Got my first Truck Camper and Need tips from you pros...

[SUPERCHARGE]

Just Hauled my new truck camper through a 3 hour drive. I'm a younger guy, good with tools, got myself a decent, yet inexpensive truck camper to pull on LONG trips. I'm an explorer during my days off. So, I have quite a few questions since I want to make sure my Camper and truck are as stable, safe and comfortable as possible during my long trips. The guy I bought it from hardly knew anything about them, or about how to installs these himself so I have almost no Proper idea. Have a bunch of questions, so you peeps can just answer the ones you want,lol. Thanks.



First off, to secure, I have the Hold Down type clamps. Problem is, although the Camper fits with my gate down, the rear brackets on the camper itself are way towards the back, for an 8 footer, but where my truck's sidewall doesn't reach( since it's a 6.6 footer). The rear tensioners would almost have to be secured at a large angle. But the nature of the clamps seem to require the tension to come straight up. By the marks on the camper, seems like previous owners had the same issue and had them tied down at an angle. Is this a wise idea to do this and then maybe to secure even more with straps and chains in case? Or are there better methods?



Second thing, Camper fitment into the box. How much space should there be ideally between the camper and top of the sidewalls? Seems like the Camper has some slight damage or markings underneath from touching the brackets, so should I put anything underneath to protect it like rubber matt pieces?



Third: My truck itself. 1500 series, No problem pulling or stopping. Truck is used to hauling much heavier. BUT, lying directly onto the truck, the suspension has sunk near its limit and often touching the large Rubber Dampner on large bumps. Should I waste time getting stronger leafs springs, or those stabilizing balloons? Or both? Anything else or tips you guys recommend?

[campn4walleye]

You keep saying "pulling". Pulling is towing...hauling is payload. They are 2 very different #s.

What is your payload? Weigh the truck, weigh the rig.

Go to TC university and put your #s in the truck camper calculator. It will help guide you to the appropriate combo.

We learned all of this this trying to put a 4300# TC on a 3500SRW.

[mkirsch]

Tiedowns should be somewhat diagonal. They not only hold the camper from going up and down, but also forwards and backwards, and side to side.

If you put the tiedowns perfectly straight up and down they will not hold the camper from sliding around in the bed.

[Jaxom]

Well it seems that West Coast is mfg'd by Okanagan?!?! They have a model 80W that is designed for either LB or SB trucks. Maybe similar specs?

Still a picture of the West Coast camper sitting on your truck would be helpful.
Good Luck.

[nycsteve]

Sounds like a plan, verify its OK on a shortbox, then get an actual scale weight ,TC on,TC off. Add appropriate #s for equipment and gear and see what your dealing with. But if its a long bed camper your cooked.

[SUPERCHARGE]

Ok, haven't replied because I've been busy getting info. Thanks for replying guys. I have some info for you guys on the trailer and truck. Thing I noticed... the wheel well marks on the camper clearly told me that the camper was being used on a bed slightly shorter than mine in the past. So I got in contact with the guy who sold it to me to see what was going on here. He bought, and stored it in his barn, but never really used it, from his friend who was the only other owner. I called his friend, an older guy.

Told me that he used the camper on a 2500 series ford 6.5 foot box and even on a 2001 Silverado 1500HD crew cab with a very SHORt (5.5ft) box. Says (not sure how true) it was originally made for a 6.5 or an 8ft. Says brackets are diagonal, not in line with the anchors to give it more tension. Again, this is what he was saying, not necessarily true, but he certainly used it like this.

At any rate, trailer tag:
built by West Coast leisure homes limited
model: IM80W, serial 923515.
Camper mass 740kg with standard equipment including 77L of water, 18kg bottled gas, 85L refrigerator.
Center of weight marker is about 3/4 to 1 foot in front of the rear wheel on my truck.

As for the truck, keep in mind guys, i'm new to carrying heavy, but not to pulling heavy. Truck is a higher end 1500, rated to pull 8700lbs, and because of the fact that I used to often pull heavy loads, I installed well rated, taller oversized tires for the job and have a lower gear ratio and crossbars to strengthen the frame. Brake and power I'm not worried about because I pull much much heavier, and could barely feel the thing affect power or braking.

But I am worried about stability and control, so maybe someone can tell me by the model if this thing really is meant for a 6.5 foot box. And, if it is, I'll go and have it weighed, loaded, as you guys suggested to see if it is within reason. If it is, then doesn't it make sense just to upgrade the suspension? Or are you all still against that notion? Selling and re-buying is a very last resort. i like my custom truck. 5.3l engine, Have it upgraded and have a several tunes with hardware, one making it capable of doing 24mpg on the highway. 2500 series won't pull those figures

[campn4walleye]

DH thinks this guy is joking around and trying to get the forum spun up. It has been a long winter. 🙂

Maybe he a (is the term "troll")?

If not, he probably won't be back. We scared him.

[homefor2]

You are getting good advice from experienced people. The right answer here is wrong truck or camper. If you have any concern for your safety or that of others, change the truck or the camper. Sorry but you made a bad choice.

[handye9]

SUPERCHARGE wrote:
Well, trailer weighs 1648 lb. Payload on my truck is 1800. Maybe my springs are worn. But ok, clearly I need to upgrade my springs or get another leaf if i'm sagging. I don't want a trailer. Too costly, too restricted on long hauls and much less comfortable to tow. Did amazing mileage in three hrs when bringing it. No point in another truck, suspension upgrades aren't that hard. just wondered if people could point out what ooption would be preferable.

If you got that 1648 number from some type of tag or decal on the camper, it could be very inaccurate.

Your payload number is capacity for total weight of everything and everybody, you put in or on the truck. When you put 4 - 500 lbs of fuel, driver, and passengers in the truck, your payload is reduced by that same amount.

If the 1800 payload and 1648 camper numbers are accurate, you only have 152 lbs of payload left, for fuel, driver, passengers, or cargo. I suspect, the camper is considerably heavier than 1648, and, you are over weight without adding fuel, driver, passengers, or cargo.

The ID tag on my camper says, with water and propane on board, it weighs 1875 lbs. It's actual weight is no where close to that.

Last trip, I stopped by a CAT scale and found my actual loaded for camping weight, is 3300 lbs.

Suspension upgrades, do not make up for being overloaded. They only make the truck sit a little more level while it is overloaded.

Your GVWR and payload numbers are based on several factors. Suspension is only one of them. You also need to consider brakes, tires, frame, powertrain, and drivetrain.

[nycsteve]

If you have a short bed truck with a 6' bed and your camper is made for a long bed 8' truck, you have NO option. The truck, regardless of camper weight and modifications is NOT appropriate for your camper. Period. So if this is the case discussion of weight and modifications are moot.
Sorry if this is whats your situation, but its fact. Maybe thats why the fellow who sold you the TC was so "clueless",or was he really? If you can, upgrade the truck, or downsize the camper.
Good luck on your desion. Eventually you'll work it all out and be a happy,safe camper. Oh, and welcome to the forum.

[Led_67]

Well you asked for advice and you are certainly getting it so here is my contribution.

First you need to go to Truck Camper University and scroll down to Camper Loading,Hauling,Tiedowns. Second Can I haul That is a great website tool that will assist you in determining what is and what is not correct.

Good Luck

[Bigfootchevy]

I am not a believer that 1/2 tons are made for truck Campers.

I had a 3/4 ton and had some of the problems like you stated, added extra springs and air bags. That fixed the problems with my suspension. Then all I need was higher rated rear tires.

Now I got a 1 ton and all my problems are solved.

Paul

[campn4walleye]

You don't say what TC you have. Did you weight it personally? I'll bet it's much heavier than you think, then add all the weight for gear, food, water, etc and you'll be 500-800 lbs heavier.

I'm no expert, but it is not safe to put that much weight on a 1500. This is exactly one of those occasions that you should have consulted this site BEFORE buying.

If you get into an accident, your insurance may choose not to not cover because you are WAY over weight.
Weigh your rig and then get back to the forum for more appropriate advice.

[mkirsch]

No, it's perfectly normal for a 1/2 ton truck to be on the bump stops at max payload. That's how they're designed.

The best thing to do is take it to a spring shop and have them recurve your stock springs back to stock, and add a leaf or two. It will be the strongest modification.

Really the choices are endless and there are no wrong answers to this. There are many home-installed "helper spring" style products on the market that all do the same thing in pretty much the same way.

Don't forget your tires. They have actual weight ratings written on them and you'd better adhere to them because when they say XXXXlbs, they mean XXXXlbs. You'd probably be best off upgrading to an LT type tire with a heavier load rating.

[camperpaul]

SUPERCHARGE wrote:


Well, trailer weighs 1648 lb. Payload on my truck is 1800.

Is that a TT or a TC?

If it is a TC and it weighs 1648 lbs and the payload for the truck is 1800 lbs, and you weigh more than 152 lbs your rig is overweight.

Add a few hundred lbs for your gear and ...