain it, and it will not give you any trouble.
My advice on 6.0L trucks. EGR bypass, 5" exhaust to reduce EGT's, change oil at 7k-10k miles per the manual. Don't idle the truck for long periods of time. If towing heavy, let the turbo cool down by idling the engine before shutting it off "should be done on all Turbo powered engines".
Do not install any tuning devices. Do NOT remove the Ford Air Filter and replace for K&N or such. The Ford Element filter, although expensive is a direct copy of what Semi's use and IS the highest flowing air filter on the market.

I am sure there are some good ones. But I did all the factory maintenance on my 05 6.0. Everything they told me to do. As a matter of fact I had a ford dealership do it all. First EGR cooler then head gaskets at about 60k. There were a couple other things I can't really remember as I am not a mechanic and don't claim any real knowledge on the subject. It was by far the most unreliable new truck I ever have owned and I have had many.

So yes I have owned one and had very poor luck with it.

[tim_and_amy]

I will start by saying this, the people on this forum who have NEVER OWNED A 6.0L ford are not the people to be asking.

99% of these posters are talking out of their collective rear ends. The Ford 6.0L problems are blown way out of proportion.
So I will fill you in on the truth, and avoid the hear say BS that keeps getting posted here time and time again.

1. The 2003 is the first year of the 6.0L. Notes of Head gasket failures, Head Bolt failures and such are all related to the EGR cooler of that year. The main issue was, many people would not perform the recommended maintenance and pull the EGR out for a cleaning. When the EGR is not cleaned, the soot plugs the EGR and does not allow the exhaust gas to flow through the EGR cooler, instead it just builds up heat. The EGR cooler is a heat exchanger of Hot Exhaust gasses and the Engine coolant. That gas would boil the coolant and pop head gaskets or head bolts. The coolers were replaced or upgraded by Ford. The most common thing to do, is spend $100.00 and replace the EGR cooler or eliminate it with an EGR Bypass kit.

2. Casting Sand Rumors. There is some discussion of if casting sand made it's way into the oil cooler. It isn't confirmed anywhere but it may have happened on some early 03 engines and the rumor ran away from there. Most guys who are doing EGR bypass kits, just replace the Oil cooler at the same time.

3. Turbo issues. This is pretty rare, and those who say they have had turbo issues, should probably find a new mechanic. The turbo is a variable vane turbo built by Garrett. They are VERY easy to work on. You can pull the turbo out, tear it down and rebuild it your self for under $100.00. The only thing that ruins these turbos are soot build up and if some moron removes the Air Filter, sucking dirt and sand into the impeller.

Now, you notice a pattern here with the word "soot". A stock 6.0L engine does not produce much if any soot. My truck has 100K miles on it, it is an 04. I just did the EGR delete and pulled, tore the turbo down for inspection. Both were clean as a whistle and so was the EGR cooler and down pipe. My F350 doesn't even puff smoke out the tail pipe. Soot build up is dependent on the Fuel quality and if someone is running a tuner that is dumping mass amounts of fuel into the engine.

I am a member of Power stroke.com where we discuss these engines and trucks in great detail. The common factor of 6.0L failures are lack of maintenance and guys tuning the engines.

The 6.0L engine is not designed to be tuned without some sort of mods being done. The engine is already tuned pretty high in stock form for the specifications it was built at.
Now, diesel of any type are not cheap to work on. But they are very simple to work on if you have a laptop and a cable to plug into the diag port. For $200.00 you can buy the SW and cable, which basically you would never have to visit a mechanic if you normally know how to work on cars.
I have only had one problem with my F350 and it was the ICP sensor, basically a $100 part that monitor the fuel pressure. That's it. Yes I tow with my truck and it was my daily driver until two weeks ago.

I also want to point out, the 7.3 trucks have the garbage transmissions. So good engine, but bad transmission. Also you need to be careful of which 7.3 engine the truck has. You want to make sure it is a "powerstoke" 7.3. not the IDI 7.3L.


Don't believe what you hear on this forum about the 6.0L trucks, how many do you see on the side of the road?? I drive one, so I pay attention to this.

It's like anything else, you maintain it, and it will not give you any trouble.
My advice on 6.0L trucks. EGR bypass, 5" exhaust to reduce EGT's, change oil at 7k-10k miles per the manual. Don't idle the truck for long periods of time. If towing heavy, let the turbo cool down by idling the engine before shutting it off "should be done on all Turbo powered engines".
Do not install any tuning devices. Do NOT remove the Ford Air Filter and replace for K&N or such. The Ford Element filter, although expensive is a direct copy of what Semi's use and IS the highest flowing air filter on the market.

[TXiceman]

The 4R100 was not that bad of a transmission behind the 7.3L If you tried to push too much power with a chipped 7.3L, it was not designed for that much power. You can help the 4R100 by adding a large stacked plate transmission oil cooler, use synthetic oil and install a heavier torque converter.

If the 2003 is a 7.3L, that is great find,especially with low mileage.

Ken

[45Ricochet]

Vulcaneer wrote:
The 7.3L is a 180 degrees better than the 6.0L. But just remember the 7.3 is pretty old technology. As in much weaker by todays standards, and the transmission is also not up to todays standards. This doesn't make it a bad truck. And for your smaller/lighter 5'r it will be just great. But could be limited for future and heavier towing needs.

X2
We still have plenty of 7.3's running around here, 6.0 seems to be parked for extended periods. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you. Heck a 7.3 with 50K miles is a nice find especially if it was garaged.

[Vulcaneer]

The 7.3L is a 180 degrees better than the 6.0L. But just remember the 7.3 is pretty old technology. As in much weaker by todays standards, and the transmission is also not up to todays standards. This doesn't make it a bad truck. And for your smaller/lighter 5'r it will be just great. But could be limited for future and heavier towing needs.

[phemens]

Good to know, thanks!

[spud1957]

phemens wrote:
Thanks to all for the very valuable feedback, once again this forum is a great resource!
I'll be talking with him this morning to verify the engine - if it's a 6.0 I'll be walking. If it's a 7.3 then I'll probably go for it. He's a neighbor down the street, don't know him very well, but he takes care of all of his stuff, which is a good sign to me.

Quick way to tell if it's a 6.0 or 7.3 is the Powerstroke emblem on the door. The 7.3 has a black background and the 6.0 has a silver background.

[phemens]

Thanks to all for the very valuable feedback, once again this forum is a great resource!
I'll be talking with him this morning to verify the engine - if it's a 6.0 I'll be walking. If it's a 7.3 then I'll probably go for it. He's a neighbor down the street, don't know him very well, but he takes care of all of his stuff, which is a good sign to me.

[rhagfo]

wcjeep wrote:

southernsky wrote:
Don't walk away......"R U N"

You may come to blame the neighbor for selling you the truck. The 6.0 problems are well documented.

X2
Don't buy a 2003 6.0 from a neighbor/Friend!! Could be a quick way to end a great friendship.

No not all bad, but an 03 at 50,000 mile is out of warranty, there could be some big cost in the future. It may go to 200,000 with out an issue, but unless you have a big bank roll to fund repairs, I would keep looking.

[Cummins12V98]

phemens wrote:
Ouch. Thanks for the very valuable feedback! Would there be any reason to assume that if he hasn't had any major issues for 50k miles (80k KM here)that this particular truck might have escaped intact? I'm going to do a full check on it whether I would pull the trigger or not.
I'm grasping at straws, but the price is pretty attractive...

I really don't care what the price may be I would not set my self up for some possible major problems! I would also say I would trust your Suburban on a coast to coast trip with RV attached more than the Ford!

[wcjeep]

southernsky wrote:
Don't walk away......"R U N"

You may come to blame the neighbor for selling you the truck. The 6.0 problems are well documented.

[Ivylog]

If the price is right, it's not a 7.3.

[pawatt]

Lots of problems with my 6.0 too.

[ib516]

If its a 7.3L its a much better truck.